Adamw

Check the DI pull-up resistor is turned on.

You log shows 3 areas where the RPM limiter has been reduced to 4000RPM due to the diff fuel pressure. Can you try temporarily adjusting that 4000RPM row to the same as the rest of the table and see if that is the problem. Edit: Actually after a closer look, the rev limit thing above doesnt appear to be all of your problem, I see the Lambda go wonky at 4800 with no limiter applied suggesting there is a misfire there. The other thing I would do is reduce dwell time, those coils dont like too much, they overheat with more than about 2.1ms dwell in my experience. Try something like below Still would like to see a triggerscope too please - just at idle will be a start.

Ok, weird. I wonder if this car has one of the odd sensors that inverts at higher RPM. Can you please change trigger 1 setting back to falling. Turn VVT off. Do another triggerscope at about 3000RPM.

It will only remove timing once the threshold is exceeded. It could be you are observing the wrong parameter, or possibly a setup problem, or sometimes I have seen a situation where the logging is not fast enough to capture the small spike in noise above the threshold. Post a log and map so we can take a look. You cant do individual cylinder knock control with wasted spark ignition, you can only control the paired cylinders as a pair. From the help file: "Gains are relative to the Cylinder Allocation, and not the actual cylinder. Gains relating to allocations not defined have no effect." You should only have Cyl 1 and Cyl 3 allocations enabled and only the cyl 1 and cyl 3 gains will work.

What does it have for coils/ignitors? Also attaching a map and log will be useful.

Please do a trigger scope during cranking or idle and attach it here. Also a copy of your map so we can check your settings. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Your cam sensor polarity is reversed, swap wires around. Its also got a bit of a nasty secondary "bump" just after the tooth, we can probably mask that using the arming threshold. Swap the wires and do another triggerscope during cranking and attach that here. After seeing that we'll decide if we can make it work.

to the same wires the original wastegate solenoid connected to.

Pin 4 is AN Volt 4. Set AN Volt 4 to "Lambda 1" set the calibration and check the error low and error high values are ok. If still no go please attach your map and log.

Can you try changing Trig 1 edge to "rising", your trigger 1 is inverted from the normal Mazda 3 pattern. Here is what the ECU expects the Mazda 3 pattern to look like:

It needs to be tuned, fuel and ignition tables dont even look remotely close.

This forum post is mostly about Windows tablets using our PC Link software. PC Link will not work on Android. For android take a look at this:

The 24X sensor is black, the 58X sensor is grey. The sensor must match the wheel that is fitted to the crank. Do you know if your crank wheel and sensor is a "matched pair? 24X wheel looks like below (notice it is 2 wheels sandwiched together) 58X looks like this:

You do not need quicktune to adjust your idle mixture. The first place to start is to adjust the over-all fueling so it is close, use the master fuel to do this (click on master fuel, then page down key). If you need to change a more specific region than that then you can select a few cells in the main fuel table around where it idles and again bump these up or down with the pg up/pg dn. Can you be more specific. What pin is it connected to?

Below is a video showing how to do the triggerscope. Please do one with the VVT turned off and one with the VVT active. Also as CJ says, please attach a copy of your PCLR too. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Then it sounds like they are ok. In a triggerscope log the only parameters that will have any data are called "trigger scope 1" and "trigger scope 2".

does the file size say "0Kb"?

If your crank sensor is the black “24X” type then that test is invalid, they are a dual track sensor to read two separate/sandwiched trigger wheels. They only output something logical when the two sensing elements are at different levels. Did you click capture while it was cranking? The fact that it displays erratic rpm suggests there is a signal there at least some of the time.

then that should be fine. You will need to run new wires to the VCT solenoid etc but thats about all.

But why the boost control function to do the direction control - what does that do that a 2nd GP PWM doesnt? I would have thought the extra conditions that you get with a GP PWM would have been useful. Is it because you only have an ignition drive or something?

Our looms are made from "AVSS", it is a Japanese standard thin wall automotive wire. Most wires are 0.56mm2 cross-sectional area. It is a little hard to find in small qty's. American "TXL" is easier to find, slightly thicker insulation but not too bad.

What is the idea behind using boost control function? Wouldnt it be better to use a GP PWM where you have full control over all the conditions and variables?

I suspect you might just be using the triggerscope wrong. Below is a quick video showing how to do it. Please have another go, the trigger is the most important part to get right. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

You could get the ECU to measure 12V using a simple voltage divider but the thing I dont like about doing this is to get an accurate measurement you will have to connect fuel pump ground (chassis ground) to the ECU sensor ground. This has potential to mess up all your other ECU sensor measurments.

I dont know how powerful they are but the Audi R8 ones are commonly used on performance stuff in Europe. Most of the other VAG coils seem to have a bad reputation for reliability.