Adamw

You could unplug the sensor, watch the analog input voltage in PC Link, it should show 0.00-0.02V when unplugged, then bridge the 5V pin to the signal pin in the TPS loom/plug, the AN Volt should then show 4.98-5.00V. If it doesnt that would suggest there is a wiring issue somewhere.

No not compatible for direct connection. You can only use a Keypad via a PDM with the G4+, there is no function built-in to handle all the button logic and controlling LED's etc.

With ign off if you measure between the sensor ground pin and battery negative with an ohm meter you should see near 0ohm.

The trigger scope shows the signal after VR conditioning for the DI's. This should still give you the info you need. The trigger scope will show a rising edge where the cam signal meets the arming threshold and a falling edge where the cam signal crosses zero.

ECT and IAT should use the Std Bosch NTC calibration I would expect. MAP sensor will need a custom cal. Try something like below.

Im not sure I understand the question. If you are asking if you need to check the base timing with a timing light - then yes, you should do this on every engine.

Fuel cut will not cause it to run lean - there is no combustion at all when you cut the fuel. i.e a "20% fuel cut" doesnt mean you are removing 20% of the fuel, it means you are cutting 20% of the combustion events. Because fuel is injected and sitting in the intake port quite a bit before combustion, a fuel cut is not instant torque reduction - you still get a cycle at full power after activating the cut - similarly when the shift has finished and you want to restore power, you dont get any power for a full engine cycle after reactivating fuel. This can make the shifts feel much slower - at least with motorsport gearboxes, I dont have any experience with road car shifts. Fuel cut is safer for some engines that have trouble with valve control or hydraulic valve lash control. Fuel cut is quieter - generally no bangs. Correspondingly, Ignition cut is much faster, but noisier, can cause issues with valve control, and potentially harder on lambda sensors etc. I havent seen any issues with the turbo from ignition cut gear shifts.

What are you using to bypass air? In the old ecu was cyclic idle active all the time or only when antilag was active? Attach a log and your tune.

No, Brad said to set trig 1 as 4 on the cam which would have been correct and would give the same result as setting 2 on the crank. Offset can be anything between -360 & 360

About 1A would do.

No way to tell really. You could check firmware version and that may give you an idea whether it was years or months. Most experienced tuners would install latest firmware before tuning. There is ECU statistics which will show how many times the engine has been started since they were last cleared, but still no way to know whether they were cleared or not after tuning.

The trigger scopes both look ok. I noticed in your map the trigger offset is still set to zero. Have you checked ignition timing with a timing light? With a distributor if the rotor phasing isnt correct the spark can jump to something inside the distributor rather than jumping to the correct post and this will cause an error.

Yep, its in the help file and there should be a printed manual with the ecu as well. Click on pic below should give you a clearer version

I will explain how the main power circuit works so you can check some of it out: +12V "ignition on" signal comes into pin 45 when the ign switch is on. Check you have 12V here. The ECU then grounds pin 16 - this is the trigger to the main eccs relay (chassis wiring). Check this pin is at ground when ign is on. When the ECCS relay turns on this supplies the main +12V to pin 49 & 59. Check you have 12V here.

At least one of the blue LED's should be on solid with ign on. If it is flashing it suggests it is powering up and down. Is it the 76pin S13 ecu or 64pin S15 ecu?

Hmm, no that sounds a bit odd. So if you unplug coils 2 & 3 and do an ign test on Ign1, do coils 1&4 spark? Or do you only get a spark with one coil connected to a drive?

You could try something like below. In this example the valve would close above 2000RPM. Minimum clamp would have to be zero, all the offsets like dashpot, PS, fan, AC would have to be zero. The other option would be to set the idle output to a CAN aux, then use that CAN aux to control a GP PWM, you could then just turn off the aux above a certain RPM or TP or whatever and still have a normal base position table with all the offsets working. Having said that it wont be nice to tune around the point the valve opens and closes and the factory would have had to put in a lot of work and some odd strategies to get a smooth transition through that operating range. It would give a better result if you plumbed it back into the intake pipework.

Sorry I missed your original post. Yes you can use the dual fuel and dual ignition tables and switch between using the VTC status if you wish. Having said that, I have never needed 2 tables with the VTC Nissans (SR & RB) as the difference is usually pretty small and you can take care of it well enough with a single map. I usually dont engage VTC until around 1800-2000 so cold start wouldnt reach that area of the map.

Start by doing at trigger scope at 2000 & 3000RPM. ECU Controls>Trigger scope. Hold engine at 2000 then click capture. Save the file. Hold engine at 3000, click capture, save file. Attach those 2 files and a copy of your tune.

Ok, this looks like just a problem with the update tool reporting the wrong status. I can reproduce the same message here. The ECU wouldnt even connect if it was in safe mode and wouldnt run an engine. The "random glitches" are not related to this. Will need to see some logs to diagnose those.

You dont need to connect most stuff you dont need. The important thing would be to make sure you use the correct pins for sensor ground and correct pins for the main power grounds. It will be best to stick with the stock dumb coils, wired like factory. Important ones: Ignition switch signal into pin 56. Pin 27 is the control from the ecu to the main relay (ECU grounds pin 27 when ign switch is on to enable the main relay). Main high current 12V supply from the main relay connects to pin 54

Just re-reading your posts, I may have misunderstood your problem. Can you confirm - only the firmware updater tool is saying that the ECU is in safe mode - but you can still actually connect to the ecu with PC Link and see the map, make adjustments etc?

That really sounds like the pinout is wrong. Can you give us a photo of the map sensor and the loom/mating connector and tell us which wires are which.

Not much info to help with. Start by attaching a log and the tune. Does the new engine have same injectors etc?

No it should go to the base position + dashpot offset when locked out. The valve is a throttle bypass that is meant to be plumbed into the intake either side of the throttle.