Adamw

It will never show up in "find devices" as that tool is specifically for finding Link CAN products, it wont find 3rd party devices. Can you attach your tune so I can take a look?

So do the coils spark if you manually set them to test mode? For the ECCS sync, if your "ECCS widest slot" already says 16 degs then you dont need to do anything, it is fine as is. If it says 0 or some other number then I would just manually change it to 16. To do this you have to first turn the "Test ECCS sync" setting on, the widest slot number will then unlock, so type in 16 then turn the "Test ECCS Sync" off again to lock it. The next question is, do you get valid RPM displayed in the software when you are cranking? (should be around 150-250RPM). As for the fuel pump, how is it wired? Do you have the ecu switching a relay?

Are you doing these tests with the ecu still plugged in or have you unplugged it?

Ok, that is tiny considering one cylinder is 700cc. I think your master fuel number will need to be much bigger in that case. try it around 30, see if that gives any more signs of life.

No, no different, still major trigger issues and voltage hasnt changed. Sorry I just noticed it is "O17" in the manual. Provided you were checking the correct pin you should see something close to 0ohms. Can you check again resistance from crank sensor ground pin to ECU O17 and O24.

Ok, all the triggerscope captures actually look ok but the logs still show many trigger errors. The only hint that something is wrong in the triggerscope is trigger 1 is much lower voltage than usual and only about 1/6 of trigger 2 voltage. Usually on these engines they are about the same or trig is much higher than trig 2. So Im suspicious there maybe something like a ground missing from trigger 1. I have had a case before with a disconnected ground which gave a similar scenario - there was just enough current passing through the circuit to show a waveform on the triggerscope, but not enough grunt to get through the VR conditioner and other processing electronics before the main processor. Can you unplug the crank sensor and measure resistance between the ground wire at the crank sensor plug and to say some other known good sensor ground such as at your TPS plug or even back to the ecu pin B17

We need to see what your settings are to suggest what to adjust. Attach it just like your logs above.

The common way to run flex fuel in the V series is by using a 4D fuel table with ethanol content on one axis so it multiplies the main fuel table by a factor varying with RPM or MAP. But the main problem you will have with the older V series is the compensations such as cold start and warm-up enrichment will always have to be a compromise. The cold start settings required for ethanol Vs petrol are vastly different but the V series only gives you one lot of settings to work with. With modern ECU's you have either 3D compensations that vary with ethanol content or 2 sets of compensations that are blended based on ethanol content.

You can use any aux for the idle valve. The V5/6 didnt have TGV so doesnt have any pins assigned to those functions. Im not sure how you would use those wires for anything unless they are long enough to reach from your solenoids all the way back to the ecu plug.

You need to select the correct calibration for the MAP sensor that you are using. The 5 KPa error means your calibration doesnt match.

need your tune as well.

The VVT part is easy, you can use the user defined mode, setup is explained in the help file. The unknown is how well the triggering side is going to work as the Subaru V7-10 trigger mode that you are using was never designed to work with cam teeth that move in relation to crank. On the V7-10 engines they have a separate 2 tooth wheel on the front of the cam for trigger 2 that doesnt move in relation to crank. I just done a quick test on the bench and it seems to work on ok on the simulator so you might have struck it lucky but I still have a little doubt. It really needs a new trigger mode written to suit this engine but it is the only time I have ever come across it so it wouldnt be high on the priority list.

Pin 2, 7 & 12 on the 23pin plug are the analog grounds.

If you attach your map I can possibly offer some suggestions for a more aggressive limiter, but be aware that it can be risky on some engines with hydraulic cam followers which is why our base maps have soft limiter settings.

Correct, if you have no trigger signal showing you have a wiring issue. What ecu is it? Does it have a triggerscope function?

Correct, the ecu doesnt need a permanent 12V, it is fine/normal to switch it off completely with the main relay.

Sorry for the slow reply. There's definitely still trigger issues in your log - it looks like once every couple of revolutions it looses sync but I dont see an obvious reason for it. Can you try adjusting both trigger 1 and 2 arming threshold tables to match my examples below. If that doesnt help can you do a few more triggerscopes at different times - say 5 or so. If it is caused by an intermittent connection or noise etc we will have a better chance of catching it.

The most common problem I see after engine swaps is a wire caught/clamped somewhere it is not meant to be - like between the block and bellhousing or starter motor etc. I dont know MR2's well but since it was ok before the swap and not ok afterwards, that would be the first thing I would look around for.

I probably know these well enough to give you something that is close to working. Is the engine all stock gen 2? Stock fuel pressure etc?

The original stepper motor has 6 wires, 2 x 12V supplies (yellow I think), then 4 x aux outputs - Aux 5,6,7 & 8. The new valve only has three wires - a 12V, a ground and an aux. So the 12V and Aux are already there, for the ground you can just connect to the block or manifold.

Nothing obvious leaps out at me in your log or tune. If you get a back fire though it usually suggests a spark has occurred at the wrong time. 360deg out is the first thing I would have jumped on - so did you already try an offset of -213? If you do an ignition test do they all spark in correct order - ie test ign 1, cyl 1 sparks, test ign 2, cyl 2 sparks etc? Do the VK coils have ignitors built in? What size injectors?

Do you have valid RPM showing in the software when you are cranking it?

Are you checking this with the ecu plugged in like I said? Because 71 & 72 are linked together internally, you should get exactly the same voltage on both if the ecu is plugged in - even if there was no wire connected to 71.

46 is sensor ground. Please check with voltmeter connected between pin 1 and 71 or 72. Check with ECU plugged in and ignition switch on.

That is the PC Link software, not the ECU firmware. You need to connect to the ecu and go to >ecu controls>update firmware. Here is what you map and log show: