Adamw

Can you clarify what you are saying here - are you seeing the timing light flash at 40BTDC when checking the timing with the set base timing screen open?

The only wire you should need to move would be the fan on pin 9. The fan wire can be moved to whichever of pin 105 or 106 is not being used. Ign 2 & 3 on pin 2 & 8 should already be empty slots as far as I remember.

Ok, thats odd. The only way I can imagine the old name being associated to a G4X would be if someone had done a force install of the G4+ driver. Can you right mouse click on the Link electrosystems device in your device manager, then choose uninstall device, and make sure "delete the driver software" option is checked. Once that is uninstalled, go to C:\Link G5\PCLink G5\Link USB Drivers and run the "LinkUSBDrivers_x64.exe" to install. Let me know if device manager looks better then.

No you want be able to do a stepper motor with the V3/4 plug-in, it doesnt have Aux 5 or 7 available or the ECU hold power circuit to reset the idle valve after power off. I dont know the interchangeability of the various manifolds/throttles/idle valves for the early EJ's very well so cant off much advice on the hardware, but you will need a 2 or three-wire idle valve.

The CAN set up looks correct. Make sure in the analog input menu, Lambda 1 sensor control is set to "Link CAN"

Guilty Garages set up would achieve what you want. Just the start position for "MAP" or whatever you are sending to the gauge should be 39 rather than the 55 shown. The other way to do a constant rather than the mathblock is just to use any parameter, set the multi to 0 and offset to the static value you want.

A25 is the main ECU supply, that is fine to use, or you can use the "pin9" +12V wire in the original distributor plug.

Knock level global and knock level detected are not very useful runtimes when using the (older) ign/fuel trim strategy as the knock level global is basically the raw signal from the sensor with no windowing applied as far as I remember. I cant remember if it has the frequency filter applied or not either. Knock level detected was originally added for the normalised mode which uses knock level normalised so is more useful with that strategy. "Knock count global" will increment if any individual knock level exceeds the threshold so that is a good one to monitor for a quick overview where/if knock has occurred.

Bearing in mind I have no idea where the map came from or its history there could be many issues hiding in it, but it looks ok from a quick glance. In fact it looks like it is probably a copy of one of my old start up maps that I made for someone. Check all sensors read realistically, check base timing, adjust master fuel and idle base position until it runs reasonable, check fan cycles on/off if fitted, and from there you should be ok to drive it gently in my opinion.

Are you sure it is a G4X? I think the "Link Electrosystems ECU" USB ID would suggest it is an older G4+ series ecu. You will need to install G4+ PC Link.

What is happening in this video? Are you moving the blade by hand? The voltage would suggest the E-throttle module is dead, but you wouldnt hear any motor noise if there was 0 volts going to the motor, so one of those statements doesnt seem to fit.

The log file only has one start-up in it (in the middle when ECT = 90°C), possibly the ecu disconnected during the cold start? Your engine is using the S2000 trigger mode, not the K20 mode that I assumed earlier, and there are a couple of odd observations related to the trigger. The trigger scope shows the engine slows down a lot as each piston comes to TDC compression, the crank speed is normal with about 260RPM at BDC, but drops to 120RPM at TDC. Does it sound like it cranks unusually slow and/or uneven like an engine does with a drained battery? Is there any known reason for this such as a light flywheel, higher than stock compression ratio or small/relocated battery etc? Possibly related to this is it appears to take longer than normal for the ECU to determine that the crank is actually turning - in this hot start log there is only about 0.5s delay after the starter signal that the ecu reports RPM, but even this small delay will mess up some startup strategies a little such as the fuel pump is not running when pre-crank prime occurs and a large drop in fuel pressure during crank enrichment etc. And this delay could potentially be worse when cold. Can you get us a log of a cold start and another scope capture with a cold engine. If you could also try getting another variation of the scope capture on a different occasion by clicking the capture button at about the same time or just slightly before you engage the starter so we hopefully capture what happens as the crank just starts to move.

I dont see much wrong in your most recent log. An offset somewhere close to zero will usually be close enough to start most toyotas with a distributor - this means the G1 or G2 tooth is close to the sensor at TDC, it doesnt mean the injector timing is right but the spark will be somewhere near TDC and the distributor will be sending it to the correct cylinder. If your timing light shows you have a regular spark and it is occurring somewhere close to the timing mark then I would be concentrating more on the fuel side. A squirt of starter fluid when cranking is a quick test to verify that fuel is the problem.

