Adamw

Pretty much any will be compatible and they will all need a similar amount of work to get connected to the ECU (just 2 wires). Configuration can be a bit painful on certain brands. Im not a motorcycle guy but a regular comment I used to hear is that for a bike the screen viewing angle and sunlight visibility are more of a consideration than in a car situation. For this reason you used to mostly see the older monochrome type LCD displays on race bikes - like a Motec ADL style. Colour LCD's have improved a lot over the last few years however so I dont know how true that comment is these days - I havent been to any bike racing for a good 5 years or more. Still worth investigating though... You may want something waterproof also depending on how you transport the bike etc. I dont know your budget, but for colour dashes have a look at the AIM MXS Strada and the AEM CDL5/7, they both offer good value for money and are easy to use. For monochrome you are a bit more limited in selection (avoid Racepak due to horrible software), but possibly Motec CDL or Race Technology Dash2Pro (Link sell this).

Hmmm, thats a weird one. I really would have thought it could only be the sensor that caused what you are seeing here. I dont know these engines well but most common automotive hall effect sensors dont have built-in pull up resistor so when connected to an ECU the signal on the trigger scope should only show the same voltage as the ECU internal pull-up in our case it is about 5V. So Im a little suspicious when I see 14V on yours. I wonder if there is a short to 12V somewhere in the wiring? Or maybe sensor pinout is wrong and it causes the sensor to over heat? I have a friend with a S85B50 so I can possibly measure the stock voltage and pinout on this in the weekend for you (assuming they would be the same sensor?)

Can you attach the triggerscopes so we can confirm? Only the LH Exhaust cam sensor is used for the trigger so if you suspect a failing sensor you could always swap LH & RH cam sensors to see if the trigger error disappears.

It looks like it is the same sensor we sell so you can use one of the built-in calibrations. Set up like below.

No, as I mentioned earlier this is a DC Servo motor (you are right, just like DBW). Although PWM is involved, it is not just PWM, it needs a push-pull type output so polarity is reversed to move it in the other direction. It also probably needs to be done with some sort of closed loop strategy to make it a smooth transition from open to closed. The only way I can think of doing it would be a 3rd party controller like this: https://www.vexrobotics.com/217-8080.html I have never used one, have no idea how difficult they are to program and there are possibly much cheaper options out there - this is just the first one I come across in a search that has PID built in. Basically it would take a generic PWM signal from the ECU and use that to drive the motor open/closed or to whatever position you wanted.

No, that is a reluctor sensor. Change the setting to reluctor. I still dont think this could have caused the coils to overheat? Just reading this again, did you run the ignition test for 30mins? Or was the engine running for 30mins?

No updates yet sorry, I have put as much pressure on it internally as I can. It is now down to where it fits into the priorities in the Engineering dept. For some reason this doesnt effect everyone, you might as well give it a try. If you have a problem you can always change to openloop, with ignition idle control added it usually gives quite acceptable results too.

This is only if you want ECU controlled start up. I dont know if your car has "push button start" but if it does it is probably controlled by the BCM, not the ECU.

The acknowledge and stuff errors are CAN bus errors but they may not be caused by the Ecotrons - they maybe caused by the channel 1, if you turn off channel 1 and those errors go away but you still get the lambda freezing up occasionally then I would be suspect of the sensor. If it is only one particular side that "freezes" then you could possibly swap the sensors from side to side and see if the problem follows it.

Your map has 3 CAN channels set up, 2 Ecotron and 1 something else? Do you have a termination resistor and the far end of the bus? I notice the Ecotron uses extended ID's while the other uses an 11bit ID, I have never seen both types used together before so I'm not sure if that is acceptable practice or not - Im not sure how nicely they will play together... Can you temporarily turn off channel 1 and see if your Lambdas keep working then?

Correct. The Supra ECU has 2 expansion connectors if you need extra IO but those are not necessary to make it run. You would only need those if you want to connect extra sensors etc that weren't connected originally.

Ok, original settings wouldnt have prevented it from running in that case. So you have a spark at the right time. That means it must be fuel, air or compression that is missing from the equation - so which one? Fuel is easy to test - you can just spray some ether into it - if it then coughs or fires you can conclude it is fuel that is missing and look closer at what is causing that. If you dont get any signs of life with an alternate fuel source then you are going to have to look for the missing air or compression (cam timing, stuck valves, rings, etc)...

No, read Brads comment again. It says if you get a 2JZ harness it will fit onto the 1JZ engine...

I cant see how this is meant to work if your drawing above is correct. Whenever the clutch switch is closed, pin C32 will be connected directly to 12V, it does not give any indication of what is happening at the starter...

Ignore that, it is just a default value, the ECU wont use it unless it is in multifuel mode with blend tables setup etc. I assumed you had more than 1 injector per cylinder when I originally looked? If you only have 1 injector per cylinder then it should be set to multi-point group and you will also what to set active drives to 1-4.

Aux 5/6/7/8/ are only required for stepper motor type idle valves, your engine has a solenoid type idle valve so it can be connected to any aux, it is connected to Aux 2 in the RX7 plug-in's and is already set up correctly in the basemap. The aux output status in the runtimes is only valid for on/off type signals, not stepper or PWM type signals. If there is a problem with the OMP there will be red text across the top of your screen and the Engine will be limited to 2000RPM. You can confirm it is working by watching that the oil pump position (AN 2) follows the target commanded in the "Rotary oiler" table as per my pic below. Temporarily change the value in the table and check that the position moves to that new target. For idle control, it just sounds like it needs to be tuned.

Yes, nothing special required here, the only setting you will need to change in the ECU is the dwell table to match the new coils.

Hi Peter, Sorry I forgot to get back to you on this one for a couple of days. I think since it loses comms with the engine off we can rule out electrical interference and concentrate more on the Seriallink/USB adapter. Im my experience the Seriallink is generally robust/reliable but the USB>serial adapters are pretty flaky, so my suspicions are still leaning more towards the USB adapter. However, I know you have said you have already tried another USB>serial adapter. If you are in NZ I might be able to lend you my serial link & possibly a USB adapter to try.

The wiring and set up is basically the same as our old one. The wire colours may have changed from this diagram below but it will show you how it is connected to the ECU.

Yes Pin 7 is normally used to ground the trigger sensors and the shield for them. So 4 ground wires would all be spliced together to this pin.

That appears to be a DC servo motor, our ecu's dont have any way to control that directly. There may be 3rd party controllers that would take a PWM from an aux output to control it but it is not something i have come across before.

Yes that is the correct setting to switch off fuel. The oil temp is just the default value since there is no oil temp sensor connected in that car (some gtr's have oil temp gauge but it is not connected to the ECU).

Can you do a pc log of a short drive, 5 minutes or so will be fine. It sounds like your most likely reason will be there is a small error some where causing one of the error accumulators to count up. These will only cause the system to shut down once they reach 100 so it will only be certain types of driving or actions that cause it. A short log should give us some clues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Try attached, I have done this for someone previously so only tested some of it. This will give you the 4 wheel speeds, power steer should work as well as speedo, tacho & temp gauge. rx8 with CAN.pclr

So did you check it with a timing light while cranking? Note it should be conected to an analog input, not digital right? Since it is a switch you will also have to set your error high to 5.0 and error low to 0.0 for it to work.