Adamw

No, there is no CAN receive in the old G4. CAN based lambda controllers didnt come along until after that ecu was out of production.

I just had a quick look at your log, you have way more fuel being dumped in than I would expect, assuming the fuel is petrol. You have 11ms pulse width in the first cranking attempt, then 16ms in the 2nd. Comparing to a log of a cold start from our FD, that only briefly reaches a max of 8ms during cold cranking and that only has 850cc primaries from memory. So you have at least twice as much fuel going in as our car. Normal idle PW is about 1ms for reference. You have accel fuel adding extra fuel while cranking due to incorrect set up, so turn that off for now or copy the settings from our S6 base map. Fix the exaggerated fuel table numbers that you have around 100Kpa, <1000RPM where it will be working during cranking and drop the master fuel to about 7ms. See if there are any signs of life with less fuel. Rotaries can be pretty fussy to start when the tune is a long way off, a squirt of ether often helps.

My suggestion to change the trig 2 sync to cam level was based on your earlier comment that the cam wheel was a "half moon". But in your scope it appears that is not the case, it is a much shorter pulse. If you leave trig 2 sync mode set to cam level but change the trig 1 sync tooth to 35 it should then sync successfully. Your trigger offset may still need to be changed by 360 if no signs of life after changing that. So basic trigger setup will look like below.

So many posts here so I might be asking the same questions that has already been answered. Have you tried changing the trigger offset by 360? Can you do 2 new trigger scopes, one with the vvt solenoids unplugged and another with the solenoids plugged in but with the auxes active state set to high in the vvt settings.

It may work with the Ford TFI trigger mode. The TFI mode expects 3 teeth that are 50% duty and 1 that is 35%. Yours look shorter than that so it may not work. Otherwise, one edge will be evenly spaced so you could use multi-tooth mode with the correct edge, that alone will only allow distributor ignition and batch fire injection though. To do sequential/direct spark it would need a separate cam/sync sensor. There may be other distributor triggers that are more suitable, suzuki seems to use a huge range of different trigger patterns and we dont currently support them all.

I would have the tables set up more like below. So, any more than 1% pedal movement the ALS is removed. I have the ISC override at 20% below 1%APS and by 2% it fades back to normal idle position. The cut and retard are also removed over the same APS range. This may give a quite abrupt dip or surge in power so these axis breakpoints will likely need to be tweaked based on logs and how it feels.

They are active because the conditions that control them are true (RPM < 3600). It is pretty common practice to poke the sharp probe through the insulation, or you can backprobe with a pin/needle. The main relay is controlled both by the ecu and an independent circuit on the adapter board. You can turn off ign 8 just by setting ecu hold power output to none, but voltages on the pins mentioned will be more useful.

Sensor Gnd 12V Sensor supply Trigger 1 Ignitor Gnd Ign 1 Tacho 12V coil supply. Are the teeth on the chopper disc all the same size? It looks like 2 might be shorter but maybe an optical illusion.

Your file share is restricted. Go back into the sharing settings and change it to the option that is something like "anyone with link".

The AFR is showing more like 7-12 in the log.

Im not sure if the lambda is reflecting reality in that log. Assuming it is an AEM gauge, are you seeing similar lambda displayed on the gauge as shown in PC Link? In the area it goes lean the injector PW doesnt change and neither does any of the metrics that represent air flow so it doesnt appear to be caused by the ECU. Perhaps fuel pressure or something. Assuming the lambda is correct then it appears it needs less fuel for most of the log. The high idle is probably due to the idle base position being too high. Possibly the throttle is too far open if reducing the base position cant bring the idle down to an acceptable level.

To do a trigger scope capture you need to go to >ecu controls>trigger scope, then click the capture button while it is running or cranking. Once you have a waveform showing in the scope screen you can then save it.

Your trigger 2 sync should be set to Cam level, not cam window. Your offset may change by 360 if it doesnt start after changing that. Have you set base timing? Also, I suggest you go to >layout>load layout and choose the Default 1366 x 768 one or the 1920 x 1080 one, they will give you more relevant views for initial setup and running.

The important bit of info for whether the trigger is suitable is the "tooth" pattern on the chopper disc or slotted wheel inside the distributor. So, attach a picture of this. Your wiring diagram is for a 4 pin distributor with a separate coil and separate ignitor, the 7 pin distributor in your pic has an internal ignitor and coil, so the wiring diagram is irrelevant to that.

