Adamw

If those run wasted spark coils then it would be important the spark plugs are resistor type and the leads are a suppressed/resistance type. Make sure the ignitor has a very god ground, preferably to the engine block.

Ok, for now set the error low to 0.0 and error high to 5.00, this will disable the error overrides so they dont confuse our diagnosis. If temp still shows something low like -40°C with these error settings turned off then that means either there is no connection to the sensor or it is open circuit. If it shows high temperature then it means the sensor is a dead short to ground.

The only other suggestion I have is when you next play with it, look at the "ecu status" tab of the runtimes screen. In Link mode if there is CAN comms you will have lambda temp and status displayed on this tab.

You can in fact turn charge temp approximation on in traditional mode, it will often work better than using IAT compensation alone. It applies an ideal gas law based correction to the approximated charge temp. From memory it is zero correction at 20°C, with 0.3% fuel added or removed per 1°C temp change from there (~3% per 10deg).

Cant tell from your photos - does the white wire at the ecu end connect to the brown wire at the spartan end, and the green wire connects to the spartan white? The instructions are for a spartan configured in the "Link mode" which is the suggested method as it gives more failsafes. The spartan used to default to ID 950 when set to link mode but it looks like he's made a few changes lately so I dont know it that has changed or not.

Thats a good catch. This suggests your problem is either a failing cam sensor or a bad connection in its wiring somewhere. Once the engine is running, the ecu is smart enough to keep track of engine position using only the crank sensor so will actually keep running happily even if the cam sensor "disappears" intermittently, so you wouldnt notice if this was happening during normal running. But for starting the cam signal is needed to synchronize and the engine wont be able to start without it, so this why the problem is probably only noticeable during start up. Give the wiring a good visual and tug the crimps etc. If that looks ok then it would be worth trying another sensor. This would be the sensor that is at the front top of the left cyl head.

Yes, this is correct. Is the error low set to 0.05 & the error high to 4.95?

Are you using Evo 1-6 triggermode? - You should be. Have you been through the "pre-start checks" in the manual - checked all sensors are reading correct, set base timing, adjusted master fuel etc?

Your ignition map (the bottom photo) looks fine, that is close enough to run the engine fine. If it doesnt run fine with this then your problem is not due to the ignition timing table.

Yeah, something wrong with your cam sensor/wheel, it appears to match the older Evo 1-6 pattern but it is upside down/inverted compared to an evo 1-6. It doesnt match the Evo 7-9 pattern at all. It will not work like this. You will need to find the correct evo style cam trigger.

Can you give us some photos of how the CAN is connected to the ECU. Your setup in the attached tune looks fine assuming the spartan was in Link mode.

Connect PC Link to the ECU, ignition on, the online/offline indicator at top right of screen should turn green and say online when connected (may have to hit F3 if not set to auto-connect). As soon as it is connected it will pull a copy of the tune from the ecu and you will have it displayed on screen, all you need to do then is go >file>save as.

That sounds to me like you have the coils wired in the wrong pairs. Coil for cyl 1 & 4 should be wired to ign 1 drive and coil 2 & 3 should be wired to ign 2. You can use the ignition test function to manually check the correct coils are sparking when you test ign 1/2. Otherwise if that looks correct then as Richard says, attach your map and a log.

Did you click the capture button while the engine was turning like the video shows? These triggerscopes look like they were captured before the engine was turning. Or maybe the battery is flat and the PC is disconnecting during cranking? Does the green "online" indicator stay green while cranking?

You can use the ignition test function to test the coils are sparking. If you closed the plug gap up to 0.5mm and it didnt improve the misfire then the suggestion would be it is not ignition energy related. You might have to get it to a tuner or someone experienced involved.

If thats what AFR your engine needs to idle happy then so be it, run it at that. It is more likely a poor spray pattern problem than anything PW related since they will be a decapped injector.

Have you confirmed that the base timing (trigger offset) is correct yet? Assuming your engine is not turbo you can use the attached ignition map as a starting point. To load this table, right mouse click on your existing ignition table, then choose > import/export>import from file and choose this file. Basic NA Ignition Table 1.lte

The cruise light function doesnt work at present. It is a known problem that I reported a while ago. Sorry for the time you spent trying to diagnose... I will ask @Simon to make sure it is on the fix it list.

Im not convinced the trigger is happy, there's a few trigger errors clocked up and the cranking RPM is bouncing between 155(normal) and 450(not normal). Can you do a trigger scope when cranking. Here's a quick video showing how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=B0Uvsg You MAP appears to be reading correctly. There was a big spike in MAP when you first started cranking which caused the boost cut to kick in but I suspect that may have been a back fire?

For temp sensors there is a bit of info in the help file page: Technical Terms and Reference > Sensor Calibrations, but at lot of the time it just comes with experience... For the oil press/temp, I suspect you have a PST-F1 (not the PST-1 map sensor?). These use a common industry standard calibration. Set the temp input to "Std Bosch NTC", set the pressure input to "1000Kpa TI sensor". Factory water temp should be "Std Bosch NTC", a quick way to check is measure its resistance at room temp (about 20°C), it should be near 2500 ohms. General motors generally use the "Delphi AC" calibration so the trans temp and IAT will most likely match that. You can confirm again with a quick resistance test, delphi is usually 3300-3500 ohms at room temp. The GM MAP sensor (assuming it is the old school delphi one with weatherpack connector) and AEM 100psi sensor need to use a custom calibration, suggest Cal 4, 5 or 6, set up like this: AEM 100psi: GM/Delphi 1Bar MAP:

There is no such feature in the G4. Assuming the AFR is running close to target under most other conditions then you will just have to adjust the cells in the main fuel table in the high vacuum/cruise areas.

I would try something like my changes in red below, this gets rid of most of the odd cells that dont seem to fit in with the rest of the general fuel map shape.

Triggerscope looks good, polarity is correct, alignment is good and voltages are normal. So apart from just disconnecting the original coil/ignitor that was inside the distributor, did you change any of the other wiring - grounds or the trigger wires?

Im not very familiar with the 2G platform as we never got them here in NZ, but a good place to start would be a short PC log of it cranking. Here's a vid showing how to set it up if you are new to it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Can you give me a bit of info about the 2G - do they have wasted spark coils with ignitiors built-in like similar to an Evo8? Do they have a similar trigger to an Evo 8 cam & crank? I vaguely remember one of the USA DSM's had the cam sensor signal inverted compared to the Evo but I think that might have been the 1G.

yep looks good now.