Adamw

The voltage you are seeing there matches the stock Supra MAP sensor. Set MAP sensor type to "ST185" and the calibration will work. What made you think you have a 3Bar link sensor? Or maybe it has been wired to a different input, and you still have the stock one in place at the same time?

Is it naturally aspirated/non-turbo?

Probably the best way to do this is with a CAN bus gauge. CAN bus gauges can display multiple parameters from the ECU as well as some have really good configurable alarm/warning systems etc. Unfortunately they are a little expensive if all you want to do is display lambda but that is probably the nicest way to do it. You could also use the realdash app on an android phone/tablet or an ODB2 app or OBD2 gauge. Here's some of the CAN gauges I know of: https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html https://gaugeart.com/product/gaugeart-can-gauge/ I think we could make this work too: https://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series/aemnet OBD2 gauges like this should work also: https://shop.bankspower.com/series-2-idash-1-8-super-gauge.html

The MAP sensor is not working, it is showing 99Kpa all the time. Either the hose has come off of the sensor has failed etc.

This pic is not the right tool but it was the clearest pic I could find online to illustrate (Similar to the T10 but the round cavity is too big on this tool). Ideally, you will have both a round cavity about 1.8-2.0mm and a couple of B cavity size options. And here is the Hozan P706:

Yes, that will be a problem. The ECU cant directly drive a coil. It will pass enough current to give a very weak spark but not enough to spark under cylinder pressure.

The way you have done it will work, but it means when you are cranking (ECU doesnt control timing below 400RPM with the 1/TDC mode) you will be sparking at 0BTDC. It may be a little slow to start like that but I expect it would still fire up fine. It only needs a small cough to get the RPM above 400 where the ecu will start controlling igntion to whatever is in the ign table. Since you know original base timing was 10deg, It would be better to put a new mark at 10BTDC on the pulley, then in the set base timing screen, set the "lock timing to" 10deg. Then when cranking adjust the dizzy until your 10deg mark lines up. You need more than just wet plugs. The idea is to eliminate to possibility that the injectors either arent working or arent injecting enough. If you dont have a can of easy start or something then pinch some gas out of the lawnmower and squirt in it to the manifold with a squeezy bottle of some sort. A teaspoon or two full would be ballpark.

Did you try an alternative fuel such as "easy start" at any time?

Have a look at the 5V out runtime in the ECU status tab, if it is not very close to 5V you have a short in your 5V line somewhere. This would probably give the symptoms you see here.

Also, have a watch of Paul Yaw's seminar on this subject. It can be caused by a range of factors, such as "non-rubber" fuel lines etc, but quite often it is just resonance based. If it is particularly bad at certain RPM's you can often tune that out by changing the length of hose to the FRP reference port. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QF5BmQtXZA&t=409s

That one is not really suitable - that would be a closed barrel crimper. Even though CAN is probably not a highly critical connection, on these particular connectors the crimp needs to be done fairly nicely otherwise the pin doesnt actually fit into the housing after crimping. About the lowest cost crimper I have seen that will do a reasonable job of these superseal 1.0 pins is the T10 micro-crimper. You need an "F" or "B" crimp type cavity for the conductor crimp and a round cavity for the insulation crimp. https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=199-t-10 Hozan P706 is another low-cost tool that can do them well.

I know you specifically said "crank trigger" but thought I would mention also the NZ Wiring Cam trigger kit is very good if you havent come across it before. Obviously, a proper crank trigger is the ultimate but the NZW kit fixes a lot of the problems of the original RB CAS and the difference in timing stability is night and day. The beauty is it bolts straight on, plugs into the existing wiring, job done in 10minutes... https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/services/custom-components/rb-cam-trigger-kits/

Yes, I think this is needed too and I have put it on the wish list.

The coils are not wired to the dizzy. You need to run 4 new signal wires from the ECU pins shown below to the coils. You will also need to run 12V wire from an ignition switched relay to each coil and a ground wire from each coil should attach to the cylinder head or engine block.

To give us some clues what the problem is, go to AN Volt 1 settings, change the error low to 0.0V and the error high to 5.0V. With engine not running, open up runtimes screen (F12) and have a look at the analog tab as shown below. Tell us what voltage is showing on AN 1. With the 3 bar sensor it should be about 1.62V at 100Kpa.

No, there is no user definable damping on analog inputs. It needs to be instantaneous for the ECU to be able to adjust pulsewidth to compensate.

Do a trigger scope now and attach that. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Can you attach your map so I can take a look? Have you updated ECU firmware also?

Yes, that is what I wanted. The MAP limit is caused by your water temp running quite high, the MAP limit has been set up to reduce when water temp goes over 100°C. In the Log your water temp climbs to about 108°C near the end of the log so it is interpolating somewhere between the 248 & 138KPa limit. I dont know if that means you have a cooling problem or you expect it to run that high, so that is up to you to sort out. If that temp is normal then you need to rejig the MAP limit table a little. https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ is a reasonably cost-effective option. They have both generic tuning courses and G4+ software-specific courses For the Throttle it will need to go back to the tuner, it looks like the PID is too agressive to me, he has changed it from or base settings for some reason.

yes, the map itself. Go to >file>save as. It should be a .pclr file. We can look at that assuming the tuner has not password protected it.

RPM It is the MAP limit (boost limit). It appears to be set up a bit weird, something like a 260KPa limit at high RPM but drops to 193Kpa at low rpm (purple trace)? Hard to imagine how it is set up without seeing the map but seems odd. It is when the MAP limit drops that it trips you up. Also, probably not related, but something you need to fix ASAP, it appears you have a problem with your E-throttle control, it becomes very unstable in some areas and it appears that it has been left in setup mode so all safeties are disabled. This could potentially be dangerous.

Hmm, ok, this is not an error I have seen before but the checksum failed message makes me suspect the actual firmware file may be corrupt. So can you try this... First step, disconnect ECU completely from power (unplug) just incase something is not allowing it to power down properly. Reconnect ECU. I have attached a copy of the 4.10.2 firmware, please save this to say your "desktop" (dont put it in the Vipec firmware directory). Open up vts software, then the Firmware updater application. Do not choose the 4.10.2 from the list of available firmwares, but instead use the browse to navigate to the file on your desktop (see pic below), then do the update as normal. When you get to the point where it tells you to "powercycle ECU", again completely unplug ECU and re-plug before clicking OK. Firmware 4.10.2.2046.LFM

Correct setting for spark edge is falling.

No you would usually tune the engine with the limiter set slightly higher than normal so you can correctly tune the topend cells without the limiter interfering, then after tuning bring the limiter back down to a safe level. You need to set dwell that is appropriate for the specific coils. If you dont have a misfire and the coils havent melted then it is probably close enough already. It doesnt matter what numbers are in there (well you dont want very small numbers but 73.5 is good).

This indicates you have two seperate problems. Test mode will work regardless of trigger signal. If you get no spark in test mode then coils must have either no power or a wiring problem. What specific AEM coils are you using? Your trigger settings look ok (except for T2 sync mode mentioned earlier) so it seems you may have a wiring issue with the trigger also.