Adamw

The plug-ins do. What are you wanting to do though? As mentioned above it is mostly used for OEM applications.

Can you attach the tune file please. For the triggerscope, did you only click the capture button when the engine was turning - not before?

It doesnt look like you have done this? Your MAP sensor is reading 250Kpa with the engine off - it should be about 100kpa. You either have it assigned to the wrong input or the wrong calibration selected. Your coolant temp is showing 40°C but your air temp is showing 28, so at least one of these must be wrong. Your TPS sensors arent working/havent been calibrated and the E-throttle is not working. Your APS sensors arent working. It looks like Aux 8 is not controlling the E-throttle relay. Do you have an aux controlling the e-throttle clutch also? You should probably also drop the master fuel down to about 10ms also once you have the above fixed.

This is just something I knocked up, it shouldnt be far off. You will need to assign all IO to match your wiring and check calibration of all sensors. 2JZ-VVTi DBW Start up.pclr

Moved to the G4+ forum assuming it is a G4+ Fury. You will want a strain gauge knob that has an amplifier built in and gives an analog output (rather than the digital option some have). There are quite a few options but some are better than others - the "you get what you pay for" rule seems to apply in my experience. Since you are in the UK I would probably go for the "KA sensors GST", mid priced and very good. Used by many in the industry such as Geartronics, Quaife, etc. Avoid the Hondata & Fueltech ones and any others that arent actually a strain gauge such as the "S1sequential"

What ecu do you have?

It looks correct enough, I would change a couple of things: I would change cut effect to adaptive. This means the cylinders will be cut in a randomised pattern. With constant mode at some specific conditions you can end up with the same cylinders continuously being cut so it is very hard on the crankshaft etc. Start Cut TP 100 may need to be a bit higher (often around 60%). This is the amount of cut that first gets applied when the control range is entered. If too small there may not be enough cut to prevent an overshoot condition when engine acceleration is very high (ie when wheels come off the ground or boat leaping out of the water at WOT). Cut decay time could possibly be reduced - it may feel slow to recover after a limit at 100ms.

No, a cam sensor wont work with 135 teeth on the crank as there will be too much movement between cam and crank due to cam belt etc. 135 teeth is only about 2.6deg spacing between teeth, so if the cam sensor is set up to occur exactly halfway between two flywheel teeth then there would only need to be 1.3deg of cam movement before the cam tooth would cross over and cause a trigger error. You will need to convert to some more conventional trigger wheel if you want direct spark.

Ok, apparently our original test car when we designed the TT plugin was a AJQ, so it should work. Can you do a triggerscope when cranking and attach that and your map. >ECU Controls>triggerscope. Click capture while the engine is cranking.

The traction control system is wheel slip based so needs speed sensors. Accelerometer is not very useful for traction control as acceleration drops when you have wheel slip, it also drops in many normal operating cconditions where this is no slip such as going down a hill or changing gear.

Where about's are you in the world? Note the odd series 4/5 "toggle" trailing ignitor/coil is not supported, you will also have to change to individual trailing coils. from memory you can use FD trailing coils or go for something aftermarket.

Drop the numbers in the idle base position table down to about 4% - this is how much the throttle is open for idle. You have ~40% in there now. Also in idle actuator settings change start up offset to 0% - this is how much extra the throttle is held open for start up, change the integral gain to 0.05 and change the max clamp to 8%. That should be closer.

I think the Audi V8 VVT mode is only set up for 2 intake cams. You should be able to use Holden v6 vvt mode which does 4 cams with the same pattern on the trigger wheels. Worst case would be the User Defined VVT mode will do it, but more manual set up is required. LH Intake sensor to trig 2, RH intake to DI1, LH Exhaust to DI2, RH exhaust to DI3. Pull-ups on, falling edge. VVT solenoids connected to Aux 1-4.

What is the engine code in this model?

I done a brief sniff in a local JDM facelift BL/P and the CAN bus looked the same as our "WRX11" stream. I didnt get to drive the car though, just sitting there idling it had all the same ID's, it didnt have the DCCD messages. So I cant give any guarantees everything will work. The Kurofune doesnt have that stream as it is only been added to G4X. Possibly our WRX11 ECU would be a closer option when released since that has 4 AVCS cams, the WRX107 ecu only has two cams catered for in its pinout. Maybe a couple of months away.

