Adamw

Yeah, either of those are possibilities. First confirm if this is your problem though. I have seen a few companies selling a kit like this: https://shop.ostdyno.com/shop/shop/nissan-skyline/engine-management/r32-gtr-auxiliary-speed-sensor-kit/

Yep that will be fine.

It will need to be wired to an analog input and you will need to build a pull-up and filter circuit to slow the signal down so you dont just see the fuel sloshing around.

If you havent set the base timing then you need to do that. The procedure is explained in the help file.

Yeah that would be plenty, what ecu and engine do you have?

Do a PC log, it records everything.

Will need to see a log. Look at what LF wheel speed is reporting. Most likely what ever settings you are changing causes the speed to at least intermittently drop below the launch disarming speed so the launch limiter is kicking in. R32's often have a very erratic speed reported from the speed sensor due to the reed switch in the back of the speedo getting old and sticky. Sometimes one edge works better than the other, sometimes both edges are erratic.

6Hz will likely work ok. The threshold and gain etc will need to be tuned from scratch and validated.

Need a log and the tune file please, pictures arent useful.

The round port under the USB connector is CAN 1. CAN 2 is on the main B connector. It sounds like you need to turn off CAN 1 and set up your EGT on CAN 2.

Ah yeah, sorry brain fart. The wasted spark/2 stroke timing light mode is only needed for advance timing lights which you already said you didnt have. A static one doesnt care if it is wasted or not. Yes, it sounds like potentially EMI noise or an electronic "ground bounce" type effect if filtering helps which is why I was asking about the trigger errors and dwell instability earlier as those would usually be present if there was noise being interpreted as "edges". A trigger scope taken with filtering at level 1 compared to a scope taken with level 4 filtering may be good enough to see something.

Are you sure the dash/hub is connected to CAN 1 though? - You have a dash set up on both CAN 1 & CAN 2 so the dash would work if it is connected to either. But since the ECU is reporting acknowledge errors on CAN 1 and not on CAN 2, it would suggest that there is no dash acknowledging on CAN 1. If you unplug the round connector from the ECU does the dash stop working?

You should not run an engine if valve contact can occur anywhere in the VVT range of motion. The are many conditions under which the VVT could move more than commanded such as when tuning the PID or when oil is cold. It needs to be mechanically limited to a max position where contact cant occur. You need to leave VVT disabled until you can fix that. The phaser generally doesnt make any noise at all so the noise you heard is likely piston to valve contact.

Your master fuel will need to be much higher for 550cc injectors, I would try it up around 20-25ms. The only error you have in the map above is for AN Volt 3 (TPS) being above the error high. But that shouldnt happen if the wiring is ok and TPS is working correctly. If you clear the codes, what causes it to come back?

Ah I looked back at the first post in this thread and it was a G4 Storm, I didnt notice this was an older post that had been recycled. So yes you can set up knock control but you will typically want audio equipment also to verify the setup is detecting real knock correctly. Does your timing light have a wasted spark or 2 stroke mode? As a normal timing light without this feature will show double the real advance with wasted spark ign.

Can you do a log of a start attempt. Stalling after a few seconds would often indicate there is not enough fuel so it is only running when the extra pre-crank prime and crank enrichment fuel is being added. What size injectors does it have?

Thinking about this when I was writing up the task last night - cant you just log the status of whatever you have set for the table 2 activation?

Your set up looks ok to me. Is it definitely connected to the CAN1 round 6pin port? Those stream files come from one of our old techs that has since left so I dont know where the info came from and if it has been successfully used before. Haltech will probably give me the info if I ask however. Can you confirm it is connected to CAN 1 first, it is showing transmit errors which suggests the dash stream you have set up is not connected to that port.

What are you worried about? There are mechanical stops so the cam cant over advance, the cam should be able to move from fully retarded to fully advanced at any time. Generally you would start the engine, turn on the cam angle test, set the offset, then tune the control if required.

You can pretty much use anything that is capable of the current. Most set ups I have seen using fuel pump control use the generic open loop PWM fuel pump control mode with a generic industrial solid state relay or an OEM fuel pump control module such as the Jaguar/landrover controller but they are getting hard to find now. I have seen some use Fan controllers such as the mitsubishi or Chrysler/Dodge ones but the problem with these is they are designed to fail with the contacts closed (so fan keeps running) which isnt ideal for a fuel pump. I have this on my injector test bench and it has been going for a few years: https://www.jaycar.co.nz/solid-state-relay-4-32vdc-input-30vdc-100a-switching/p/SY4086?pos=13&queryId=2f6d574c40939344b9939a1fc80dc416&sort=relevance#

Did you try both the key start and button start CAN stream? These two variations have a small difference in the ABS messages, if you have the wrong one the ABS lamp will remain on. Note you need to key off/on after changing the setting for the chassis to see the changes.

You dont even have the CAN enabled in your map. You need to go to >ecu controls>CAN setup and set CAN module 2 to one of the WRX choices. If the ABS light remains on, try the alternate one. You need to key off and back on again after changing the CAN settings for the dash to fully work.

Yes. Load the "Default 1366 x 768" layout and you will have a page named knock, this should have most of what you need displayed. You have to enable knock and set up some basic settings, assign trim tables etc. No. Do you mean -ve battery post? That would be ok.

I havent had any trouble with the CAN in any GR I have tested. Temp gauge at max suggests the dash is not seeing any CAN at all. Are wheel speeds and brake pressure, handbrake etc working in the software? Can you attach your tune.

Depending how much current the module requires the aux 2 may work, they have a 1.5K pull-up to 12V so it will be enough to drive most solid state type controllers.