Adamw

The alternator control should already be set up and working in our basemap. For the tacho, can you attach your tune

Bat voltage is only showing 12.4V in the log. For the dwell - yes, put 1.8ms in the 14V row and maybe 2.0 in the 13V row.

Yes, there is no signal from your cam sensor at all. It could be a wiring issue or a failed sensor. If you unplug the sensor and poke a paper clip or similar into the signal in the loom plug then touch that against ground on an off, you should see trigger 2 signal say "yes" when you do that is the signal wire is ok.

During bootup it will first display 8888, then the next screen should look something like below. The first 2 digits are the sensor type (LSU4.2 in this example), the 3rd digit has the dash at the bottom (narrow afr range), the third digit is the fuel type (looks like 6 but is inferring G for gasoline).

Hollinger usually have a proper 0-5V potentiometer on the gear barrel. That sensor is not going to be useful for gear shift control. We can still do open loop shift cut but it is going to be difficult for you to tune with no gear position feed back.

Can you attach the tune/map from the ecu and your AEM dash config file. Also give us a bit of info about what ecu you have, which CAN ports are wired together etc.

Yes it will affect your tune.

That log just has 30seconds of idle. The info for the ID725's is in the injector dynamics library. Link SPWA uses the GM format. Here is their excel file if you want it: https://help.injectordynamics.com/helpdesk/attachments/15286295 However, the LTE file is a link table file so easier than typing in manually. Instructions below:

A couple of suggestions: If you are using the stock ignition system then the 'JZ ignitors dont like much dwell, they will go into over current protect mode and stop charging the coils. Typically they dont like any more than about 1.8ms when battery voltage is normal. Your alternator isnt charging, this means you are running in cells in the dwell table that have quite large values ~3.6ms average in your log. Potentially making suggestion #1 more likely. You are very close to hitting the MAP limit. The default MAP limit has a control range of 10Kpa, this means it will start limiting 10Kpa lower than what it is set to. In that log yours is set to 163Kpa and you are reaching about 147kpa. This means you are only 6kpa away from touching the limit. There are no signs that it did limit, but you will only need a slight change in air temp or something and you potentially will be - which could make diagnosis of the real misfire more confusing.

I dont see anything obvious ECU related at all. Can you try changing the engine capacity to 2500cc as a test (this is an easy way to add extra fuel), see if it runs longer.

The ecu is not happy about the trigger signal. Can you please do a trigger scope while cranking and attach that here. To do the trigger scope go to >ecu controls>trigger scope, get the engine cranking and then click the capture button while it is cranking, keep it cranking for a couple of seconds after clicking capture. Then hit the save button on the scope screen to save the scope file. Your MAP sensor definitely is not outputting the correct voltage for the early GC8 sensor. Since it is now reading correct at atmosphere the V7-8 calibration is most likely correct for the sensor you have. Does it have a part number visible?

I believe the Android version of the gaugeart app is already available if you know someone with an android phone or tablet you can borrow. The new Extra stream has 3 GP temps as requested for your EGT's, as well as all 8 CAN TC's, a couple of GP pressures, 2 math blocks (can basically send anything you like as a math block), 2 digital GP inputs, driven & driving wheel speed, "knock level detected", fuel consumption and all the others that were previously in the .lcs extra streams. Set up below.

You won’t have a spark with the cam sensor not working

Can you please do a trigger scope while cranking. Go to >ecu controls>trigger scope, get the engine cranking and then click the capture button while it is cranking, keep it cranking for a couple of seconds after clicking capture. Then "save as log". Attach that scope file and a copy of your map.

It looks like you dont have the drivers installed. Go to the G4+ folder on your C drive, here: C:\Link G4+\Link USB Drivers the run the driver install_x64 if you have a 64bit OS, or driver install_x86 if you have 32bit windows. Take note of any error messages that pop up during that install.

Your fuel temp is most likely incorrect because the DI is set to falling edge, most flex sensors use the rising edge. I have attached the deadtime and SPWA tables for the 1000cc Link injectors. You will need to set the deattime table to 3d before this will import (it is not a 3d table but you need to set to 3d so the breakpoints match. Flowrate should be set to 892.1cc @ 300Kpa. INJ Deadtimes 0280158040.lte Short Pulse Width Adder 0280158040.lte

Your map didnt attach for some reason. The "Find devices" tool is only for reprogramming Link CAN devices, it will not find 3rd party devices.

Since you have a proper motorsport gearbox I would suggest changing gear detection mode to analog position sensor. That gives you good data for tuning gear shift and also gives you the ability to use barrel position for end of shift (closed loop shift). Can you do a short PC log of the car driving through all gears (using clutch) - you can do this just with the wheels jacked up off there ground if you cant drive the car on the road. Attach that log and I will give you some much better settings to start with.

There is no trigger 2 signal (cam) showing in that log. Can you do a trigger scope while cranking and attach that and a copy of your map. For the trigger scope go to >ecu controls>trigger scope, get the engine cranking and then click the capturee button while it is cranking, keep it cranking for a couple of seconds after clicking capture. Save that scope file.

That would be all that is needed. Connect Tacho signal wire to an aux output and assign that output to the tacho function.

Most likely the tune. Attach the map and a short PC log of a stall and that should give us some clues.

Leave the -ve unconnected.

Yeah leave it in and back probe since it will likely need the ecu pull-up

I would put that master up around 15ms for that size injector. If you attach a log of it cranking I will take a look to see if there is any other issue.

The XtremeX is probably what I would go for. Direct spark is not really an advantage over wasted with G4X, with an engine like this, you can still do individual cylinder knock control etc even with wasted spark. Direct spark becomes more important for high reving engines where you run out of cycle time to dwell the coil twice per cycle for wasted spark. The advantage of the Xtreme over the Fury is a couple of extra analog inputs which can be a precious commodity. I dont personally have an LS1 map, I could give you the map out of our LS3 track car that will be a good starting point. You can do flat shifting no worries without a gear pos sensor. If its a syncho box you may not get a lot of advantage from it. If you mean rev-matching for downshift then you will need DBW for that. Again gear pos is not needed, the ecu can determine what gear it is in from the speed/RPM calculation, it will index the calculated gear from the gear you are shifting out of as soon as the start shift signal is received and hold that until the shift end conditions are met, so it doesnt matter if the disengaged clutch messes up the ratio calc during the shift. Launch is pretty easy, traction can be a quite a bit of work - firstly to get the control loop tuned well enough to achieve your desired slip quickly under a wide range of conditions - then lots of trial and error to find how much slip works best for your application and driving style. DBW is certainly a nice option. With our LS3 track car for example it has a lot of torque and is a real handful to drive - so we have speed on one axis of the throttle target table so the throttle only opens to max of say 50% at low speeds and progressively gives you more torque as speed increases. This also makes it much nicer to drive at low speeds in the pits etc as the throttle is much less sensitive. Isnt there a factory LS1 DBW manifold/throttle body? I have never used them so cant share any experience. We dont even use knock control on ours, it is not particularly sensitive to knock. Injectors and good injector data arent all that critical provided the battery voltage is reasonably stable. Yep they are great sensors. Very reliable and often handy having two in one. Coolant press is probably not too important unless it is high boost turbo. Either is fine. CAN is only 2 wires so is prob the easiest option if you ghave the data ID's and format. I think I do for one of the BMW ABS systems which is probably the same. All of those are fine.