Adamw

It is nothing to do with boost control, your turbo is barely even spooled by 3000RPM. Your throttle position sensor is likely rotating off the end of its wiper travel. The voltage is reaching the error settings so the ecu is defaulting the sensor to the error value. It may be a faulty sensor or it may just need adjustment. It is a misfire. When you dont have combustion you have a cylinder full of fresh air pumped into the exhaust system, the lambda sensor measures oxygen. The erratic lambda usually means you have 1 or 2 cylinders misfiring.

What two wires are you talking about? Are they from the gauge?

You didnt originally say you have an EVO9 ecu. The Evo 9 is a similar story though, ign 4 originally controls the condensor fan so you will have to remove that wire to get acces to ign 4, and ign 3 controls the fuel pump so you will have to move that wire to a spare aux to free up ign 3.

No you cant log the DC. But you can log whatever parameters you have on the table axes, then if you open your PWM table beside your timeplot the table will have pink cross hairs showing which cell it was working in.

The aux output wont even be outputing a pulse when the engine is not running, so it sounds like the problem may lie elsewhere.

As far as I know all the Aim dashes should use the same scaling for lambda, so the MXG should be the same as the MXS. The "AIM MXS" stream uses a lambda resolution of 0.01 whereas the generic dash stream uses 0.001, this was done to allow the AIM dashes to also support our older ecu's which transmit AFR instead of Lambda.

That crimp join looks pretty dodgy from what I can see of it. How about if you poke a paper clip down into the connector beside the wire to measure directly on the terminal?

No, that controller only has a single ground - no seperapte analog output ground. This means the high current heater circuit is grounded through that ground wire. You dont want a noisy high current device connected to your sensor ground. The best option for your device would be to ground to the engine block.

Correct, crack the throttle open so the valve is down around 20% at normal warm idle and that should mean most of the air is going through the throttle. Yes you need to retune the fuel table any time you adjust the charge temp table. The example values in the help file are generally a good starting point.

So its reading correct in the ecu now? What dash do you have?

If you fit one and tune in modelled mode then the changes in fuel density and the charge cooling effect is taken care of automatically so it is a relatively easy sensor to implement. Having said that I wouldnt consider it highly important and you will be able to achieve a perfectly adequate and safe tune without it too.

With the evo 8 plug-in ECU in a factory car, ign 3 is used to control the AC cltuch and ign 4 is used to control the condensor fan. It sounds like you dont need these functions any more, but if you want to use ign 3 & 4, you will have to remove the AC and fan wire and run your own new wires to the coils. They are not available on the expansion port.

It shouldnt disconnect, that sounds like you have some other issue. Does a normal laptop disconnect as well? PC Link generally doesnt need anything flash to run it as just a display. There are plenty of examples of tablet layouts in the forum, try the search tool at the top to search for tablet and you will probably find some.

Just start the engine up and adjust the master fuel value up or down until it runs ok. That will get it drivable but it will need proper tuning before it can be driven any more than very gently.

You will have to go back to him and tell him he has given you the wrong unlock code.

If your device only has a single ground then it cant be connected to sensor ground and will always have a varying offset from reality. Lambda will change whenever electrical load on the chassis changes such as fans turning on etc, so you will have to live with that. You can view the CLL status by looking at the parameter " CL Lambda Status 1", in both your logs it shows " Lockout: Startup timer". This is because you have a startup timer of 300s set so it wont start working until the engine has been running more than 300 seconds.

It would be pretty unusual for the throttle body to be completely closed with all air coming from the idle valve? Charge temp approximation is not designed to cover for a sensor that is not exposed to the air entering the engine, it is designed to account for the heating of the air that happens after the sensor - it still needs to know the correct initial air temp.

Oh, just noticed in your tune you have Lambda 1 assigned to none. Go to Lambda 1 in the analog inputs section, set it to "Link CAN". Also your CAN set up looks a bit weird with the compound ID in Byte 5, what controller is it?

Have you got the right pin? Bottom right corner of the 16pin connector:

Ok, so that looks fine. Have you set the base timing?

You should ground them properly as per the data sheet, some pins are grounded to cyl head, some to the battery, some to ecu sensor ground. They can pull significat current so you will have to check if the factory power supply is suitable. As for the triggers, for direct spark you will need to run new wires from the ecu for ign 3 and ign 4. You may also need to move the AC Clutch and fan to some other aux.

See if this helps: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPtGpksumYRqo5cH7A?e=L0nxEN

The triggerscope doesnt lie, if it shows no signal then there is no signal. If you are 100% sure the wiring is correct then it is possibly some odd type of active sensor. If you unplug the loom from the ECU and measure resistance between the trig 1 wire/pin and the shield/gnd wire/pin in the ecu plug what resistance do you get?

That is not an error, that is just telling you you hit the launch limiter.

I dont see any obvious ecu related misfires in your log, no cuts commanded etc. I notice your trigger offset is still at zero, have you checked the base timing? Have you tried adding 15% fuel just to see if it is better or worse?