Simon

Yes it is not specified in the pinout we supply but where there is a factory sensor it will be wired in the ECU. As a general rule the Bosch donut sensor seems to always give the best results on a vast range of engines.

Hi Lito With the plugin fitted there should be no way the factory ESP sould have an effect on the throttle position as the ECU has total control. I would actually expect the ESP to no longer function with the plugin fitted. Can you also post the PCL file from the ECU so we have a matching MAP to the log.

I have seen this and I think the issue was the conditions for engine fan 3 were being met. This caused the idle trim to activate even though there was no Aux out assigned as engine fan 3.

Yes the dead times would not need adjusting in either mode. The injector flow figures would need to be set for E85 as it will be different to petrol.

Either Digital can be wired to a speed input and then to match the example above would be assigned as LF wheel speed.

On testing this on the bench I think a better description of the crank hold time is the time that crank enrichment operates after the engine is above 400rpm and before post start enrichment starts.

For the manual cal you need to move the throttle plate by hand to fully open and fully closed to get the matching voltages. ·Manual Calibration - Type the sensor open and closed voltages into the TPS (Main) Closed, TPS (Main) Open, TPS (Sub) Closed and TPS (Sub) Open settings. The TP(sub) 100 setting must be set to the TP (Main) percent that TP (Sub) stops changing if a non linear sensor is used. If the TP (Sub) signal changes over the entire range of throttle plate movement (most common) then set TP(sub) 100 to 100%. Note: the sensor pin voltages can be seen in the Analog Inputs tab of the Runtime Values Window (press F12).

Yes would be the short answer but it likely easier to go for a proper wire in unit.

Woops it must have been pre coffee when I did my reply. Adam is on the money

Assuming you are using traditional mode then it is a simple case of adjusting the Master fuel value to a smaller figure

That unit is pre PC tuning so is going to be a hand control job.

If you try to run firmware update (this can be done with out PC link being able to connect) what happens? Also you could try powering the ECU up on the bench with just power and ground to see if that will let you connect.

Yeah the starter control is independent of the ECU so provided the Key / signal is present all will function as normal.

As far as I'm aware they are identical in the wiring.

From the ECU we do not supply power out of the USB so to have the tablet charging it would need either a dedicated power input (not USB) or the use of a adapter cable to allow one connection for power and the other for the data.

As far as we are aware the system would still stop the starter from operating but the ECU part of stopping the injection and ignition would be bypassed. If you were to set up a Di as an anti theft input then this could be implemented also.

You can also try to run the firmware update to see if it will go through. It could be a odd firmware not allowing connection in which case running the firmware update should be successful and then allow connection.

The ECU will be happiest with temp sensors that are a simple 2 wire variable resistance. For the pressure any 3 wire sensor with a 0-5 volt output.

Main things would be making sure the ECU has a full 12V supply and the green LED is coming on on the board. Check the CANPCB (200mm) cable is fully inserted in to the connector on the ECU and its terminals are seated correctly in the plug. Also make sure the ECU is showing in device manager and has no warnings.

If you kept around the 3.5-1.5 ohm range you would be good.

It will drive higher resistance injectors but at higher current. 2.4 ohm would be ok.

Yep the Car half can be found on the likes of Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBD2-II-16-Pin-Female-Connector-Cable-OBDII-Car-Auto-Adapter-Plug-J1962-Shell-CE-/401248273660

By far the best idea!

The signal strength will be the cause for the delay. You could try making the sensor to wheel gap smaller which should increase the signal strength. The typical cal numbers are for much lower tooth count gearbox speed outputs. To confirm the CAL numbers just compare the speed readings with a GPS speed.

Do you have any devices connected via CAN or RS232? ie a dash?