Adamw

Does the DI6 runtime show Green/Active when the AC switch is on and off when the switch is off?

Yes. The drawing is incorrect or not clear since it shows 6 pin numbers but only 5 pins. Since all other pin numbers are to the left of the pin I would say the most likely interpretation would be Pin 4 is SP2S and pin 2 is the one with no connection. It will work fine. You dont need to enter any voltages, just hit the AP calibration and follow the instructions on screen.

You still need the correct tooth count.

Please take a look at your trigger settings again, they are nothing like the settings I told you to use that you have included in your first post. Tooth count should be 36 and trigger 2 sync mode should be cam pulse 1x.

Looks like a trigger issue. Trigger 1 signal goes to 0 and the trigger 1 error counts up just as it stops. Can you do a trigger scope under similar conditions (engine warmed up, idling @ 870) so we can see if there is any obvious reason such as arming threshold. RPM as the axis for accel sense is normal, this is because you need much more accel enrichment at low RPM than at higher RPM. Also, I suggest you update the firmware.

What’s the firing order?

If the coils are wired individually to Ign 1/2/3/4/ then it needs to be set to direct spark. If the coils are wired in pairs to just Ign 1&2 then it will need to stay in wasted spark mode. Yes you should at least re-check it. Will likely not need any adjustment. If the coils are more powerful then you should be able to increase the gap.

So it appears it is running fine in that log. So the question is why has the voltage from your crank sensor reduced so much... Wiring sounds ok from the tests you have done so far. Is it possible the sensor air gap has changed? Did you have any of the front of the crank shaft/pulley/oilpump apart when you were doing work on it? Can you do a rough crankshaft end float check with a pry bar or similar and check the crank doesnt float backwards/forwards. Can you also measure resistance between the black/blue wires with ECU unplugged. It should be mega ohms or open circuit. Can you do a trigger scope at around 3000RPM and another at around 4-5000RPM and we will check the voltages at higher RPM too. So it should be fine to run it like this - it is just odd for it to change on its own.

So do you have the 7M CAS/distributor base type thing? So both the cam and crank signal is coming from the 7M CAS? Or do you have the turbo 2JZ crank wheel and 7M CAS for the cam only?

Yes, The timing would have been out by the same amount as the trigger offset.

In >options>connection, check connection port is set to COM3, sometimes auto mode can get hung up.

There is a jumper on the bottom board to switch between the OEM MAP or the Link MAP. Only one will ever be in use.

That would suggest you a break somewhere along that sensor ground wire, or a bad crimp at one end, or a bad splice. Since both the pot and TPS are affected that would suggest the bad connection is somewhere before it splits out to those two devices. Sometimes you can find it by wiggling different areas along the wire while watching the omhmeter.

So if its got a constant 5V going into that switch, but the voltage fades away when it is biased more towards ground that would suggest the ground connection is weak/has high resistance/bad connection. You could try measuring resistance from the ground pin at the pot to the ECU sensor ground pin, it should be very close to 0ohms.

Now probe the 5V wire on the rotary pot and see what that is doing.

The coils should always be wired ign 1 to cyl 1, ign 2 to cyl 2, etc. Set the correct firing order in the software and then the only unknown you need to find yourself is the trigger offset. This will then mean injector timing is correct, knock control will identify the correct cylinder and any individual cyl trims will work correctly.

I just remembered also some of the very first Gen 1's (I think 1999 & 2000) had a plain 8 tooth crank wheel too. I only tune a couple of Hayabusa engined sports cars and they run an english ecu so the trigger offset is a bit hard to decipher from what I have, but I would try -100 or +260. There is a little inspection cover you can pull off on the starter motor cover to flash a timing light through. The mark is TDC.

Can you try trigger 1 arming threshold like this:

Push a pin or straightened out paper clip into the ecu plug beside the wire until it touches the terminal, then put your probe on that. https://youtu.be/Spy8AXlxVT0

That depends on many factors, engine design, valvetrain resonance, how much backlash there is in all the drive system etc. On the modern subarus for instance the cam on one side of the engine advances about 7 degrees just from the block expanding as it warms up. Typically distributors on a 4 cyl engine are the worst as the camshaft resonates a lot and the distributor drive generally has lots or backlash. At certain RPM bands there will be a natural frequency where everything starts shaking backwards and forwards. I would say you could expect around say +/- 3 or 4degs on a 4 cylinder with belt driven cam and mild cams.

Ok, should be fine. As long as you confirm the wires you are going to use just go straight through and arent spliced to anything else in the loom on the way through.

Connect a multimeter to the AN input pin at the same time so you have something to reference.

Yes the ecu has a terminating resistor built in.

Seems to work fine for me. Do you have a bluetooth comm port showing up in windows device manager? I only have an old plx kiwi bluetooth device, but here is below working with realdash and a free windows scan tool app, tested with torque on android fine too.

The map you have is already speed density. As dbs13 says you need to go to >ignition >ignition setup>ignition main and change ignition mode to direct spark. Also in >Fuel>Fuel setup>fuel main you will want to make the master fuel number much bigger. This is the overall fuel scaling so since you have small injectors I would start at around 20-25ms. Dwell is fine as it is. Is your MAP sensor connected/Setup/working? It is not working when you saved that map. Otherwise it is not far away. Do you have realistic RPM (~150-250) displayed in the software when cranking?