Adamw

Are you using a Link ECU? E6 is just the enable signal to turn the relay on that supplies 12V to one side of the solenoid, intercepting that will achieve nothing, it will be "on" the whole time the engine is running. The solenoid is actually controlled by E4. But as already mentioned, this uses peak and hold control. Since the valve will already be in "hold" phase, how are you going to measure and control the hold current with an SSR? You cant just ground that pin as it will go over current and melt the coil.

If the run time value shows -36deg then the problem is in your tune somewhere. That is the timing that the ECU is commanding.

I know very little about this particular engine or even diesels in general, but generally a spill valve needs to be precisely fired synchronous with the camshaft position and it would also typically need a peak and hold driver. An SSR will not be capable of either. Here is a nice Russian? picture showing the P&H signal on a scope and how it is synchronised to crankshaft:

It is still not happy with the trigger. Can you attach a copy of you map again. I think you are going to have to get someone to get a scope capture of the trigger 1 (crank) and trigger 2 (front cam sensor) so we can see why the ECU is not happy about the signal it is getting from them.

In the map that you attached yesterday the trigger mode was set to EJ25AVCS, did you change it since yesterday?

When you say "charge temp" do you mean IAT? What function is AN Temp 2 set to?

Ok, I havent seen a EJ25 like that but it sounds like it uses the V7 EJ20 type trigger. Try setting the trigger mode to Subaru V7-10(JDM) and see if you get RPM.

That is windows RT. Windows RT is not full windows, it is an stripped down orphan of windows 8 that used a special processor and could only run specific (very limited) microsoft store apps. It cannot run any common windows applications and cannot be upgraded. You will not be able to use this tablet for PC Link (or much else...)

As far as I know the EJ25 AVCS engine doesnt normally have a front cam sensor, only the two rear ones. I thought only the EJ20 AVCS has both a single front sensor and two rear sensors. Are the rear sensors 2 wires or 3 wires?

Also, why do you have two DI's set up to cam position? There should only be two cam sensors on this engine, the LH one should be connected to trigger 2 and the RH one should be connected to a DI.

Assuming a hall sensor on the crank and the opto CAS, setup would be similar to this:

Set up below will mean the IC spray cycles automatically above 130Kpa MAP, only when the IC spray switch is set to auto. If it is set to off the spray will stay off.

While not impossible to make a PWM output drive a temp gauge, it will potentially be a heap of messing around to make it work. You will need to rig up either a resistance substitution to fool the ECU into seeing different known temps, while adjusting the PWM to make the gauge reading match, or use something like a hot pot of oil heated to different temps while you calibrate the gauge. The recommended option would be to have separate sensors. If you had to use a PWM output, the wiring would be temp gauge signal wire direct to aux 1-8, and the gauge ground wire I would connect to chassis ground rather than the ECU sensor ground.

No that wont work (at least not for long at ~200Hz). Why are you so against wiring the coils in pairs? I have attached a more common method to control a 3 pin idle valve but as I say, the smarter choice would be to pair up the coils. 3 Wire ISC with 1 Aux.pdf

what ecu do you have, a G4 or G4+?

The charge light is controlled by Virtual aux 2. In that example map I attached earlier it is set to switch on the light if battery voltage is below 12V.

yep.

I suspect your fuel pressure sensor cal is wrong (hence your fuel pressure is wrong). A 100psig sensor would normally be 0.5V @ 0Kpa and 4.5V @ 689Kpa, you have values 100Kpa higher than that. (Some of the AEM datasheets are stupid with the Kpa calibration in absolute and the psi calibration in gauge for some reason). It should be like this:

With the 12 tooth option, the position of the cam tooth is quite critical as there is nothing on the crank to identify where TDC is. Im not sure how clear this description will be but Im struggling to come up with a good explanation today: With the 12 tooth set up, the only way the ECU knows which tooth on the crank represents TDC is by using the cam tooth as a index to tell it which tooth on the crank to start counting degrees from. This generally works well provided you make sure that the cam tooth is set up to occur reasonably centered between two crank teeth. The potential problem comes if you have the cam edge too close to a crank edge - then with some cambelt stretch or valve train resonance etc the position of that cam tooth bounces around and may cross over that crank edge so the ecu then starts counting degrees from the next tooth rather than from the one it is meant too. If you ecu has a built-in scope and the cam trigger position is adjustable then no dramas - its easy to check the cam tooth is occuring nicely between two crank teeth. But with an older ecu with no scope or if there is no mechanical adjustment then it can be more of a headache. In contrast, with a missing tooth crank trigger the crank now has a unique identifier on it which can be used to determine where TDC is. The index tooth is the tooth immediately after the missing teeth so this is where the ECU starts counting degrees from. The only thing the ECU checks with the cam sensor is whether or not a cam tooth occurred in the last revolution or not, it doesnot care where abouts that tooth occurred, it is only used so it knows whether the upcoming TDC is compression or exhaust stroke. There are still some rules that apply such as you dont want the cam tooth to occur near the missing tooth area but still it is much more flexible (about 300° of freedom rather than about 15° in the 12tooth scenario so you can just eyeball it).

If it were me I would just wire the coils in pairs, then you dont need to buy or facbricate anything and there is no downside unless you wanted to do individual cylinder ignition trims which is not usually needed with ITB's.

Yeah, as per rrob, the R34GTT is a completely different connector, although the ecu will be capable of running the engine ok, you will need to do a significant rewire to make it work, none of it is even remotely close. You are probably better to ship that ecu back to Link for a "Bottom board swap", that will effectively convert it into a direct plug-in GTT ecu. The cost to do that is a bit under NZD$300 (well it was last I heard), so it will likely work out far cheaper than chopping the loom up and re-terminating 100 odd wires.

Connect the laptop to the ecu(green online indicator showing at top right), upon connection PC link will pull a copy of the tune out automatically and display it on the screen live, you then go >file>save as.

That suggests the ecu is not powered up. As per the manual you may have to try the wrx/sti jumper in the alternative position

I thought the 20v just had a 2 wire idle valve? (Some Toyota’s have a 3 pin plug but only two wires connected). If not there are still a couple of options: 1. You could wire the coils in pairs and fire them wasted spark. 2. There is a simple circuit you can add to drive a 3 pin idle valve from a single aux.

36-2 would be my preference, it means the positioning of the cam sync is much less critical.