Adamw

With the pressure switch bridged, if you press the AC switch, do you now see DI6 change status?

I dont know the M50 well enough, but I dont think the cam trigger wheel moves with the camshaft does it? Isnt it fixed to the back of the sprocket? I would expect if you hold RPM just above idle somewhere and put aux 3 into test mode you would hear the note of the engine change if it is working.

Yes the Atom would be ideal for something like this. I have used them for a similar purpose in classic racing where only carburetors are allowed. Especially if you fit a TPS sensor in future you can do a 3D mapped ignition curve as well as idle ignition control for a good road drivability improvement. You can also use it to do basic launch control, RPM limiting and even engine protection type limiting too if you fit for instance an oil pressure sensor. Almost any trigger system will work but even though you specifically said "trying to avoid crank trigger", I'd still like to try to encourage you to consider crank trigger if you can. Cam driven triggers (ie distributors) will always give significant spark scatter at specific RPM bands due to cam resonance and mechanical backlash so if you get rid of that you can usually tune in a decent performance improvement. Also if you found a missing tooth type trigger wheel you wont need the cam sensor/distributor at all which may make for a neater install too. Electromotive do a reasonably priced missing tooth SBC crank trigger kit. The two sensor distributor you talk of I have never come across personally, but it sounds like it would work.

The original M50 has no Vanos. The TU versions have what BMW call "Two setting Vanos", it is not VVT, it is just an on/off setup similar to Honda Vtec. Our E36 base map has the correct settings for the M50TU, aux 3 set to CAM-switched and they usually work best to turn on at 2500RPM and off at 4500. It only moves the inlet cam about 20 crank degs so it will never make a large difference.

1Kohm will give you the best resolution at normal working temperatures. 1% tolerance is normal. 4.6K would give better resolutioin at temperatures below 0 which is not important for oil temp in my opinion. NTC sensors are near linear at either end of the scale - just in the mid range they are most non-linear. So if you really wanted full quoted range of that sensor you can just skip one on or two calibration points at each end where is is near linear. I still dont see why you would need to accurately know oil temp at -40 but you can do it if you wish. Something like this:

You would be best to ask your own question. What engine do you have?

Vanos is just a two wire solenoid like most other systems so no I dont think it is anything like Vanos. Just from the number of connections it appears to be either a DC servo or possibly a stepper motor with positional feedback. So possibly more similar to E-throttle.

Thats not what I said to do. I said bridge the sensor. If you have it open circuit then of course no signal is going to reach the ecu. Also, it sounds like you have the pull-up turned on on DI6, it should be off.

I have never seen one of those and have no idea how it works. But suspect it is unlikely a Link could control it. If you can find any technical data for it I will confirm.

Yes, the open throttle is to reduce pumping loses, BMW valvtronic is similar. I dont think it would make much difference to torque.

Yes, the positive goes to the DI and the -ve to sensor ground.

Have you guys considered just locking the VVEL at max lift? Its really only to reduce pumping loses for emmisions isnt it?

Can you attach some photos of both ends of your wiring.

I just managed to reproduce some of this by changing my language/region settings to Germany. Although I can still connect to an ecu no problem, I do now get the same error trying to open the 1UZ Atom base map. I will ask engineering to take a look tomorrow.

Ill ask again:

Hmm, weird. I can connect to any ecu and open all files fine. So we need to find what is different between your setup and ours. I just noticed in Mustangs screenshots above that his language/keyboard/region settings are DE. What are yours?

Are you sure the trigger wheel has 3 evenly spaced teeth? Did you make the trigger wheel yourself or is it a factory part? Can you attach your map and a log of it cranking.

Either will work since you are running wasted spark and multipoint fuel.

Use multitooth mode. You can copy the settings out of the Mk4 supra base map if you need help or the 2JZ page in the help file has all the info too. What MAP sensor do you have and what do you mean by "intangible"? What calibration are you using?

What does the engine have for a trigger? Please attach your map and a log of it cranking.

Ok, so semi-sequential is not going to be possible with that firing order. It will have to be multipoint group. Set active drives 1-6 and you can wire a pair of injectors to each drive. The injectors will be fired in two groups 180 deg apart every 360 degs.

There is a pressure switch in the AC request circuit that turns off the ac request when the pressure is outside normal limits. Maybe try bridging across that switch to see if that is locking it out.

I dont think you will get anything useful without someway to gate or filter out some data. If I were going to do it this way I would use Megalogviewer (or Life Racing LifeView is powerful & free) create a couple of math channels - one to get rid of most transients and over-run conditions etc and one to extract only data from a specific RPM or load band.

If the MAP is set to 4 bar in the software and its reading matches the BAP when the engine is off then you are using the onboard one.

Nothing really obvious there. Trigger 2 has a bit of noise on it but not bad enough to cause a problem at least when that capture was taken. Try bumping up the arming thresholds at 1000RPM as per my pic below.