Adamw

You will need the module that is built in to the plug/connector but outside of the oem's you cant buy them without that anyway. But apart from that it will be a direct connection to the ecu. There are many options, they all work pretty similar. The ECUMaster one is common because of its low cost and it works well.

Are the fans working and set to a suitable activation temperature? You can put the aux in test mode to check they are working.

I havent tested it myself yet but I have a MX+ on order myself. According to Realdash the MX+ is capable of interpreting standard highspeed generic CAN (not just OBD2), so it can give you a direct CAN connection over serial/bluetooth. So you should be able to use realdash and it is much better than any of the OBD2 apps. Set the ecu to transmit DASH2PRO, ID1000. Then use the XML file from my post here to configure realdash:

Trigger 2 VVT needs to be set to Inlet LH (not RH) and same with Aux 1. The RH cam is only used for 2 bank control on Vee or boxer engines. That offset doesnt seem right either, it should be around 40-46 so I suspect the cam sensor might be wired backwards, but do another cam angle test after you have swapped those settings above and report back.

Do you have 5V showing on pin 77? If you mean analog input, then yes you can do that.

Does it always happen at high RPM/Load or just randomly under any conditions? Can you get us a triggerscope at about 5000RPM?

Yes, have used these even on G4+ with no drama.

G4X should have no drama generating the required J1939 messages from what I can see.

Have you checked the base timing. Somethings got to be a mile off for it to need that much throttle to idle...

It is not a platform I know well, but I suggest getting in touch with Mark Panic and see what he knows. He makes lots of kits for many of the odd Toyota's and Lexus so may have done something before: https://panicmade.com/featured

Error low/high set correctly? I dont see any reason why ANT 3 wouldnt work looking at the schematic.

Looking through some of the PCS documentation it seems it is common to use pedal position instead of TPS. Have you tried splicing in to the pedal signal? Otherwise you could probably use a GP PWM aux output with a low pass filter to generate an analog TPS signal to connect to the TCU. Unfortunately J1939 uses 29bit ID's and motorolla format so the V88 isnt going to be able to do that.

400mA, so 20 say or so typical sensors easily.

The info I have is the TRC lamp is controlled by the ABS/Traction ecu, not by the engine ecu or anything it is transmitting. So there is likely some required signal missing from the ABS ecu.

So have you not moved the ignition and injector wires on the header?

It looks like mostly your accel fuel dead band too low so accel enrichment is going crazy. You can see in the pic below your TPS delta is around +/-10 at idle, so I would suggest set your deadband to about 15-20%/100ms. You should also update firmware as you are on a very old version that has seen many improvements and fixes.

Are you talking about in PC Link? What happens if you short the wires together? Or short pin 77 to ground.

Yep thats fine as you have it. I thought I remembered it said "1" instead of active.

Can you first update to the latest firmware, run the calibrate again, then if still a problem, attach a new log, the tune file, and a triggerscope done at idle.

Those instructions are from a G4+, G4X has changed a little. For something equivilent you would set SW Parameter 1 to CAN DI, and SW Cond 1 to "=", then the next one down to "1" (1 means on)

Can your attach your tune and a log of it idling.

You dont have a master fuel setting in modeled mode. The equivalent in modeled mode would be to highlight the whole fuel table (click the grey cell at top left corner), then adjust the whole table up or down (shift + Page up/Pg dwn)

Yes, sounds like youve got it right. the timing reference you can choose any number you like - usually to match whatever timing marks you have on the front cover. Some engines for instance only have a TDC and 10BTDC mark so you would use 10 in this case.

Yeah, your need for 30% throttle to idle at 1000RPM suggests it is not happy with something. Did you rewiring the ignition outputs so they are in the correct order? Because if you did you should enter the RB firing order into the ecu, at the moment you still have the VG firing order in there. Another change I suggest you do is open up our GTR base map, go to the fuel table, right click on it, choose import/export>export to clip board. Then connect to your ECU, go to the fuel table and import from clipboard. This will set up the fuel table with TP on the axis more suitable for the ITB's.

2JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr