Adamw

If you attach or link to a pinout for your factory ECU I can compare to our ecu.

It is hard to answer that one as in most oem applications they are not connected to the ecu. Typically they get their signal from the abs unit or gearbox sensor. So it would really only be guys that have done something similar to you or engine swaps that would be able to say. However I would expect most electronic speedos will be fine. It will be better to use one that had a 3 wire (hall effect) speed sensor as that will be easier to replicate by the ecu. One that used a VR sensor will need a small circuit to make the aux output signal look like AC. I know a few guys have got Nissan skyline/sylvia (VR/AC signal) ones working direct from ECU with help of a small circuit I drew.

One of the engineers come back to me with an interesting comment. He said it looks like the firing order is wrong as the RPM speeds up for half a cycle then slows down for half a cycle. However the firing order is set the same in the G4+ and G4X maps. That would explain the backfires etc too. Can you take a look at the board on your G4+ ecu to confirm it is definitely a GTR plug-in and not a 300Z plug-in (basically same ecu built with different firing order)? It should have GTR/GTS printed on it somewhere. If the G4+ is a GTR plug-in then that kind of spoils that theory but it could still be worth doing an ignition test to confirm the correct plugs fire. To do the ignition test you pull out the coils and ground the spark plug, set ignition test to say ignition 1 and you should se a spark on cyl 1. Then go along the engine and confirm the others.

Your injector drive settings are correct. You should have the two secondary injectors for rotor one connected to inj drive 3 and the two secondaries for rotor 2 connected to drive 4. But otherwise the secondary injectors shouldnt prevent the thing from running anyhow. Can you give us a log of it cranking and a copy of the map.

Give us a new log showing the problem.

The 350Z abs sensor Im pretty sure is a magnetoresistive type so will be a major ball ache to make it work. Usually you can make them work but you have to experiment a lot with different voltage supplies, pull-ups, pull-downs etc.

In terms of capability/functionality they are the same. On the Link MXG the only difference is the Link branding on the bottom and the dash comes pre-configured to suit a Link ecu so you can connect to an ecu without doing any set-up. All of the full original Aim functionality remains so you can connect to any brand ecu. CAN/K-line/Serial or OBD2.

You will need an aux output assigned as E-throttle relay 2 even if you dont have one.

Ok, from the looks of those last logs there doesnt seem to be a trigger issue anymore, I suspect that may only have been a contributor to the starting problem and not all of the difference. Have you tried adjusting fuel at all to see if adding or removing fuel makes it behave any different? Backfiring normally suggests timing is off but can also happen if mixture is far enough out to cause misfires. I have ran your G4+ map and G4X map on the engine simulator and get the same spark timing comparing both so I expect that is ok. As a quick/crude fuel adjustment I would just go to >fuel main and adjust the engine capacity up or down. Try adding 500cc and subtracting 500cc and see if it runs any better either way. Otherwise the G4+ log will be helpful to compare too.

Ok, the ecu logs for some reason we have two of the same log and 1 with nothing. But in all the triggerscopes with the new firmware the trigger looks like it is working fine now (it may just be luck that only good revolutions were captured but that is all I have to go on so far). Sorry to keep asking you to do more and more logs but it is the only way we will get it solved without being there in person... Can you do a PC log of another start attempt. Also download the matching ecu log afterwards (maybe delete all logs that are presently stored in there so you know any new log is the correct one). Perhaps you can also do us a pc log of a start up with the G4+ so I can compare if anything else is drastically different when cranking such as inj PW etc.

Ok, I see the problem with the trigger. Your cam has 3 evenly spaced teeth - 0deg, 240deg, 480deg. The EJ25 trigger mode that you are using is designed for a camshaft with teeth at 0deg, 180deg, 360deg. I know K3-VET normally has 0/180/360 same as subaru but I have never seen a KF-DET before. I will talk to the engineering team tomorrow to see if we have any other trigger mode that will work for your engine. Does this engine have VVT on the camshaft?

Can you down load the ecu log files too.

Log and tune please.

