Adamw

The unlock code would usually be provided to the recipient with the ECU. I would try contacting [email protected] with some details about who the ecu came from and the event etc, hopefully they will be able to track it down.

Attach a log

I dont see any problem in your setup and everything appears to be working correctly. Are you sure these are not old/historic faults? If you clear the fault codes, do they come back right away? >ECU controls>clear fault codes.

I dont have any evo specific experience but your pressure sounds in the ballpark I would expect. The only cars I have good exposure to coolant pressure was in a categore of modern Toyota single seaters. They didnt run thermostats, just a fixed restrictor but coolant press in those trended quite well with RPM, peaking at about 35psi at redline. They were only low boost engines. I would imagine with a thermostat you will see a little more variation.

Yeah the Aux outputs have 1.5Kohm pull-ups so they arent going to drive much load. You would expect a device like that would only be logic level though and wouldnt need any current. What does the multimleter show on the pump controller ign terminal with the aux in test mode high state?

You will need a CANJST4 cable to connect to the CAN socket on the S2000 ECU. https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANJST4 G4X setup is much the same as G4+, here is the manual for the Link branded gauge: https://linkecu.com/documentation/Can Gauge Online Manual.pdf

The target will effect both cranking timing and idle timing. Typically an engine will require the same amount of advance for good idle as it will for cranking. So if it needs 0°C for cranking then it should idle well at 0 also. If not then your best option would be to turn off idle ign control and set up a 4D ignition table to do the idle timing - similar to how the idle ign table used to work in G4+.

I would suggest trying Aux 2 pin 104 or Aux 5 pin 35 as these have a built in 12V pull-up. The injector drives dont have a pull-up so wont give a 12V output.

This means you have something overloading the 5V regulator. Could be a failed sensor or a short to ground somewhere. Start by unplugging all sensors to see if the 5V output comes back up to 5V. If it does then plug one sensor back in at a time until you find the culprit. If 5V doesnt return to normal with all sensors unplugged then there is a wiring issue - since it happened after some work look for potential issues such as a wire snagged in the bell housing or similar.

The help file is wrong sorry. The trigger 2 sensor is on the flywheel in these engines, not cam.

Your trigger offset also looks incorrect. 2JZ VVT trigger offset is usually around 205°

You need to use current firmware. 5.6.8 is current, Your map shows you have 5.6.5. FP table interpolation was fixed in 5.6.6

Can you attach both maps and the log. Also can you give us a link to the pump and controller

Do you want to just turn it on/off or do variable speed too?

During cranking and for the start up delay the ecu will use the idle ignition target as the commanded timing. You can lower the target if you need low cranking timing.

Im not sure if this will be any help to you with my english voice, but here is an old video I done to show someone else how to set up realdash: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPxSh4fEj7PSJbW2lG?e=LCbT9H

No, if you want to retard timing by 2 degrees then input -2

Subtract 2 from the current value (if it is currently zero then it will become -2). Make sure you hit the enter key after typing the number in, it should turn blue to show it has been changed.

Chance, but unlikely.

I have attached the files to the post above. Trigger offset is here:

Yeah but what Im saying is you cant expect to get full boost if throttle is only 15-20%. So the max boost that is shown in the log is really irrelevant. Worry about boost once youve got the tune closer. The AEM white wire to an analog input and brown to ground is correct. If you unplug the sensor from the AEM gauge with ignition on, engine not running, what does the AFR show in PC Link?

Ok, now at least there is a cam signal. Still no crank signal. I think you will need to trace some wiring to see why it is missing. Start by checking there is continuity from the crank sensor plug back to pin 82 & 90 at the ecu.

No you didnt make any boost in that log, but the throttle isnt open much more than 20% either so that maybe expected. What model AEM gauge do you have?

Sorry, VTC is working in your log. I was meaning the map, it is turned off. The log shows the aux is working correctly. Note the aux only grounds the negative side of the VTC solenoid - if you believe there is a problem with the aux then just poke a paper clip into the VTC connector and ground it with a small jumper lead instead.

Ok, a couple of variations attached. One I have adjusted throttle settings so the throttle is a little more closed during cranking. The 2nd map I have put some more typical cranking fuel numbers in there. Flying blind really but worth a shot. If there are signs of life with either of these maps then correct offset may still be 0 or 270. 3-24-22 Throttle & Fuel changes.pclr 3-24-22 Throttle changes only.pclr