Airflow is roughly proportional to RPM, so at lower RPM you have less airflow, you dont need as much throttle area to achieve the maximum flow rate that the engine can acheive. At low RPM you will typically reach full manifold pressure/full torque before the throttle is wide open, opening the throttle beyond this point does not achieve anything, often you may even lose a little torque compared to the opening that gives peak torque. With single throttle plenums the loss/gain is usually small, probably ~<2% typically in my experience, but can be more significant with ITB's. With e-throttle it is still usually worthwhile spending the extra 10 minutes mapping maximum throttle opening against RPM.

I compared a couple of points with similar operating conditions in the before and after logs and the Injector PW's look pretty similar so I tend to agree that it seems the lambda values in at least one of the logs doesnt seem right. There are some fuel trims that dont show in the Inj PW runtime such as async fuel, knock trims, CLL, etc, so I have possibly missed something, or something has since been turned off in the recent map, but I dont see anything obvious. One further thought is you are on quite old firmware and there have since been a couple of fixes which may be having an influence on the lambda measurement. The exhaust press compensation value in the notes below is the main one that springs to mind, although I dont remember it having a big effect when testing and its hard to imagine how it would cause a change 2 years later (BAP is a little different), so it would be worth updating the firmware to rule those possibilities out.

That is the same log file as your previous post.

Yes you can use a common seimens or continental ethanol sensor to receive ethanol content and temperature into the ecu, however there is no true flex fuel functionality in these older ecu's. You can use 4D tables to vary fuel and ign with ethanol content as well as stuff like boost, but there will be compromises for some functions like cold start etc.

Did you try both options? Are they really only 310cc injectors? They wont get you very far with E85. Your first few cranks had very low fuel pressure so with the FP comp enabled this has resulted in a very long PW. In the last couple of cranks the fuel press is better, but still lower than expected, this coupled with the lambda target of 0.78 and the 120% VE in the fuel table is still giving you are very long PW so I would say its getting too much fuel assuming all hardware is working. Otherwise it looks like all the basic necessities of life are present.

I would suggest you download race studio 3 and have a go at setting up a config so you can see what sort of display pages are available. You can have up to 8 different "display pages" set up, you can swap between those with the buttons on the dash, external wired buttons, or automate with conditions such as display the "warm up" page when the coolant temp is under 40°C. The pages can all have different layouts. The page layouts are relatively fixed but there is a decent range of styles to choose from, you can change what channels are displayed, the colours, and various font settings for each field. Some pages have configurable icons you can set up as indicator or warning lamps etc. There are two further pages for displaying camera inputs. Currently available layouts:

It would usually be the dealer or tuner you are purchasing through that provides advice for what you need for your application and goals. What model car do you have? A plug-in ecu would be the recommended option in most cases.

Check the help file page: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Trigger Inputs > Specific Trigger Applications > Toyota 24 Tooth

Typically the factory ecu just wont allow fuel and spark when the immobiliser is not satisfied. Since you have a different ecu controlling fuel and spark the immobiliser will likely be of little consequence in this case. You will need to check the starter still works when immobilised but usually they do.

I think it will need either a lighter 5V pull-up, or another thing you could try is connecting a small signal diode in line with the signal, something like a 1N4148 will do (stripe pointing to ecu), this should drop the voltage seen at the ecu by about 0.6V.

How confident are you that the new sensor is a genuine bosch part? Initially nothing in your log gave me the impression that there was any issue with the lambda reading, it sits on target 90% of the time and only drifts rich at higher loads so I was leaning more towards it being something like a MAP sensor or fuel press issue. But I do notice about halfway through your log the lambda reports error 54, which although is something that could occur from a very rich mixture, I have only personally ever seen that error from a broken or fake sensor. So I do have a little suspicion. Do you have any older logs from a time when lambda looked more normal so we can compare PW's etc?

The DI thresholds are determined by hardware, adjustable thresholds on high frequency digital inputs add significant complexity and cost. Are you sure the VSS is grounded to sensor ground? Assuming it is then I would say the only way to get that sensor to switch to ground as it should would be to put less power through it. I would try turning the internal pull-up off and add a 5kohm pull-up to 5V (DI's are normally pulled up to 12V).