Simon

Yes this can be done the 4bar or 7 bar options being the easiest as they come in the same package as the 2.5

What happens if you are on open loop idle control? So that the requested throttle position is static?

Yep just a case of adjusting the staging figures to suit the changed ratio.

What ECU are you trying to wire the units up to?

Inlet cam is used the exhaust is not required.

Most likely a mistake during packaging missing putting one jumper in. Make sure it hasn't dropped off in the bag and might still be in there. The jumpers are relatively common and often used in PCs so a very good chance one can be found locally.

Only trims will be the cylinder ones if you have set it to trim cylinders individually. However if you only have one trim table and all cylinders assigned to it then it would operate as a global trim.

No resistor in the candash cable but it does have the TX and RX serial wires connected which will cause issues with the PC coms when connected.

You are on a monsoon so there is no setting it will always be lowside driven.

XU1 is the signal from the ESC, XU2 is the ground and XU3 is the power supply.

Same rules apply can only run USB or Serial not both together. However CAN and USB will work but must have no wires on the TX and RX pins on the same header.

Yep

We are finally at a point where we are back to a full team and have cleared the back log. The benefit of the forum though is there are a lot of clued up people and dealers such as Clint there to help.

For the black top then sub24new would be required sub toy 36 would suit the caldina 3SGE

Main bit will be having a non driven wheel speed input into the ECU. Then have a read through the PC link help file on all the options to get an understanding of what the settings do. Navigation: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Motorsport > Launch Control

You would need to assign a Di as anti theft and then have a switch or device (alarm) activate this.

Its a G1 LEM likely to be V1/2 vintage and likely to not be able to be tuned with PC. So will need a hand control. CAS will need to be modified to be 1 tooth per TDC and a single sync tooth.

Its unable to on a generic option. either tooth can be removed. Are you on a plugin unit or a wire in. One thing to consider on the plugin is that the Tacho signal is driven from the crank signal so if changing to a high tooth count you will need to move the Tacho signal on to a free AUX output.

Best bet would be to check with an external listening device. I suspect it is fine but you wont know unless confirming with another listing device.

Hi what ECU are you running, to have a working fuel gauge the plugin must be used in modeled fuel mode. Would need a Log and PCL file to advise more on the RPM issues

You will need to make sure that the relay (ecu controlled) only has power to the other side of the coil when the key is on. If you have a look at ECU back feeding in the help file it covers what is happening. Navigation: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Auxiliary Outputs > Wiring Auxiliary Outputs

On the V3/4 ECU ignition 1 and 2 are wired to 2 pins each and this makes for an easier conversion when used on a Legacy with single turbo conversion. And in this case you can run your four coils in wasted spark.

It sounds a lot like electrical noise. However are you able to take a PC log of all parameters and attach then we can take a look at what might be going on. As you are running wasted spark make 100% sure you plugs and leads are resistive.

If you are after the tune in the ECU just open PCLink and don't open a file first then connect to the ECU this will load the file from the ECU. Only issue will be if you have made changes off line and want to load back to the ECU.

Could you flick up the map as that's missing