Adamw

I would ignore anyone that is quoting a MAP sensor calibration using gauge pressure, obviously has no clue what he is even testing. The calibration given by me above would be 0.5V @ 0kpa. The MAP sensor is the most critical sensor for engine control, you dont want to just guess or suck it and see. As I mentioned above tell us what the BAP and MAP reads with the engine off using the calibration given and that will at least give us one calibration point against a known accurate reference.

GP Pressure 3 is not working at all and the others dont look like the data is coming through correctly. Are you sure it is a V3 board and its using data format 3?

The “A” in the acronym MAP is for Absolute.

Try this. Im not sure on what scaling the dash expects for fuel level so you may have to put a multiplier of 10 or 100 on it if it doesnt work or look correct. JeromesGSR V2.0.pclx

CAN is a digital signal - just 0's & 1's going down the wire. This means the ecu always receives exactly what the controller is outputting. With an analog output the controller outputs a voltage in reference to a common (or sometimes not common!) ground. Very few wideband controllers have a differential ground completely isolated from power ground, so even if they have a dedicated analog ground, there is still an influence from load on the power/chassis ground. Any offset between the ground the wideband is referencing compared to the ECU ground reference will offset the measured signal. You can usually observe this with an analog controller by for example turning on the fan or head lights and you will see the reported AFR change. Some of the cheap ones you can even see the wideband heater turning on and off in the analog signal. A further issue is most of them have a very poorly calibrated DAC - i.e the documentation may say for example it outputs 2.5V at 1.00 lambda, but if you test it you find it is actually only 2.3V.

What does the BAP and MAP read with engine off?

If the fan didnt turn on with either of those settings then the fan is not working. With the settings in your middle pic the Aux 1 pin would have been outputting 12V, in the bottom pic Aux 1 would have been connected to ground.

Cut the drain wire off at the sensor end. You only ever want the shield grounded at one end and in our looms it is grounded at the ecu end. There is no "set in stone" rule as to which cavity is ground, a specific manufacturer will usually stick with a convention but not always. Best to consult a factory wiring diagram. The plug housings should have a 1 and 2 marking the cavities. The polarity only really matters for the cam/crank sensors, all solenoids, temp sensors and injectors dont matter.

A trim is a small adjustment. Driven upshift fuel trim is a small adjustment to fuel during an upshift. If you put a value of 10% in that table then 10% extra fuel will be added during a gearshift, if you put -5% in there then 5% of the fuel will be removed during a shift. If using ignition cut then adding fuel during the shift can be used to reduce the backfire bang, reducing fuel can result in a crisper torque recovery but generally results in louder bangs.

There is no trigger 2 signal showing in your log (cam sensor). For your TPS you need to go to Electronic throttle and set E-throttle mode to OFF. Then you will have a Throttle position sensor setting in the analog inputs menu to assign the correct source etc. MAP is already set up correctly. Cam sensor should be connected to trigger 2, not an AN volt. For the IAT, go to >analog inputs>IAT and assign the source. Usually it would be a temp input, not a AN Volt input however.

Oh yes, I was meant to mention that and forgot earlier. Your RPM limit is set to 3000RPM in your original tune and I didnt change it in my modified version. You can set it yourself to something more sensible. Go to >engine protection>RPM limit. The wideband doesnt sound believable, I dont think the engine would even run at 20:1 so I would ignore that for now.

10KHz on G4X. Note this is not relevant to his problem anyway since he is using the test PWM feature on the aux output so the DI isnt even working. It is a very crude circuit just to create a signal that cycles above and below zero volts. It worked for me on a Nissan but I dont even know if I ever tested it above 180. A scope capture would give you some clues about what was wrong. Is the signal still there, is it still crossing zero, is the voltage still acceptable, etc. Depending what was wrong then you would try adjusting the circuit from there.

Can you do a short PC log of it cranking also.

Do the numbers on the dash actually go above 180? You would really need someone to put a scope on it to confirm if the signal is still there and the wave form still looks ok.

Ok, there are a lot of very odd settings in that map. I have fixed a few of them in the map I attached. Give it a try, master fuel will likely need to be increased quite a bit to get it to run with this map so if no signs of life or still is not happy increase that until it runs best. Also noticed your fuel pressure sensor is not working - that is not causing a problem however. Some of the main settings I didnt like: Equation load source was set to BAP - should be MAP for speed density. Short PW adder had big values for such small injectors, unlikely correct - zeroed that out. Accel sense was zero. Accel deadband was very high. Set that to more typical values. Exhaust VVT was set up to advance instead of retard. Changed to negative angles. Some other changes to give a better starting point: Enabled open loop target table. Enabled asynchronous injection. Changed Idle ignition target and clamp. To load this map, connect PC Link to the ecu then go to >file>open. Do a store once loaded. TE72BEAMSBASEMAP V2.pclx

Sounds like wiring is wrong. Check compared to pic below. You should have 5V & gnd and the TPS main as the signal. Be aware these toyota diagrams are looking back into the wiring loom plug - not the sensor, so opposite of how pretty much everyone else does it.

Is it still a single throttle body or ITB's?

The first 6 DI speeds are sent in the datastream. You will likely find these in the "ECU Specific" category.

What is the engine from? What throttle body does it have? Is it a 4pin or 3pin TPS? How is it pinned?

Only Aux 1-4 are capable of controlling VVT solenoids in G4+. So you can use which ever two of these are easiest to free up. I would say the easiest are Aux 1 & 3. Aux 1 is originally used for the fuel pump relay, you could move this to one of the spare ignition drives on the expansion connector. Aux 3 was originally used for the AC clutch. If you no longer have AC then it is good to go. If you still have AC then move this wire to the other Ign drive on the expansion connector. You also need the two extra cam position sensors connected to DI 1-4. DI 1 was originally used for the start signal - this is not really needed so you can just snip this wire and connect the cam sensor. The other cam I would probably connect to DI2 - originally the power steer switch. You can move the power steer switch wire to one of the DI's on the expansion connector.

You need to use Aux 1&2 or Aux 3&4 for the E-throttle signals. Since you dont need IAC your aux 1 is free, I would just move the fuel pump wire from aux 2 to free that pin up. If you dont have AC you could move it to aux 3 or any of the other spare auxes - note Aux 5-6 have extra high side drive hardware fitted so could only be used for specific functions. The enable can be any aux/Ign/Inj. Yes & Yes. Ground to engine block or head would be good. No need for shielding.

Can you attach a copy of the tune also. What size injectors? Can you do a trigger scope at idle or when cranking too.

The VR conditioning circuit only really looks at the positive side (above 0V). To be considered a "tooth" the signal must rise above the set arming threshold, then cross the 0V line on the way down. How far it goes below zero doesnt matter. Although it is usually more symmetrical than yours, im still not sure if that is due to the odd pressed sheet metal wheel or if it is the scope distorting the signal somehow. I dont see it being an issue however since you now have a good voltage margin above the threshold and are still crossing zero by a decent amount the ecu should be happy.

Yes I believe all common ones will be supported.