Adamw

The crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity, swap the +/- wires at the sensor. Then do us another log.

You arent even connected to an ECU in that picture? You need to be connected to the ECU to be able to clear the errors from it memory.

The dwell times in the ST205 base map will be fine. The fuel tables and ign tables in the base map will also be fine as a starting point. Injector deadtimes for the stock injectors are unknown. You can get them in the ballpark by temporarily setting inbjection mode to multipoint and then switching injection rate between 1 and 1/2 engine cycle, the lambda will stay at a similar value if when the deadtimes are close. For the WMI pump you will need a solidstate realay for PWM, I suggest the common Hella one with the standard ISO footprint. The 12V supply to the relay will need to come from an ignition switched source.

I have never used them with eth yet but being an oem fuel pressure sensor when many countries have at least 10% eth in normal pump gas I expect they will be designed for it.

The Evo map will do it. Change number of cyl to 6, input correct firing order, change trigger mode to Mitsi GTO.

It wont work wired to an injector drive. As I said above it can only be an ignition drive with a Fury. Why do you need ecu hold power? Do you have a stepper motor?

These are the notes I had from last time. You need to verify these yourself on your car however as there seem to be quite a few variations on these cars.

The frequency setting on the aux output, the speedo settings have no effect when the aux is not set to speedo function. It sounds like you have a wiring problem if the speed sensor is making noise when you switch on aux 2? The speed sensor should not have any connection to aux 2.

The GTR base map is set up as alpha N for the ITB's. If you have a single throttle you will probably be better to use the GTS base map which is set up as speed density, more suitable for a single throttle. A idle valve is good for fast idle during warm-up and also if there are variable idle loads such as air-conditioning. If that is not important to you then you will generally be able to achieve reasonable idle manners without it. Do you have check valves etc so that you can run staged pumps? Its not always a nice way to do it as you will get a spike in fuel pressure when the 2nd pump turns on. But if you want to do it that way then just change the conditions on Aux two to activate when you want - for instance MAP > 100kpa.

No, you would set the aux to "test pwm" and then change the frequency to confirm the speedo responds to different frequencies.

The last time I looked at it for someone Im pretty sure that most of the early GTO's use an ecu similar to the Evo1-3. But as you have pointed out there are some small differences such as the #3 coil and fuel pump or A/C from memory. So if they are selling an ecu for an early GTO, it is possibly a modified Evo3 ecu, not something that is supplied by Link.

Your exhaust cam is in the fully retarded position in that trigger scope. If the Exhaust solenoid was showing positive duty cycle when that scope was taken, then the cam should have been fully advanced. Is it possible you have the advance/retard solenoids wired in reverse? FYI, when in the normal home position (fully advanced) the edge that I have highlighted in pink below would be somewhere around where I have drawn the green line (~2 teeth before the missing tooth area on crank).

TP sensor: LG/W is the signal, this should go to ECU pin 7. BR/B is ground. LG/R is 5V, this should go to ECU pin 8. R/W is not needed for the Link ECU. So first check you have 5V when measured between BR/B & LG/R. Then confirm you have a voltage that varies with TP movement coming out of the LG/W wire.

I reckon trig 1 probably looks correct, just no signal on trig 2.

16816 is a G4. Download PC Link V4.10.2 from here: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink V4.10.2.1784 Setup.exe

If it is an ECU that has P&H injector drives (Fury, Xtreme or Thunder), then the ECU hold power will need to be an ign drive rather than injector drive, the P&H inj drives will back feed if connected to a permanently live source.

You have no ignition switch on DI3 so the ECU is cutting fuel and spark. The way DI3 is set up is there should be 12V on DI3 pin when ignition switch is on, you dont have 12V there so it suggests a wiring problem. Also, it looks like you have a trigger problem too, so even when you fix the ignition switch it still wont go. Can you do a triggerscope while cranking and attach that here. How to do triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=QTUGac

No that doesnt describe it at all. Lambda average is the average of all of the lambda sensors that are connected to the ecu (you can have up to 8). The way the fail safes work is if a sensor controller reports an error then it's lambda is zeroed out, the lambda average calculation ignores any sensors that are reporting zero lambda and removes them from the lambda average calculation. In your case you only have one sensor and it is reading zero lambda so it is being removed from the lambda average calculation. The lambda average error is because it cant generate a lambda average when there are no sensors left that are working. You dont need to hack anything up, just pull the existing #4 pin out of the loom plug at the sensor and run a new temporary wire direct to the battery. It could just be a bad crimp or similar. This is the easiest thing to eliminate, really the only other possibilities are a faulty ecu or faulty sensor, both of which will cost money to eliminate.

Drop your idle proportional down to 1.0 and your anti stall gain down to about 2.5. Let us know if that settles it.

attach the triggerscope file and your tune.

email [email protected] and they will give you an RMA form or similar to arrange the mod. Yes, 36-1 or similar missing tooth crank wheel will be a good option and give you all you need for wasted spark and multigroup injection. No need or advantage for a cam sensor in this case. Going crank trigger, getting rid of the distributor and having 3D mapable ignition will transform an old engine like this.

ok, use this one. TOMSNissanR32-R34GTRG4XtremePlugin1.1.pclr

Ok, I have fixed the fuel pump set up. As for your analog inputs, the oil pressure had the calibration setup wrong so I have set it as a 150psi sensor for now. Your fuel pressure sensor calibration doesnt look right either so confirm what sensors you have and I will tell you how it should be set. TOMSNissanR32-R34GTRG4XtremePlugin1.0.pclr

I will reply in your other thread.

You have lambda error 2 showing and it seems to appear quite regularly whenever RPM drops below about 1500. I would be suspicious of maybe the 12V supply to pin 4 of the lambda sensor is dipping in voltage. The ECU is reporting decent battery voltage but I dont know where the lambda probe gets its 12V from. I would try investigating that in the first instance, maybe even run a temporary wire down to the sensor from the battery or similar as a test.