Adamw

Yeah AN Temp 3. From memory the cal table of RTD EGT in G4+ was a little odd scaling. Can you attach a copy of your tune. Is it the AEM RTD?

Yes G4X plugins can do 2 x DBW, using either 2 x external modules or 1 x internal, 1 x external. The important thing to asses is if you have enough spare IO to do it. Each throttle needs 3 aux outputs (motor + relay/enable) and 2 analog inputs, then another 2 analog inputs for the pedal.

If you fitted cable throttle then the Storm would be the lowest cost ECU we have that can do the 4 cams and have enough IO. If you want to keep electronic throttle then the Xtreme is the next step up from the Storm with DBW control. The Fury is similar to the Xtreme except has an internal wideband controller added. Basic comparison here: https://linkecu.com/products/ecu-comparison-chart/

Set Lambda 1 sensor control to "Link CAN"

If it only happens at high loads then most likely interference from your ignition system. Check through some of the common points below.

They only have an example for G4+ (uses different CAN scaling to G4X) on their website, much of that example is set up wrong, and it doesnt give any info about how the fuel level cal table was set up in the ecu which also effects the CAN output. Hence my comment that scaling was unknown.

RPM limit uses RPM for the limit control range. MAP limit uses Kpa for the limit control range. Speed Limit uses Kmh for the limit control range.

No, there is extra hardware connected to Ign 4 to control the ECU hold power circuit in the car. It cannot be used for direct spark.

FTDI donot currently offer a ARM64 driver for the USB chipset in the G4X. There is a beta driver floating around on the net but it is pretty flaky and not a user friendly install.

Haltech dash has configurable bitrate, they are fine on the same bus.

Pic is not showing. Can you attach the actual log file.

Do you have a working speed showing in pc link?

Oh it should have been adding fuel in the top row for your issue too, must have been dreaming when I done that table.

This is how I would do it. Put Engine running time on the Y axis of your IAT trim table. Start up will be the top row, normal running will be the bottom row. This is just a rough example but in this example if IAT was 60deg or above at start up it would pull 20% fuel out for the first 10seconds of running and fade back to normal fuel after 30seconds.

It doesnt look like you done this yet. The fuel table should have numbers around 50-60% in the idle area increasing to around ~100 at peak torque RPM. Also, I would zero out the SPWA table and set the minimum effective PW to zero. Copy the example charge temp approximation table from the help file. Turn off IAT fuel trim. To help any further we will need a log and an explanation of what the actual problem is.

Yes you should always install the latest firmware before tuning. There have been many updates since 2017 and some quite significant.

Should look something like this (are you sure it should be highside drive?): Hysteresis on a GP output is explained in the help file here:

No, any of those models listed can read direct CAN - not only OBD2 messages. SW-CAN (single wire CAN) and MS (medium speed) are not relevant in this case. The G4 uses conventional high speed, two wire CAN. If it is a plug-in ecu then the CAN socket is a JST XA series.

I just had a quick look. Transition in and out of ORFC is one of the trickier things to get right. Possibly AC and fan step are a little high or as Vaughan suggests it needs a lower idle base position during overrun. I have never personally needed to do a 3D idle base position for any of my cars but thats not to say it is never needed. You could possibly bump the fuel cut deactivation up higher and give it more introduction time and more retard to improve the situation also. I typically start with activation delay at 1.5s, reduction/introduction at 1.5s and retard at -15 and find it works ok on most. I have needed -30retard on some cars to get a smooth transition.

Their documentation shows LX/MX/MX+. Note I havent used Racechrono for many years, so dont have any experience to share. Im only going off their documentation.

If your G4 serial number is >10000 then it has CAN bus and the OBDLink CAN adapter will work. If it is 9999 or less then it will need to be returned to Link for a mod to enable the CAN (it is a free service, you just pay shipping).

Leave CLL off until it is tuned. As for the high Idle speed I would say assuming you have calibrated the throttle position sensors then you must have a big air leak somewhere. The throttle says it is sitting at 0% in your log so it should not be able to idle at all with no air.

Looks more like 12 teeth to me? But for this type of trigger you want your cam "edge" to be roughly centered between 2 crank edges. In terms of position relative to TDC or whatever it is not important. It's usually best to do a quick triggerscope while cranking before it is fully assembled to confirm cam edge is in an acceptable location before putting the lid back on etc.

Base ID+2, Byte 2 is what most would refer to a bit field - this is one byte that covers the status of 8 DI's. Byte 3 onwards has only the same information but instead of squeezing it all into one byte they give each DI status it's own byte. For example Byte 3 will be 0 when DI0 is off, or 1 when DI0 is on. Byte 4 will be 0 when DI1 is off, or 1 when DI1 is on. You dont need byte 3 onwards since you can get all the information you need in byte 2. The data in Byte 3 onwards may be needed for a less flexible device that cant interpret single bits or do bit masks.