Adamw

What are you using to bypass air? In the old ecu was cyclic idle active all the time or only when antilag was active? Attach a log and your tune.

No, Brad said to set trig 1 as 4 on the cam which would have been correct and would give the same result as setting 2 on the crank. Offset can be anything between -360 & 360

About 1A would do.

No way to tell really. You could check firmware version and that may give you an idea whether it was years or months. Most experienced tuners would install latest firmware before tuning. There is ECU statistics which will show how many times the engine has been started since they were last cleared, but still no way to know whether they were cleared or not after tuning.

The trigger scopes both look ok. I noticed in your map the trigger offset is still set to zero. Have you checked ignition timing with a timing light? With a distributor if the rotor phasing isnt correct the spark can jump to something inside the distributor rather than jumping to the correct post and this will cause an error.

Yep, its in the help file and there should be a printed manual with the ecu as well. Click on pic below should give you a clearer version

I will explain how the main power circuit works so you can check some of it out: +12V "ignition on" signal comes into pin 45 when the ign switch is on. Check you have 12V here. The ECU then grounds pin 16 - this is the trigger to the main eccs relay (chassis wiring). Check this pin is at ground when ign is on. When the ECCS relay turns on this supplies the main +12V to pin 49 & 59. Check you have 12V here.

At least one of the blue LED's should be on solid with ign on. If it is flashing it suggests it is powering up and down. Is it the 76pin S13 ecu or 64pin S15 ecu?

Hmm, no that sounds a bit odd. So if you unplug coils 2 & 3 and do an ign test on Ign1, do coils 1&4 spark? Or do you only get a spark with one coil connected to a drive?

You could try something like below. In this example the valve would close above 2000RPM. Minimum clamp would have to be zero, all the offsets like dashpot, PS, fan, AC would have to be zero. The other option would be to set the idle output to a CAN aux, then use that CAN aux to control a GP PWM, you could then just turn off the aux above a certain RPM or TP or whatever and still have a normal base position table with all the offsets working. Having said that it wont be nice to tune around the point the valve opens and closes and the factory would have had to put in a lot of work and some odd strategies to get a smooth transition through that operating range. It would give a better result if you plumbed it back into the intake pipework.

Sorry I missed your original post. Yes you can use the dual fuel and dual ignition tables and switch between using the VTC status if you wish. Having said that, I have never needed 2 tables with the VTC Nissans (SR & RB) as the difference is usually pretty small and you can take care of it well enough with a single map. I usually dont engage VTC until around 1800-2000 so cold start wouldnt reach that area of the map.

Start by doing at trigger scope at 2000 & 3000RPM. ECU Controls>Trigger scope. Hold engine at 2000 then click capture. Save the file. Hold engine at 3000, click capture, save file. Attach those 2 files and a copy of your tune.

Ok, this looks like just a problem with the update tool reporting the wrong status. I can reproduce the same message here. The ECU wouldnt even connect if it was in safe mode and wouldnt run an engine. The "random glitches" are not related to this. Will need to see some logs to diagnose those.

You dont need to connect most stuff you dont need. The important thing would be to make sure you use the correct pins for sensor ground and correct pins for the main power grounds. It will be best to stick with the stock dumb coils, wired like factory. Important ones: Ignition switch signal into pin 56. Pin 27 is the control from the ecu to the main relay (ECU grounds pin 27 when ign switch is on to enable the main relay). Main high current 12V supply from the main relay connects to pin 54

Just re-reading your posts, I may have misunderstood your problem. Can you confirm - only the firmware updater tool is saying that the ECU is in safe mode - but you can still actually connect to the ecu with PC Link and see the map, make adjustments etc?

That really sounds like the pinout is wrong. Can you give us a photo of the map sensor and the loom/mating connector and tell us which wires are which.

Not much info to help with. Start by attaching a log and the tune. Does the new engine have same injectors etc?

No it should go to the base position + dashpot offset when locked out. The valve is a throttle bypass that is meant to be plumbed into the intake either side of the throttle.

I’d probably try again, since you can recover by going backwards. If it is repeatable that may give our software guys some clues.

Ok, that is a very weird one and not something I have had happen before. Can you try downloading PC Link 6.21 and install 6.21 firmware to see if the same problem occurs? Note you can have both 6.21 and 6.22 installed on same PC, just name the install folder slightly different like "LINK G4X 621" or similar.

Since your engine has a trigger capable of 720deg sync, the ecu always know which cylinder is firing - even with a distributor. So It checks for knock in the knock window for each cylinder after the cylinder has just fired. If it hears knock in the knock window for cyl 2 after cylinder 2 just fired then it knows that the knock came from cyl 2. Placement of the sensor doesnt matter, it will hear knock from all cylinders.

Then you have done something wrong with the MAP wiring. Pinout is wrong or you have 5V shorted to signal or something. You should have about 3.5-3.6V coming out of the MAP sensor at atmospheric pressure. Unplug the sensor while watching PC Link, if the AN voltage drops to 0.0V when you unplug the sensor then that would indicate the pinout is wrong. If the voltage doesnt drop when you unplug the sensor then that would indicate there is a short somewhere.

The last I heard the ballpark was NZD$200 + shipping. Needs to come back to NZ so may take a couple of weeks depending where you are. Contact [email protected] for shipping instructions.

Ok, I have only seen this when the power supply is missing and the ecu is being powered only via a backfeed through an aux. Can you remove the ecu from the vehicle and power it up on the bench and give it another try. It just needs +12V on pin A5 and Gnd on A34.

Unfortunately the VR4 adapter board is one of our older ones that hasnt been updated for onboard E-throttle. So yes, it will require the external module or it could be modified by link with some flying leads added to bring the Ethrottle auxes out. I would probably go for the modification option in this case since this ecu is also quite stingy with the number of spare inputs and outputs, so Link could add a couple of extra analog inputs at the same time.