Adamw

The EJ25 trigger mode expects to see the common 36-2-2-2 crank pattern and a 3 tooth (4-1) pattern on the LH Inlet cam (back of head). You will need to use the matching hall sensor that is designed for that cam/head. You will need to run a new wire to supply power to the third pin. You will have to do the same to the sensor on the RH side if you have AVCS.

Ok, I can see why it is not happy, one of the cam teeth edges is sitting right on top of the crank edge that the ecu uses to sync. Something a bit weird with the position of your cam teeth compared to our internal records and all pics I can find online. Has this engine been apart? What do they have for teeth on the cam - are the teeth part of the camshaft or are they on a disk that can be moved? Here's a pic from the FSM, notice the cam teeth are nicely sitting in an un-toothed area on the crank: Compare to yours, the raising edge on the cam is very close to a rising edge on the crank: One thing I would like you to try - switch back to the "OBD2" trigger mode, but change trigger 2 to rising instead of falling.

Try this, I have changed quite a few of the idle settings as it only had a very basic open loop config. May need another log or two yet to get it dialed in. SubaruV43378 new idle.pclx

13-20kpa is over-run rather than coasting. Lambda is irrelevant in that area, you have very unstable combustion due to so little oxygen in the chamber. You are probably also working in a non-linear region of Injector PW so that gives you even less relationship to commanded fuel.

(note MAP sensor ground is 71, not 72). Ok, so it seams somehow your MAP sensor might be grounded to the chassis (maybe its ground wire has been spliced in to something else along the way? . It should be grounded to Pin 71 according to the wiring diagram I have. If you unplug the ecu and MAP, do you have good continuity from MAP ground to pin 71? Are they the same colour wires both ends? Pin71 should also be the ground for the TPS and coolant temp sensor, can you confirm they have continuity back to pin 71 and to the MAP ground also.

I merged your two threads into one. The pinout in the help file shows all IO that is connected. Aux 5 & 7 arent available. Yes the displaylink will work over serial.

What is the question?

Hmm, maybe it only disables when antilag cut is active, I cant remember. Another option is set your CLL FTrim tables to 3D and put DI2 on one axis. You can then specify zero trim when DI2 is on.

The jumper connects a pull-up to pin 9, it is needed to make the tacho work on some 1800cc MX5's.

Thats starting to look like something is messed up with the ID's on that USB chip. Is it a brand new ecu or has it just recently stopped working? It may have to come back to Link for repair. Where abouts are you in the world?

attach the tune and a log.

The Antilag will disable the CLL at the same time.

For it to work the OBD2 needs to be enabled in the software, so it likely is turned off. You will need to get it unlocked to set up like below. If you wanted to test, you can save a copy of the current locked tune, then load in an unlocked base map and turn on OBD2 to confirm it works. You can then load the locked tune back in afterwards - obd still wont work, but at least can confirm wiring etc is ok.

The ignitors are the 6 big fet looking devices beside the Aluminium bar heat sink. You would be best to get it back to Link for repair, they are difficult to rework due to all the heat sinking on that area of the board and there is some tricky assembly work.

Attach your tune I’ll take a look

Ethanol is not in the generic dash stream. Did you set up the "extended channels" as per the gaugeart instructions? https://gaugeart.com/instructions/vi-pec-link-g4-ecu-setup/

I guess that could mean either your meter is reading different than the ECU, or there is a 0.2V ground offset somewhere. Can you measure voltage at ecu also, between pin 71 (sensor ground) and 67 (AN V 1). Compare to the voltage you measure between gnd and sig at the map sensor.

Can you do a triggerscope while cranking. Here's how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=S8f0E0

I will add it to the list.

Can you attach the tune and a PC log of it cranking.

You need to adjust the calibration factor in the ECU digital input settings so that the ECU shows the correct speed. The dash will then match.

Get us some triggerscopes at higher RPM, say do one at 5000. Attach your latest tune also.

Attach you latest tune after the firmware update and I will fix some of the idle stuff. It looks like the tune needs a lot of work though.

Not the over-run fuel cut function directly but two ways you could achieve this: ORFC is disabled when antilag is enabled. So you could enable antilag with DI2, but set antilag enable RPM to something like 20000RPM so it never activates, then it will just be used to turn ORFC on & off. You can turn off the native ORFC fuction and instead use a GP RPM limit. Use a virtual aux on one axis, RPM on the other. Set the activation conditions such as TP<0.5% and your DI2 switch in the VA.

I cant tell you any service history (if there is any) as I dont have access to those records at the moment, but 8774 would be an early G4 storm or Vipec V44 series based plug-in ecu, not a G4+.