That scope file shows no signal. Make sure you only click the capture button when the engine is cranking.

Im still confused by your explanations. "I've tried using your method of searching for %AppData% which does bring up the Roaming folder" Are you using the search bar next to the start button that looks something like this? If you type %AppData% into that search bar and hit enter, in the explorer window that opens up, what does the address bar at the top show (like pic below), is it different to the C:\Users\Administrator\AppData\Roaming location that your PCLink folder is in? Can you attach a copy of the "corrupted" map.

Something like below would result in true (1) when the average of TC1-4 exceeds 800.

Ploting your existing calibration gives me a Y-intercept of -35, which is coincidentally close to -32, so I suspect 0V = 0°C or -32°F. Playing around with round numbers for the span, I reckon 5V = 150°C or 302°F fits the best. Your existing cal numbers in blue with my guess in orange: But be aware, you still have a 1K pull-up on the temp inputs, so the gauge should still read correct, but the analog voltage that the ecu receives is going to be biased. That could be anything from a tiny difference to a massive difference depending on how the analog output is generated in the gauge.

You can set whatever combo you like. Some users like temps in deg C but pressures in Psi and lambda in AFR for example, so they would likely choose the imperial set then just change temp units to C in the imperial set.

Updated PDM and ecu file attached. I also added CAN aux 2 in case you want to use that so the ecu can control the fan. In the PDM config I changed the fuel pump output to use the ECU fuel pump request but I didn't change the fans. Sorry I missed the PDM08 config, can you share that with onedrive/google drive/drop box etc. The attached .xc1 is the custom CAN builder file for RS3, you can import this into the CAN builder in RS3 if you want to see how it is done. For the VVT, it is more common to leave the fully advanced/fully retarded positions set to zero, then your target tables are just "degrees from home position" (and yes Ford uses negative for advance, Link uses positive). If you set the fully advanced/fully retarded positions to the real measured lobe centrelines then your target tables use lobe centre. Unless you're an engine dev that works in lobe centres every day you may find it less intuitive doing it that way. I would suggest leaving the cam actuators unplugged until you get it running and the basics ironed out. I suspect this engine will have "mid lock" phasers on the intake like the coyote and bara that use an active high signal and can move both retard and advance from "home" position. Brady_7100TT-3.5L_V1.1.pcl5 LINK_Brady Custom_@20240311_005747_001265.xc1 Doteki 32 703 Brady V1.1.zconfig Edit - Added later: PDM08 config attached. I have added DI rail pressure to the ECU CAN stream since you had an alarm set up for that. Doteki 703 Brady V1.1.zconfig Brady_7100TT-3.5L_V1.2.pcl5

To explain spill valve On duration a bit more; with a normally open type pump, when you energise the solenoid this pulls the valve closed, this allows pressure to increase inside the pump cylinder, once that pressure is above rail pressure then the valve is held closed just by the pressure pushing against it, the solenoid no longer needs to hold it closed. The On duration only needs to be long enough to allow that initial pressure to increase enough to hold it closed, once it is held closed you turn off the solenoid to prevent it and the driver/wiring etc from overheating. BTW, once that valve is closed it cant be opened again until the pump goes past TDC which is why HPFP control is so tricky. I think this engine should have a HDP5 based pump so about 40Deg will likely work for initial start up.

Yeah with the aux active state wrong the cam had possibly moved during cranking and given us an incorrect trigger scope that I based my cam window on. So can you do us a new cranking trigger scope with the cam actuator unplugged for at least the trigger 2 cam and I will take another look.

Attach your most recent tune and a copy of the pdm config, I can help with the CAN setup.

The MAP sensor trend doesnt look right to me, it idles at 100kpa and decreases as you open the throttle. Is the MAP sensor connected to a port in the plenium? If the map sensor is connected to the plenum then the low vacuum and very lean lambda measurement would suggest the cam timing is out or an intake valve isn't fully closing.

30-4402 is an oil temp gauge. Or do you mean just the sensor from that kit is being used? You cant connect both an ecu and gauge to the same sensor as they will both have pull-ups that will make both read wrong. Sorry just looked again, it says oil/trans/water temp gauge. I guess it comes with different faces or something.