Adamw

I can probably find you something when I’m back at work in about a week. Overseas on holiday at present. There are a couple of example log files installed when you install PC Link but they are many years old (from G4 days from memory) so they probably aren’t great examples of what is possible today.

Change the stoich value to 9.8, this will bring you pretty close to correct. Unless you have flow tested the injectors specifically with e85 then I would make a guess and change injector flow rate to about 1500cc. Most injectors will flow 10-15% less ethanol than their quoted petrol/n-heptane flow rate.

All of the G4+ range with current firmware can log 100 channels to internal memory. Logging frequency is independently assignable for each channel, max 100Hz. The memory size is the same 4MB on all G4+ ecu’s.

Yes, a back feeding aux will keep the ecu powered up and capable of running an engine.

I don’t think the CANSERIAL cable has the CAN pins connected so don’t cut that up. As mentioned earlier you need to make your own using a CANF and DB9

Correct, that won’t work as the CAN wires won’t be connected in the CANserial cable. You will need to make your own using the CANF similar to the dash2pro instructions here: Buy a Female DB9 connector for the race tech end and pinout is here: https://www.race-technology.com/wiki/index.php/CANInterface/PinConnections

Do a trigger scope during cranking and post it here. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

I agree, it would always be better to have a sensor reference the ECU sensor ground, not chassis ground. You will often find the measurement will change when you turn on the headlights or fan when connected via chassis ground. If they confirm the average power consumption is low then just connect the main device ground to ecu sensor ground will solve the problem.

Seems to look ok to me but with the "normalise ratio table" turned on I dont get to see all the relevant info. Can you do the cal again with that turned off and give us a log. I tested your tune on the bench. With a 3000RPM and 30kmh input signal into the ecu, the software displayed 1st gear. with 3000RPM, 50kmh = 2nd. 3000RPM, 70Kmh showed 3rd.

You can load in the 96-99 Civic plugin base map, that will cover most of your set up.

Where abouts are you? We have tech support office in UK and USA now if that is any closer for you.

I dont know for sure how DI1 & 5 work, we have a bit of conflicting info here in our drawings and it is not a problem that I have come across before. I cant find a good evo 3 wiring diagram to see how this circuit works. It appears DI1 is the proper AC request from the switch. It appears that DI5 is only used in some models and is some type of safety pressure switch. I suspect the reason yours is not turning off is there is a ground offset or a bad connection somewhere which prevents the voltage on DI1 going low enough to allow the DI to turn off. It needs to go below about 1.2V. You could try a voltmeter between pin 71 (gnd) and pin 45 (DI1) and record the voltage present there when it wont turn off. A car in good condition I would expect to see 12V there when on and 0V when off.

I think I answered all your questions earlier on webchat but let us know if any question remain after you have a play with PC Link.

AC Clutch polarity should be set to low.

Yes, AN Volt 5 is fine to use. Its function should be set to "Lambda 1" and depending on what model wideband you have you may be able to select a calibration from the drop-down list or you may have to use one of the custom cals (cal 4/5/6). If your wideband device has a separate "analog ground" or "signal ground" then this will also need to be connected to the sensor ground wire on the expansion connector. If it doesnt have a separate signal ground then it will give best results with the main ground wire connected to the engine block or head.

Ok, AC Clutch control is turned off in your map. Set it to basic mode.

It was originally designed for the 1993-1995 M50TUB25 which uses the Bosch M3.3.1 ecu. The Earlier 1993 M50 non-vanos (M3.1 ECU) is very similar but needs about 10wires shuffled around. Unfortunatley there are at least 6 different ECU's fitted to the E36 and they all have different pinouts. It can also be made to work with the S50B32 (Siemens MS50.1) but quite a few wires need to be moved and some new wires added for the vanos solenoids.

Turn off DI5. Then do me a short log with you turning the AC on & off. Engine running. Attach the log and your map here. Here is how to do the Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Have you got a link for the instructions? I only found a datasheet but didnt see that comment on there. Im interested to know the quoted power consumption as if it is relatively low (say <100mA) you could then connect it to sensor ground.

Ok, It sounds like you have done all the right things and Im leaning towards you possibly having a hardware issue. Can you email so we can arrange getting it back to NZ.

Usually if an injector drive fails it shorts to ground so is quite obvious as it fills your engine with fuel. It could possibly be something like a bad connection though. If those injectors use the EV1 connector they are prone to fretting over time so it would be worth pulling the connector apart and check the terminals still have good spring tension and are clean. Try giving the wire/connector a wiggle while it is idling. You could also just try moving the injector #3 wire to another cylinder to see if the problem follows it.

Its a bit hard to tell without a copy of your current tune file but if you think there is too much fuel the first step would be to reduce the master fuel setting.

The calibration of your APS (pedal) and TPS doesnt look right. Did you run the TP and AP calibrations? If so does it fail with an error? Battery voltage is also only showing 6.9V when you saved that file so something is wrong there too. I had a quick look over other basic settings, the only other thing I noticed which doesnt look right is you have injection mode is set to multigroup, it would normally be sequential unless you have wired the injectors in groups.

I would just stick with our suggested petrol value in the help file.

Open the runtimes screen and watch the digital inputs when you switch the AC switch on and off. See if it is DI1 or DI5 that is connected to your switch. Turn off whichever one doesnt respond to the switch status .