Adamw

A Fury is a G4+, so yes it has ODB2 output.

Yep, follow their suggested tooth size and all will be well.

Note if you are only ever going to stick with the distributor, then Ken's suggestion would work well. If you want to be able to upgrade to wasted spark later without a lot of head scratching then you would be better to stick to the method suggested in the help file.

Yep, that is a 911 Porsche sensor, they are VR, and you are correct that the 3rd pin is the shield. You will find the same sensor just with different length cable and different connectors on many European cars. There is a common VW sensor that is very similar but quite a bit cheaper that might be worth looking at, search 0261210147. Also, 0261210128 is a similar sensor with a more common JPT connector. The old G4 will work well with 36-2.

The reluctor sensor you link to would be a good choice provided there is room to mount it etc. Tooth size is important with reluctor sensors so take a look at the trigger wheels NZEFI links to on that same page for an idea of size. Your teeth want to be no longer than about 4mm. 24-1 or 36-2 are usually what I go for but also 12 or 24 equally spaced teeth would do fine too. You will also need a single tooth on the cam (or an aftermarket disc in the original CAS will give you that).

You can wire/pair the injectors as per the semi-seq instructions regardless of whether you went semi-seq or multigroup. It can be set to use two or 4 drivers when in multigroup mode.

The OP has a Thunder which has some high speed DI's capable of ABS sensor frequencies.

Hmmm, thats weird, it sounds like it worked for Simon above. Im not sure if you maybe got the wrong file or you guys are running different firmwares and one has the -ve fuel pressure bug fixed. In any case I will attach two files below, one has a negative multiplier for fuel press (Dec2017), the other doesnt (Mar2018), so one of them should work for you. AIMPressx10Lamx0.1March2018.lcs AIMPressx10Lamx0.1Dec2017.lcs

Attach your map and I will take a look. I think the warning pops up if you are sending out more than 50 parameters (or is it 100?, cant remember) which could be possible with other stuff on Channel 1 & 2.

Yeah true that probably needs clearing up, those quoted numbers would be more normal for gearbox VSS type inputs.

The calibration number of ~1300 should be correct for your setup. A bigger calibration number will give you a lower displayed speed. I suspect MagicMike's number might be from a gearbox sensor, not a ABS sensor?

Yes the AEM dash will work. Note they do both a display only version and a display/logger version, the display only version is quite a bit cheaper if you have no need for more logging than the ECU can provide. AIM, MXS(logging) & MXS Strada(no logging), have similar functionality to the two AEM options. The Strada is quite a bit cheaper than the non-logging AEM. There are many others worth looking at that will work too: Plex tuning, Life racing, Race Technology, mechatromotive, are a few off the top of my head.

Usually, it is easiest to just do it experimentally with a timing light. Procedure is here: How to actually measure trigger offset is hard for me to explain clearly in words but here's a quick try: To measure trigger offset you need to turn the engine clockwise until the trigger 2 tooth passes it's sensor, then keep rotating until the next trigger 1 tooth aligns with its sensor, we will call this the "index tooth". Zero your degree wheel or measuring device here. The "trigger offset" is the amount of crank degrees from this "index tooth" position until TDC #1 compression. Trigger offset can only range from +360° to -360° so if the clockwise angular distance from the index tooth until TDC#1 is more than 360°, then you need to subtract 720 from your final number. A couple of examples: If the measured rotation from the index tooth to TDC#1 was 230°, then the trigger offset number would be 230°. If the measured rotation from the index tooth to TDC#1 was 570° (i.e. bigger than 360), then the trigger offset number would be 570-720= -150°.

Since your serial is >10000, it means your ECU does at least have a working CAN output. So basically any CAN device that is configurable or has built in CAN templates for Vipec V series, i series, Link G4 or G4+ then it will work. Your ECU also has a RS232 output available. The reason this ECU is no longer on the Vi-Pec website is the V-series was discontinued about 5 years ago. Here is an archived version of the V44 specs page just FYI: https://web.archive.org/web/20160122231922/http://www.vi-pec.com/ecus/v44

I would say that most of it could be explained by real data, but there is enough coincidence there that I would be taking a closer look at other data to confirm. My first suggestion would be to add Batt voltage, 12V internal and the 5V out parameters to your time plot and see if any of those show any interaction in the same areas.

I have given your map a brief run in an ECU here and the limiting works as expected. We havent had any reports of a limiter problem for a long time so if there were one it could only be related to something unique to your set up. With so many variables involved it will be nearly impossible to reproduce without a log showing at least some of the conditions that were present at the time to narrow it down. Unfortunately I dont have much advice to offer except to suggest you set up ECU logging to always work in the background so you can get some insight if there ever is unexpected behaviour in the future.

Are you sure? 4age should be 24 teeth on trigger 1 and 1 tooth on trigger 2? Both are reluctor sensors so only the falling edge is acceptable. We would call this a "multitooth" trigger mode. Can you confirm if you are using the normal 4AGE distributor/CAS?

The CAN port has both CAN and RS232 connections in the same plug. Anything connected to the RS232 pins will upset the PC Comms. Im not sure where those instructions on your phone screenshot came from but they dont appear to be ours and it is a bit ambiguous. There are a few options to solve your issue: You can cut your current cable down so it is less than about 200mm long, then there wont be enough capacitance to trigger the RS232. From there only extend just the two needed CAN H/CAN L wires. Get rid of the current cable, run just the CAN H/ CAN L wires to ECU and solder on a CANF plug. You can get that from a Link dealer or search a local electronics supplier for "AU-06BFFA-LL7001"

Hi Jake, There are no known problems with the limiter functions in current firmware and I cant think of a good explanation for what you have explained here. Your settings look fine in your map provided this was from after you changed the limit to 8500. Have you got a log from this run we could see?

Yes with the G1 it was common to wire the MAP via the old AFM plug. That AFM plug is still connected to an AN Volt input in the G4+ ecu but it wont be doing anything unless that AN Volt input was turned on and set up. So this is not your problem. Have you checked base timing etc? Do all sensor values look realistic and normal when its running? Can you do a log and attach that and your map.

The ignition outputs are only low current "logic level" type outputs. This means you will need an ignitor, cdi or coils with a built in ignitor. You can wire an OBD2 socket to the ECU and plug in a wifi or Bluetooth OBD2 adapter, you can then use a 3rd party OBD2 app on Android or iOS. There are many to choose from but some of the common ones are Torque, Dash Command, Harrys Lap timer, etc. We dont have one to offer sorry, perhaps another user will. If not we can help you knock something up that will get you running.

If you scroll to the end of that thread I'm pretty sure the last file I attached fixed the negative pressure. Let me know if it doesnt and I can fix it easy enough.

The cable that you are connecting to the CAN port must have more than just the two CAN wires inside. If it has the RS232 wires connected to the CAN plug then it will interrupt Laptop connection. The general recommendation it to use the "CANF" plug and connect only the two CAN wires. If you are using for instance the "CANDASH" cable that has both RS232 and CAN wires connected and will cause this problem.

A CAN bus should have a terminating resistor at both ends of the Bus. The ECU has one built-in so you dont need to worry about one at the ECU end, but you should add one at the other end. Having said that, it will often work without one, especially if the "bus" is quite short.