Adamw

The RPM still shots straight up until it hits the limiter. So air is getting in somewhere. Either the throttle blade/bypass is not closed enough, the idle valve is not closed or you have air getting in through a leak. I cant remember what the Evo 5 idle valve looks like but you should be able to pull the housing off and either visually see if it is shut or try blowing through it to confirm. If that looks ok then put the valve back on and adjust either the throttle stop or BISS screw if it has one so that it barely idles - say 600/700RPM.

Have you changed either the ecu or dash config from the one I attached? Is so please attach your latest so I dont undo all your setup.

When you say "I dont receive any data", does that mean nothing is working on the dash? Does realdash say "connected to link ECU" or similar at the bottom?

Attach your map and I will take a look.

Definitely looks solid in that one. Good work.

There is a 5Kpa difference in BAP, that is a bit more than typical but is likely just environmental/weather conditions. The problem is more so the big difference between the two fuel table cells.

You can still try more delay, it should allow up to 200us. Having said that, 1 deg drift is about as good as your eye can see so I generally wouldnt be bothered to get it any better than that. 2. TP(sub) is only required for electronic throttle where the Link ECU is controlling the throttle. In your case it is not needed. I would expect VTA is the correct TP main signal. 3. Yes your log looks fine. Drive it easy, keep it off boost. I would suggest you copy the charge temp approximation table out of the Monsoon base map so your map has a reasonable starting point and the tuner doesnt miss it.

The resolution of that parameter is 0.0016ms so it will round the entered value to the nearest increment.

This doesnt sound like it is a Link ecu, if it is a factory ecu you are probably better asking on a Toyota forum.

The difference is from the fuel table number, you have a big jump in VE numbers between the -60 & -55Kpa cell. Older log is the pink overlay. In the same spot as above, the earlier log is working in this cell: The later log is working here:

I suspect the DI pull-up is meant to be on so it should go to 12V when the pressure switch is open. Did you do your voltage tests above with the pull-up on or off? If pull-up was off, can you do another test with it on to see how different it is.

I know TPS calibration is stored as part of the tune. I assume the same for the small MAP offset that is done during the MAP cal but im not 100% sure on that.

I must have downloaded the same file twice. Now I have another look, there are a few differences, would really need to see the logs.

Im very suspicious the idle valve is not working. Have you checked there is +12V on the two center pins with ign on? One last try, this map will force the idle valve fully closed (if the valve/wiring does actually work). If it is still revving to the moon with this one then the valve is not working - or air is getting in some other way like the throttle blade is open too far or a big air leak etc. evohuntingidle5.pcl

Can you try trig 1 arming threshold like this and see if it is any more consistent cranking RPM:

I dont see any differences in the two tunes. I would be comparing all the fuel and and air related parameters in the two logs.

Yes, smaller master fuel number gives less fuel, larger gives more.

If you had a spare Aux out you could do your analog input trick. Connect an aux direct to a DI with a wire link. Then set up the aux output to turn on when analog input is below say 3V. The FD plug-in ECU has a zener diode and pull-down resistor added to bring the voltage down. An easy option maybe to put 3 x silicon diodes in series with your DI, this will drop your voltage by about 2.1V.

Provided you have the same tune loaded, the same log loaded and the same mixture map settings then you will get the same results.

Its pretty hard to imagine how a starter motor could case a spike like that. Im not confident from my experience with the 6022BE that the scope might be the culprit rather than real noise... Does the noise always look like a sharp spike like this, even with ignition disconnected? Is it always only below zero volts like the 2nd image? How about cranking with the spark plugs out (low compression/low starter current) - still noise on the scope? Its not unusual for RPM to jump around a lot while starting high comp/low inertia 4 cyl engines. Can you give us a log of it cranking/starting so I can see how bad it is.

No there is only one small change in the fuel calculation between 5.6.5 & 5.6.7. This was a fix to allow the charge temperature to go negative. This would typically only have an effect on users in a very cold climate using ethanol or methanol and when the engine is cold.

The switching threshold on the digital inputs is about 1.2v, so it’s not going to work when your voltage is always above 1.2v both on and off. I’m pretty sure the plug in ecu has a couple of diodes in series to lower the voltage. I’ll check tomorrow and see if I can come up with a suggestion.

Ok, that is a big unknown. I have never seen anyone use one so have no idea how they respond or if they are usable.

Assuming you have a mac valve? The mac valves were originally for industrial compressed air pneumatics so should work fine up to a couple of hundred psi. I would suspect either it is just failing or if it is new it is potentially a fake.

The Hella relays are good for 1000Hz. That is not to say your motor will be, but the relay itself is capable provided the load is acceptable.