Adamw

This should work fine. We have a "AC Request" CAN DI input. There is a "Toucan CAN DI.lcs" file in the PC Link CAN directory. Load that up and change whichever Toucan DI you want to use to AC Request. Below example would be if I wanted the Toucan DI#1 to activate AC.

This is a little difficult to explain clearly in words, but most hall sensors wont work predicably if oriented so that the target moves longitudinally/axially towards the sensor, they are designed to have the target "swipe" past the end of the senor traversely. So if the sensor was inserted in through the top of the rocker cover I would say it would likely be un-reliable. If however you could poke the sensor in through the side of the rocker cover so that the tip of the rocker wipes past the end of the sensor then it should work ok. Another option is to go for a missing tooth wheel on the crank and dont bother with the cam sensor (no sequential). Another option might be to poke a sensor down in the old distributor hole and grind the old distributor gear into a single tooth lug shape?

That would generally be how it's done. What car/engine/ecu are we talking?

Just in case it wasnt clear from the other replies - In order to convert your G4 map into a G4+ map, your laptop needs to be connected to a live (powered up) G4+ ECU, you cant do it offline. Using the G4+ software, you go to >file>open then select your old G4 map, PC Link will then convert the map as it gets loaded into the ECU.

Set it to optical/hall. This will just shift the point it triggers to the left a little further.

You can only have one CAN module assigned to OBD2. If both your boost controller and display can only work via OBD2 then unfortunately you wont be able run both at the same time.

As stated earlier you can only output OBD2 to one CAN module at a time. Does your boost controller use OBD2? What brand/model is the boost controller? What ECU do you have?

Wiring info for the G1 V5 is here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2524

This is a G1 Linkplus. It is PC tunable but you will need a serial link device to connect. Manual is here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2537

What ecu do you have? In the video you are turning on OBD2, this should be set to off unless the devices you are connecting are obd2. Once you have selected user defined and bitrate at the top of the screen, then you need to select a free channel down below and set it to a suitable mode and ID

There is a V7-9 base map included in the VTS software.

If you have a multimeter you could pull the sensor out, measure the resistance at about 20degC then again in boiling water. Let us know those two points and we will see if it matches any of the common sensor calibrations. Im assuming they are not still connected to a gauge as well?

You dont need any voltage levels, you need to connect your laptop to the ECU, go to Options>TPS Setup, then follow the instruction on screen. Basically, it is just press pedal to floor, click ok, lift off, click ok. Do a store before turning off (ctrl+s).

The settings in your map doesnt match the log so its a bit hard to see all of whats going on. Your log shows it was in open loop but your map is set to closed loop. The frequency of aux one might be a bit high for that valve, try it around 120Hz. In your log below, the idle valve was just fixed at 35%. Ive marked two areas, what made the RPM jump up in the first box then fall again in the second box? Was that you unpluging valve or something?

Before you go changing too much can you do us a quick log with the problem occurring. Here is a video guide how to set up and run the PC Log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Attach the log and a copy of the map here.

No you will have to turn off CLL, do some logging, then use mixture map on those logs to adjust your fuel table. You can always save a backup of your map before using mixture map so you can roll back if it messes anything up. If you wanted to attach your map and a log when you have one I will take a look and give my suggestions on what settings should work and which cells I would apply the mixture map correction to.

It looks like that tooth after the gap is starting to creep up a bit in that most recent scope although its still 20V below zero. It will still be worth trying the trig 2 trick to eliminate that.

Its not clear what you are asking. Mixture map is only used after the fact to correct the fuel table from logged data, it is not a live, real time trim. If you want data suitable for mixture map tuning then you really want CLL turned off during the logging.

Hmmm, the trigger actually looks not bad. There could be a few possibilities... Maybe ignition noise upsetting it at high RPM/load. Can you explain the ignition system detail a little - wasted spark? what coils? etc. Some high tooth count missing tooth wheels can distort the shape of the waveform on the tooth after the gap so much at high RPM that it no longers falls through zero, then the ECU doesnt count it as a tooth. Can you try another triggerscope at say 5000RPM, we may see if it is changing shape. The cam tooth is a little close to the crank "gap". Although it looks offset to the left enough to not be a problem it is still worth doing a little trick to eliminate that as the potential issue. Set trig 2 like below and see if you still get the odd spikes. If you still get spikes then we can rule that out and put trig 2 settings back to how you have them now.

Please attach your .CD7 file and your ECU tune file, I will take a look. Which AN Volt channel do you want to broadcast?

You have trigger errors, RPM limit settings are irrelevant when the ECU is reporting 19000RPM. We need to find the cause of the trigger error. Start by doing a triggerscope (just at idle for now) and attach the scope capture here.

I wouldnt bother with MAF unless you have very good calibration data for it. Even with MAF it would be best to tune in its final setup as even though MAF should take care of fueling based on the measured air mass flow, there may be other variables introduced that make the engine more or less knock limited that the MAF cant account for. Charge temps and combustion chamber temps for instance will change with turbo efficiency and boost pressure so I wouldnt like to assume the ignition map is still a good fit after such a change.

We are expecting the falling edge on cam teeth to be just to the left of the "gaps" on the crank. Then as the cams advance that cam edge moves further to the left of the gap. Since his signal is inverted his falling edge actually starts off on the right hand side of the gap, and as the cam advances it crosses over to the other side of that gap. I would say this is when it gets all upset. Changing to the rising edge will put the trigger points back to the correct side of the gap where we designed them to work. A bit of rounding at the top or bottom a square wave is usually not a drama, the actual trigger point that the ecu uses is at a level of about 1.0 or 1.5V depending or if its rising or falling (cant remember which is which). So provided the edge looks relatively vertical around the 1.0V mark you are usually good. Andpdas, I should have also mentioned if you change the edge to rising and the engine will no longer start you may have to try adding or subtracting 360deg from your current trigger offset.

Yes, it can be done. Attach your .cd7 configuration and I will set up the basics. What analog channel did you want to broadcast? Do you just want to broadcast the raw voltage or some calibrated value/unit?

Your camshaft "teeth" are upside down compared to normal subaru. Can you try changing trigger 2 edge to "rising".