Adamw

The Monsoon doesnt have knock control. Neither is needed. Yes, not very useful, better to wire directly to a warning light on dash. If connected to ECU you could set up an oil pressure limiter but since most only switch on at about 4psi your bearings are already gone by then. Not sure what you are asking here, do you mean just there magnetic wheel speed sensor? No that should be set up already, just do the MAP calibration when first powered up. Ign 1 to pin 1. Yep, pin 19 if you want it. I wouldnt bother personally unless economy/emissions is important to you. If its a heated sensor it should have the heater connected, it doesnt need to be connected to the ECU, just give it 12V & gnd. 21 and 29. or you can connect 21 to gnd out and 29 to Shield/gnd. Yep. See #8 above. Yep, SR20. That was really my first serious EFI engine about 20 years ago.

I done the testing for the RX8 throttle characterisation that is in the help file. The power supply that I have on my desk is only capable of 2.5A and I dont remember having any dramas when testing it. That is about the best hint I can give you. Allow for about 5A and you will be good.

What type of sensors does this original rotor use - are they two wire (reluctor) or 3 wire (hall/optical)? If it is reluctor then all teeth would need to be the same "length", it it is hall then the one long tooth will be fine as long as 1 edge of each tooth is evenly spaced.

Has it got a cam sensor as well?

There are many ways to achieve antilag. But if its going to be used on the road you will really want an air bypass system that can be turned off so that you dont need cyclic idle on all the time, which makes drivability poor. So this means either converting to Electronic throttle or fitting some sort of throttle kicker solenoid or air bypass solenoid. Also since you will have no vacuum for the brake booster when antilag is on you will have to either fit non-vacuum assisted brakes or some sort of vacuum pump and reservoir.

Ok, leave it alone then, it is not an injector resistor. Im just trying to find a pinout for your airflow meter plug to confirm air temp sensor wires. The black with light green stripe is sensor ground, connect this to one of the IAT pins. The red with black stripe is the temp input, connect this to the other IAT pin.

Actually, Im not convinced what you have there is actually an injector ballast. Do the injectors still click with that unplugged? Our wiring diagram doesnt show one.

What you are seeing sounds normal. The GTX's and GTR's were batch fire, the injectors are wired in pairs. When you do a test on Injector drive 1 you should get both injector 1 & 3 clicking. When you do a test on injector drive 2 then injectors 2 & 4 should click. Injector drives 3 & 4 arent connected to anything in the stock loom. Edit - added later: Injection mode should be set to multipoint group and you should bypass that resistor.

I have made some changes to your map. You can use the map compare function in PC Link to see what I have changed if you like. But basically it looks close enough. A couple of unknowns: The ECCS widest slot setting I think is meant to be 9deg for all nissans with a distributor, if you get no RPM when cranking then do the ECCS sync test to confirm. Trigger offset is also unknown, you will have to confirm this with a timing light. As we discussed on the phone, Trigger 1 should be connected to the pin 31 "1 Deg" signal. Trigger 2 should be connected to the pin 22, 180 deg signal. Other stuff should be pretty self explanatory. SR16VE_Locost_Clubman2.pclr

You need to be sure that it is ok to run more boost than expected but if so you can just add another 20KPa to the numbers in your MAP limit table should prevent it from interfering. Set up your idle ignition and speed sources like below should help with the low speed drivability.

You will need a crank sensor and a cam sensor. Pretty much any common generic pattern will be ok. The Crank signal needs to go to pin B16, the cam signal needs to go to pin B12. ECU Sensor ground are pins B11 & B15.

I dont think you have a trigger problem. It looks like you are hitting the MAP limit (boost cut). It happened twice in that log, once about 8 minutes in and again about 20mins in near the end. Your MAP limit is set to 380Kpa, and you are getting to about 373Kpa in the logs. The MAP limit if using our default settings will start to limit 10Kpa early. Also, just so you are aware, your tune has some fairly weird setup on the idle ignition control, it is activating pretty much any time you are below 2500RPM retarding timing to zero degrees, so I suspect that makes it drive a bit odd at small throttle openings.

As well as what CJ says, can you do us another log with the throttle actually moved more than 5%, that may make it more obvious.

Do 1 at idle and another at say 5000rpm

Did you do the trigger scope?

The physical Aux 9 output should be connected to the Motor + as per the help file Simon pointed out above. In the software set Aux 4 to "E-Throttle Signal 1" and set Aux 9 to "E-throttle Signal 2".

Except for TP, I dont see anything else too unusual in your log. Are you sure the throttle blade is actually moving?

Attach your tune file, it sounds like you are doing something wrong. It shouldnt add any settings on its own. There is a Pinout for the CANF in the help file. This is looking from the side you solder the wires into:

Didnt they have a distributor and single coil originally? If so you will need an ignitor to drive the coil.

What ECU do you have?

Which tutorial was this? The G4+ will accept fuel table numbers up to 150% in both traditional or Modelled mode and it will work correctly. I think in the old G4 ecu's the limit was 100 or 130?

Those settings are used by the ECU only if you have an aux output set to "engine fan" and that aux output is connected to the fan relay. Just like the ECU has settings for VVT, it does not mean all cars have ECU controlled camshafts.

Yes, if you are using a polarised cap it will need be connected with the correct polarity. However, that is not your problem if the reported fuel level changes when you wiggle the wires - As CJ said above, and I said in your similar facebook post, it is a bad connection. Sensor ground would be preferable provided your fuel level sensor does have its own dedicated ground pin. Many dont and just ground via the fuel tank so you have to use chassis ground in that case.

The fan on the ST205 is not even controlled by the ECU as far as I know? They normally just have a thermo switch in the radiator. So it should work exactly the same as OEM with the Link ECU. If you want to change your car so that the fan is controlled by the ECU, then you will need to change the relay wiring so that it can be triggered by a lowside (ground) signal.