Adamw

There is CAN required for the NC. We dont have any built-in streams for it and Im not sure how complex it is. It would possibly be best to do a piggy back type install to remove some of the CAN complication.

Sounds like you aren’t hitting the enter key after typing in the new number. The text will turn blue to show the change has been accepted if you are doing it right. If you just type in the number and then close the window without hitting enter first then it will not change.

A few need changing.

All of our GTR/GTS plug-in ecu's since way back in the G1 days already have the correct hardware onboard to generate the proper TPS signal for the Atttesa. It is designed to be plug and play so you should not be changing any wiring. The only thing that is sometimes needed is a small adjustment of the TPS as per the note in the manual below.

Pic from the help file below should answer most of it. Note the extra relay it shows for the lift solenoid wont be needed if you are doing custom wiring - that is only needed if using a factory K20 engine loom which triggers the positive side of the solenoid. Just wire the lift solenoid the same as is shown for the inlet cam position solenoid. Injectors 1-4 go to INJ 1-4 drives. Coils 1-4 go to Ign 1-4 drives.

The ignition is probably close enough but still needs to be checked once your got it running. Have you tried adjusting the master fuel up or down to see if it improves in either direction?

Are you using a plug-in ecu? Our plug-in already has the correct hardware on board. Sometimes you do need to rotate the tps a little to get the voltage right as per the note in the manual

There was another user a week ago claiming DI10 wasnt working on a evo 8 plug-in too. Im beginning to wonder if something has changed and it is not connected. I will ask one of the hardware guys to check on Monday - the only schematic documentation I have for the Evo plug-in at home is a couple of revisions old. As for the dash it is a bit complicated to explain in a forum post, if you attach your ecu and dash config I will be happy to set it up.

No, that is the PC Link version (software on your laptop), firmware is the code inside the ecu. To see firmware version go to >help>ecu information. 6.17.8 is the current.

Yes, and it will work well when the spark plug is inside an unmodified Saab engine with exactly the same combustion characteristics that it is expecting to see. The crankshaft angle that peak cylinder pressure occurs at is the fundamental variable in achieving peak torque/efficiency. It varies slightly from engine to engine but generally around 14Deg ATDC. The whole reason for your ignition map is to try to make that pressure peak occur in the right place under all operating conditions. But typically measuring it (cylinder pressure) requires very expensive and fragile equipment so it is usually limited to very highend engine development or OEM's. I suspect it is when highly optimised by an OEM - but first you will need probably 100's of hours of development to first get the combustion stable enough so that ion current from event to event is predicable (and you need ICPM to do that) - then many 100's more hours to tune the ion sensing to know what is normal and what is not - and this would probably be mapped in 1 deg crank increments in an OEM application. But the problem is if you change anything that effects the combustion pressure and/or chemistry it will no longer be accurate. Audio knock detection is very reliable, far less sensitive to mild changes in tune and will work well for most road car engines. Yes, there are exceptions where audio knock detection doesnt work well (gravel rally cars and superbikes for example) but generally it is the best option for road car engines. Like anything tuning related you need significant experience to get the most out of it.

The CAN bridge was only implemented in a recent firmware. Can you confirm your ECU is on the latest 6.17.8 firmware?

Not as far as I have seen. But it would be good to check what firmware and PC Link version you have just in case it is some weird old version you have. Can you click on >help>ecu information and report what maincode firmware version is stated, and also go to >help>about and report what PC Link version you have.

In your ECU config if we look at the visual representation of the CAN frame you can see fuel level is sitting nicely in Byte 2 & 3. However if we look at the visual representation in the dash config (it is laid out vertical rather than horizontal) then you can see fuel level is sitting in Byte 1 & 2... Pic below. So change your fuel level start bit to 24 should solve it.

I think it is interesting technology when you look at prospects of closed loop peak cyl pressure angle control, but I think that is still a long way off the aftermarket world. As for ion current knock control, it is not very useful in anything but OEM applications, there are just too many combustion irregularities to allow it to be implemented in a DIY scenario. On the moderm BMW's with it for instance even a small change to the fuel mixture completely upsets it.

No, only the AltezzaLink ECU will work in your car, the dash communication is a spacial protocol called "BEAN". The AltezzaLink ecu is our only ECU that is BEAN capable.

The most important bit of information you have left out if you are worried about the dash functionality is what car/chassis are you talking about?

Yes, I can probably help. Attach your tune and describe what dash you have and how it is connected.

76 is TP sub/main tracking error. Since it happens as soon as you switch on the safeties I would say it is the TPS (Sub) 100% setting. Make sure it is set to 100% if both sensors move all the way to 100% or if they dont then set it to whatever value of TP main the TP sub stops increasing.

Aggressive limiter with the SR20 valve train is not a great idea. They can stand up well if built by someone that understands valve train dynamics well but for the typical drift level engine build I would strongly advise against sustained aggressive limiting with a SR20, it is well demonstrated you need very little float before a rocker will jump off the pedestal and that usually results in a valve pushed through the piston at the same time.

Im not sure what you are trying to say here. So it runs fine above 2000RPM but not below? What does "Pops off time" mean? misfire? Back fire through the intake? Bang in the exhaust? Have you checked basics like timing and fuel pressure? Sounds more like a lifter not bled down or something?

If you want to attach your tune I will set up some CAN to look at the two possible AC status bytes so we can see if either are valid. AC will be the easiest test because you can leave the OEM ecu and Fury both connected to the PT bus at the same time while testing.

Probably not in the near future and unlikely with the G4+ platform. To make this work over CAN we would likely have to buy a car to reverse engineer the system and it is not high enough on the priority list at the moment.

If you have the same issue then the same fix will apply.

The Error 16 and 33 are usually caused by either the power supply being too light or it can be caused by excessive inductive noise on the power circuit. There is also a "battery under voltage" error 26 at the beginning of the log which suggests it may be the wires not big enough. If the wires are big enough and you are getting full battery voltage at the CAN lambda plug then it is likely inductive noise. If the relay is not connected directly to the battery then you can try the 22uF cap as per the quick start guide.

Sensor ground would be preferable.