Adamw

If your G4 serial number is >10000 then it has CAN bus and the OBDLink CAN adapter will work. If it is 9999 or less then it will need to be returned to Link for a mod to enable the CAN (it is a free service, you just pay shipping).

Leave CLL off until it is tuned. As for the high Idle speed I would say assuming you have calibrated the throttle position sensors then you must have a big air leak somewhere. The throttle says it is sitting at 0% in your log so it should not be able to idle at all with no air.

Looks more like 12 teeth to me? But for this type of trigger you want your cam "edge" to be roughly centered between 2 crank edges. In terms of position relative to TDC or whatever it is not important. It's usually best to do a quick triggerscope while cranking before it is fully assembled to confirm cam edge is in an acceptable location before putting the lid back on etc.

Base ID+2, Byte 2 is what most would refer to a bit field - this is one byte that covers the status of 8 DI's. Byte 3 onwards has only the same information but instead of squeezing it all into one byte they give each DI status it's own byte. For example Byte 3 will be 0 when DI0 is off, or 1 when DI0 is on. Byte 4 will be 0 when DI1 is off, or 1 when DI1 is on. You dont need byte 3 onwards since you can get all the information you need in byte 2. The data in Byte 3 onwards may be needed for a less flexible device that cant interpret single bits or do bit masks.

I suspect the auto calibration wont work with this setup since you probably have springs that are pushing the throttle blades fully closed when there is no power to the motor. On most throttles the sprung rest position with no power applied is about 10% open. When you do the auto TPS calibration the ECU first applies power in the close direction and watches the voltage on the TPS main sensor. In your case since the throttle is already closed then the ECU will not see any movement so consequently throw the error 5. I would just do a manual calibration. Push the throttle tighly closed, note down the voltages on TP main and sub. Then push the throttle to 90° and again note down the voltages on both TP sub and main. Manually type in those open and closed voltages and you are good to go.

What trigger pattern does it have on the crank wheel?

Did you try adding or subtracting 360 from your offset? Potentially sparking on exhaust TDC.

You need to set the calibration to "Linear Cal 1" since that is what you have set up for the MAP sensor. Not Cal Table 1.

No, treat this as a 2 wire valve. Connect the control pin to the aux. Also pin 2 should be ign switched supply, not battery.

Last time I ask. Please attach your tune.

Not at present, 16bit max width. Having said that no car I have ever seen has used more than 2 bytes for RPM, even that gives you better than 0.2RPM resolution to 10000RPM. I highly doubt you need 3 or 4 bytes.

Your VVT errors are because you havent done the VVT calibration. With the engine warmed up and running above the VVT lockout RPM, go to >VVT Control>VVT Setup>Cam angle test and set it to calibrate, it will take a couple of seconds then should set itself back to off. VVT should then work. Who set up and tuned the knock control? How did they do this when the car hasnt even been tuned? Knock should be turned off - or at least the retard limit set to zero while tuning. I think it is just the parameter warning set wrong. If flywheel voltage is somewhere close to battery voltage it is ok. The voltage looks ok in the log. Have you actually cleared the fault codes? Does it come back after you clear it?

Does the engine have an idle valve? You dont have one assigned in the software. If its idling too high with the idle valve closed then you need to close the throttle more.

Not really possible directly. You may be able to do it via a GP PWM with a motor controller that has is own internal PID.

So have you figured it out or still need help? Bit flags or masks can be achieved just by assigning 1 bit width to the parameter.

Attach your tune and a short log of it idling

Has it been tuned? You have some very odd settings in that map. Zero out the PS and AC offset as a start then tune them as per the instructions in the help file.

The map I adjusted will be a better starting point as the fundamentals are now correct. If it starts and runs then the basemap has done its job, you now need to tune it.

If you mean the quick tune function, then this is designed for steady state tuning on the dyno, there are no filters. If you are worried about over-run fuel cut then just turn it off when you are tuning.

Flex sensor needs to be connected to a digital input.

That would be a possibility, but I suggest you test it yourself to make sure it functions how you want.

You will only need a splitter if you want to connect more than one CAN device.

That doesn’t sound right, BAP can’t even display negative values. And if MAP is reading zero you have something set up wrong. Can you attach your tune and a short log of it sitting there with ignition on, engine off.

Ok so if it is connected to handbrake then the launch is going to turn off as soon as the handbrake goes down. In that case only the 0kmh row in your table is going to have any effect. Maybe better to change to the single launch RPM to simplify it since there is time pressure. You will need to calibrate you accelerometers before testing/logging. To overlay logs, open all the logs then go to the log file manager at the left of your screen. In the example below run 3 (selected/Bold text) will be the normal coloured traces on screen. Run 2 traces will all be pink , and Run 1 traces will all be yellow. When all are displayed you can click "O" for "offset axis" on your time plot so you can drag the logs to line up the starting point or other reference.