Something to do with the VTC by the looks. MAP sensor gets very noisy at the same time - possibly cam timing incorrect?

Yes, that should do it, except set the tooth count to 135 if thats what you have. Ignition mode will have to be distributor for this type of trigger.

The ECU requires two independent sensors for safety - there is no way it can know if one has failed when there is only one. One option as you guessed is a "dual track" TPS such as the 6 wire variohm one that Link sell. This would be the best option for you. As a workaround to get you running with what you have initially (I would not drive it very far this way) you could wire the single sensor output to two separate analog inputs so the ECU thinks it has two sensors connected. There are possibly some junk yard options also if budget is tight. There are APS sensors from some Hondas and old Mercs which are quite adaptable (something like a typical TPS sensor design)

Does it have cable throttle or E-throttle? Does it have the stepper idle valve still and is it wired for ECU hold power functionality?

Let me get a bit more info off the engineers how this trigger mode works, im not sure if it uses raw MAP sensor voltage or if it converts it to a pressure drop first and what type of pressure/voltage drop it requires to satisfy the sync test. Might be a day or two as they are neck deep in it at the moment.

It requires an input shaft speed sensor. The settings for it are in >chassis and body>transmission.

A backfire would suggest a trigger issue rather than a fuel issue. Looking at the little info I have on the RZR triggermode I can see it uses the MAP sensor for sync. For MAP sync to work reliably the ECU needs to see the correct amount of MAP depression during cranking. Unfortunately I dont know these engines or vehicles well and we have little info in our library. I have looked at a couple of other RZR maps we have and it looks like the trigger offset is normally 0 on these engines, but in yours it is set at 270. This makes me think you are mis-syncing a lot of the time. Is the MAP sensor stock? Are they normally E-throttle stock? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

Although we have direct CAN keypad integration coming in the next software release, normally when you have a PDM the approach is to have the PDM controlling the keypad and handling all the logic such as toggle/increase/decrease & LED's etc. Then you only send the result of the button logic or function from the PDM to the ECU via CAN. Although it would be possible in theory, you generally dont want two devices in direct communication with the keypad as things like LED states and toggle logic etc could easily get out of sync if one booted up slightly faster than the other or the logic in each device was handled slightly differently for example. Since most of the buttons will be used in the PDM, in this case it will be best to have the PDM in charge of the keypad. I can help you with the CAN settings between the PDM and ecu when you need it.

The missing tooth location is now really not that critical on most engines. On very high compression, low inertia engines with small batteries like for example superbike engines where the crankshaft speed is very unstable during cranking it could be more important. G4X has an advanced missing tooth algorithm where it not only looks for the gap based on the teeth spacing before the gap it but it also does a further validation after the gap by comparing with the teeth spacing following the gap. So it is pretty fool proof and I havent yet seen it mis-detect a gap during cranking (was common in older ECU's). Ideal location missing tooth location for a 180deg crank with a 90deg V, I would go for about 45deg ATDC. Then it is outside the normal range of ignition timing on any cylinder and should be away from any TDC compression "slowdown" that happens at cranking speeds. As for trigger wheel, 36-1 or 36-2 is usually my go-to. I havent seen any noticeable increase in timing stability or precision (by eye) above that tooth count and to go higher tooth count the wheel tooth design and sensor selection becomes much more critical.

After that first run since there was knock detected at ~5500-6500, the knock trim table would have looked something like this: So the next time the engine passes through 5500-6500 this same trim would be applied. These values in this table will stay there until the engine has been operating in the same cell again with no knock detected, then it will start removing the retard. These tables are cleared back to zero also everytime the ecu is powered up. Whereas if the knock trim table had MAP on the Y axis, then only something like these 4 cells would be trimmed (below). This means you would only get retard in low load areas where it wouldnt affect performance. But still it would be better to fix the threshold so that it is not falsely detecting knock in the first place...