Adamw

The log shows its got fuel and spark. Have you put a timing light on it to confirm if it is sparking in roughly the right place? If it is then it could potentially be 360 out and sparking on the exhaust stroke, so try adding 360deg to your offset.

Looks ok to me. It is already unlocked and nothing noted against that serial.

Ok, its really odd to see that error 54, but it appears to be communicating correctly so we can assuming the CAN side is ok. It is like it isnt powering up fully or something. So as a test I would pull your power/ground wires out of the DTM plug and temporarily run to new wires direct to the battery, so that all the existing power supply is bypassed. If it then boots up and works with no errors then you can concentrate on it being a power supply issue.

Yes, works fine for me. This is your map loaded into an Xtreme, same firmware as you are running. OBD socket wired to CAN2, PLX kiwi dongle plugged in to OBD socket. Tested with 3 apps; Realdash on windows, OBD dash.Lite on windows, Torque Lite on Android.

The LH/RH inlet terminology is used for two bank engines such as V8/V6 where you inlet camshafts on both sides of the engine. If your engine has only one inlet camshaft then the convention is to use LH Inlet. There is no way the ecu can know piston to valve clearance at different cam angles - even the genuine V-cam controller. This is something the engine builder must determine during the engine build. Even a minor difference such as a different thickness head gasket or deck skim will effect how much PTV clearance you have.

Your log file on google drive has restricted access, you need to change it to something like "anyone with link can edit".

Yep looks ok now. Make sure you still update firmware if not already done.

Why not sequential? Is there no cam sensor?

Yes it needs a ground reference.

Looks like the wiring is wrong. You should have 24 teeth on trig 1 and a single tooth on trig 2. In your scope however it has recorded 24 teeth on both trig 1 and trig 2. One tell tale is they are opposite to each other, so when trig 1 goes up, trig 2 goes down - This suggests you have trig 1 input wired to one side of the trig 1 sensor and trig 2 input wired to the other side of trig 1 sensor. Possibly you have the trig 2 and ground pins swapped. So you need to go back and look at that wiring. Here is a note from the help file:

Yes, the sync tooth it is only important for engines with variable valve timing when the cam tooth/teeth move in relation to the crank. For a 4A it is irrelevant.

So has it previously worked ok before your re-wiring? Did you only change the wiring on the 4 pin connector side of the controller or did you mess with the sensor side of the controller wiring also? Can you attach the tune also.

Can you first update to the latest firmware, then do a triggerscope capture during cranking.

The most common cause of a 5V rail short I have experienced are from pressure sensors. In my last job looking after the electronics on a category of 20+ single seater race cars I saw this happen probably 6 or 7 times in a season. For whatever reason often when they fail they go low resistance between 5V & gnd. And as you say, they will often just come right on their own if left for a while, so you have got to get in quick and diagnose while the short is present. So unfortunately to diagnose you really need to wait for it to happen again, then the process is to watch the 5V runtime in the software while you unplug sensors, it will instantly jump back to 5V when you unplug the faulty one.

Please pay attention to the note I have highlighted from the unlock page below. The unlock code you (or the dealer if you are not the dealer) have generated is for serial number 01157, not 1157.

No, the G4 is older so there is no way the old software can interpret or understand all the new settings and features that are in a newer map. Your best option will be to open the G4 and G4+ software side by side, start with a G4+ base map for the ECU you have then work down the ECU settings tree one setting at a time copying settings from one side to the other. All tables can be copied across by right clicking on the table and going to import/export>export to clipboard, then go to the G4+ table and import from clipboard.

Man that is a weird one, it has the normal NB and later cam pattern but with 36-2 on the crank? 36-2 is generally a toyota pattern and I've never seen mazda use it. Is there any chance this has an aftermarket trigger wheel fitted? Assuming it doesnt have VVT then I think the set up below should work. If it has VVT I think it would need a dedicated trigger decoder written. I have no idea what the offset will be. If you get trigger errors or errratic RPM when cranking with the set-up below then do us another triggerscope.

There are several auto trans related pins on the header that are not connected to anything inside our ECU as it was never intended to support the auto's. I dont know what they do but probably some sort of torque reduction signal for the shift and maybe a kick down signal from ECU at high loads. So shifting will unlikely work well.

No, you cant connect a wideband sensor direct to the ECU, they will need their own controllers. If you have widebands with controllers that output a 0-5V analog voltage signal then yes you can connect the controllers in place of the narrowband sensors.

There is no direct connection from the AC button to the ecu. The ECU receives the AC request from the AC control unit. You should be able to look up a factory service manual online and follow the AC diagnosis guide.

Is it a blue plug ecu in that model? No personal experience, but from what I've heard the Nissan auto's dont work well without the proper ECU controlled torque reduction.

Assuming it is a 4 plug ecu, the CE light is controlled by Injector drive 7. To test you can go to Aux Outputs - Fuel and find Injector drive 7, change its function to "Test (ON)" to see if the lamp comes on.

Set the trigger 1 arming threshold to the example below and see how it runs. I suspect it will be fine. You are welcome to, but there are not many explanations I could come up with for an internal problem to cause reduced voltage reaching the trigger scope and micro. The triggerscope hardware and the micro that runs the engine are separate pieces of hardware so when both show symptoms of low voltage then it generally suggests there actually is low voltage. The issue is if you send it back and we find no problem you will be charged for the service and shipping. I think a more logical next step would be to find someone locally with a standalone oscilloscope to do a capture - if that standalone scope shows a similar low voltage to the built-in scope then the problem is external - if it however shows a voltage on trig 1 more like your cam sensor (12-20V) then you could conclude it is likely internal and will be a warranty repair.

Yeah, something weird going on for sure. What I suspect is happening is the Evap temp data field in the CAN message is actually longer than 1 byte - but because it is much cooler down here in NZ whenever we tested the car we probably never saw that value go above one byte so assumed it is only a one byte value and the ECU has only ever been looking at one byte. When the value goes above what 1 byte can take it rolls back to zero (as the next byte along would normally be added on the the value). To my knowledge you are the only one in the 10years we have been selling the Mini ecu that is in a hot enough climate to find this problem. I will ask engineering if they can take a look to see what options there are to solve it.

Im not sure if I would rely on the cam angle #1 being correct without the proper tooth offsets etc set up. Try doing a couple trigger scopes at say 2000RPM, one with the aux in test mode and one with it off. provided that cam wheel moves with the camshaft and the cam is actually moving we will see it in the scope.