Your E-throttle relay is turned on for the whole log and does not turn off in this log. Can you get a log which shows the relay turning off? However, one problem I notice in you log it looks like there is something wrong with the trigger/RPM - it should not be a bouncy saw tooth like this. Potentially if you have a trigger error that causes RPM to quick drop to zero, then E-throttle relay will be turn off. Can you please do a trigger scope when the engine is idling and attach here, I will take a look to see what is wrong with the trigger. Can you attach your map too please (*.pclrx file)

Thanks, we still dont have a good explaination of what is going on. In one of your triggerscopes the firmware engineer can see the missing tooth gap has been mis-detected due to the crank rapidly speeding up right where the gap is which could explain the starting difficulty. The G4X does an extra validation check after the gap which the G4+ doesnt do which may be some of the difference. But that reason wouldnt likely apply once the engine was idling and the crank speed was more stable so we are not convinced we have found the real problem. I will PM you a special firmware to test that has a loser tolerance on the gap width that may help. Install this like any normal firmware update, just use the browse button in the firmware update screen to choose this file. It would be really helpful if we could get a triggerscope capture when the engine is "idling" or closer to idling - I dont know how likely or easy that is for you, but please give it a go. It may start easier with this new firmware. Can you also get a couple of triggerscopes when cranking (with fuel/ign on), with two variations of "Ignition Idle Target", It is currently set to 10deg, I want to try 0 and 20 to see if that moves the crank acceleration away from the gap a little. You will find this setting in >Idle speed control>Idle Ignition Control.

So you need to fix that first. It could be the leverage ratio of the pedal not well matched, excessive cable freeplay - or something like too much carpet restricting the pedal movement. But what ever the case, the crank on the throttle body should be hard up against the stop when the pedal is on the floor.

Also I noticed in the last trigger scope there appears to be some wiring problem. We can see a small reflection of trigger 1 signal on top of the trigger 2 signal. This suggests to me there is maybe a ground wire broken or missing. Did you change any wiring when you changed the cylinder heads?

No, I mean just check that the bell crank that the cable connects to cant be turned any further by hand - it should be hard up against the stops already when pedal is on the floor

Can you get someone to sit in the car with foot on the floor and then check in the engine bay that the throttle cable has pulled the APS bell crank all the way open. Something a bit funny with the voltage range on that aps sensor - almost looks like it is not moving as far as it should.

I've moved all your posts into this one thread instead of having multiple posts about the same subject. Can you Set E-throttle mode to set-up, start a log, and press the pedal to the floor a couple of times, then save the log and attach. The last log only shows a max of 78% APS so maybe your foot wasnt all the way down. Your "Sloppy throttle" is just your soft E-throttle target set up, you are only asking for 9.8% throttle when the peddal is down 30% and only 50% throttle when the pedal is 80%, so the first 3/4 of your pedal travel is going to feel very soft.

Ok, that cam sensor will need to be modified so that it only gives a single event every 720 crank degrees. The easiest would be to just cut off the pink bit so you have one long window. 4 teeth on crank is fine.

You will need a CANPCB cable and a CANF plug, this will give you something to connect your wires to at the ecu end. The CAN wires and the plug at the Haltech end you will have to look after yourself. Connection will look something like pic below.

Have you done the APS and TPS calibration? It doesnt look like it, in the log your fault is due to the APS (pedal position) sensors not matching each other.

Yes, there is a fee for the upgrade code, around NZD$200 at time of writing but it does give you a big step up in functionality. We dont have a very elegant way to "buy" this upgrade as it is not in the dealers "web store" and probably not many dealers have ever dealt with one. So find a dealer you like, they need to call or email their regional Link sales office and manually order a "400-0011". The sales team will need the serial number from the ecu and will email back an unlock code when sale is complete. The conversion of the G3 tune to G4 needs to be done manually by you or your tuner. I will attach a doc that explains the process a bit better. G3 to G4 Upgrade.pdf

Not for a 3TG, not many of those things around... However one of the 3SGE maps will probably be a decent starting point. I know there are a few out there running one our older ECU's but havent seen one for many years.