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Everything posted by Simon
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Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.
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Check the ground and power supply to the sensor is good.
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Make sure to change over the spark edge too for the K20 coils.
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Can we get a copy of the trigger scope and MAP the 1JZ sensors don't often give trouble.
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That is a much preferred signal. I would be focusing on the tooth after the gap and checking it is crossing zero at the higher RPM
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If the loom was a match for your application it might be. I would be wanting to check what that wire is connected to though.
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Your crank polarity is incorrect which can effect the dwell which then might damage the coils over time.
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Your trigger 2 pulse does not look correct for a Reluctor sensor as it is only showing positive spike. Can you try it set to Hall/opto with the pullup on and grab another trigger scope
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Given it only happens with the extra advance I'm relatively sure it is a cross fire issue. Which is then giving noise on the triggers causing the dwell to miscalculate. Only other bench test would be to spin up the distributor in a lathe or distributor graph machine to check how It responds with no load on the ignition.
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That is a little bit odd not sure what that would be doing it is not supposed to be there.
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The CAN on the G4 was not configurable unfortunately there is no way to add additional parameters
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You mention having an external MSD coil what igniter is being used to drive this coil? Can you also post a copy of you map/tune
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Yep just a case of re assigning the I/O to suit the wiring changes.
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There is no cuts or limiting out of the ECU so can rule out any limits. As CJ pointed out that ignition timing is odd and should be corrected. Fuel flow has been checked? Pump is running?
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That looks like the 12V supply to the injector is missing. Check at the injector plug you have a good 12V feed.
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If you can provide proof of purchase and the dealer details we can help. Email in to [email protected]
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You will need a non driven speed assigned but this can be the same input as the driven.
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The DBW has to be controlled via Aux 9 and 10 which are not wired on that board. It can be done but we would have to hand modify the board to suit.
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If you check the figures in the actual tables if they are all as they were you will have no issue.
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Yes they are identical to the MAC valve. PC Link tuning software > Help > Wiring Information > Miscellaneous Diagrams > Wastegate plumbing
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Can you get a PC log of all parameters as well.
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Subaru v3/4 crank trigger pattern with quad AVCS heads
Simon replied to plox's topic in Vi-PEC i Series
Nope that is not an issue. I would use the offset figure with the engine at 2000rpm on test. -
In the ECU is it giving a low battery voltage or only the errors you showed in the first post?
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Might be best to head back to the tuner as a first step. But post your map and take some logs and im sure there will be help available.