Adamw

Injection should be set to sequential if you want semi-sequential operation. Note however your problem is not related to injection timing or injector wiring/pairing, you can squirt fuel in at any time and it will still run pretty reasonable regardless. If you have a backfire it means either there is a spark at the wrong time our a valve event at the wrong time (cam timing). So confirm coils are wired correct again - use the ignition test function. Confirm base timing and confirm timing is stable. Confirm there are no trigger errors - software is reporting realistic and stable RPM. Confirm cam timing looks ok. In the meantime you can also attach your map and a log so we can check there are no odd settings causing it.

Yes the Storm Black has 2 dedicated knock pins on the B connector so these are what you need to use. The note in the help file you refer to looks like a mistake, it is actually for the old blue storm which didnt have dedicated pins. I see that note has been corrected in the latest test version that I'm using now so it will be fixed soon. Sorry for the confusion

Usually a power cycle, then re-run of the firmware updater will be all that is needed. Im not sure what would have caused that error though. I assume you are using VTS V4.10.2? Yeah sorry I didnt attach it originally. I have now attached it to that original post.

Yeah it is just the way it works in our firmware.

Also have a look at the Pipo X11, it has multiple full size USB ports. There is another post on the forum here with someone using the Pipo X8 but that may be a bit of a more difficult shape to work with.

I tested this on the simulator and my valve moves but you have some pretty odd settings in there so its possibly getting itself tied in a knot. You're on quite old firmware so first update to 4.10.2. Then load in the attached map. With this map when you turn the key on the valve should wind all the way open (reset) then go back to about halfway open ready for startup. Please confirm if it does appear to move both ways with this map. new isc settings.pcl

Hmmm, you are right. It was working earlier today as I tested that very link before I posted. I will take another look tomorrow.

Just a FYI: We have done a little work to try to improve this situation, you will now find the latest up to date information for plugin ecus is available on our website on the respective ECU page. At times it may be more up to date than the printed one that is included with the ECU or the info within the PC Link help file. Still I realise its not as nice a solution as Mapper proposed but it is the best we can due to the multiple shipping warehouses (sometimes 3rd party) around the world.

The 3RZ is a fairly basic engine, it should be a relatively simple set up. Your question is a bit open - what sort of advice do you need?

I suspect the OP's query "ign trim tables" was for the knock control ignition retard tables. With wasted spark ignition our ECU's cant retard individual cylinders, we can only retard the pair of cylinders that are attached to the same ignition drive. So you point these pairs of cylinders to the same ignition trim table.

Hmmm, you have something weird going on here. In one of your triggerscopes the camshaft signal is inverted then in the other it is up the right way. We know of some engines where the sensors are designed to do this but as far as we know this is not normal behaviour for the late EJ207 sensors. So Im suspicious the LH Inlet cam sensor may be faulty. Can you try swapping LH inlet cam sensor with the RH cam sensor? One of your scopes correct way up: The other is upsidedown:

There are exceptions, but most tablets with a single USB port cant charge and transfer data at the same time. This is because the USB port normally has to power the device connected to it (such as a mouse). Look for a tablet with two USB ports or one that is known to be able to do charge/data at the same time. In either case, it will not get power from the ECU, you will have to provide another source.

Wiring sounds correct, motor type should be unipolar. Please post a map and log. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

I think mixture map would show you that. Right click on mixture map and click "update" should show you which cells were driven through/recorded over the focused log period. You will need to set the number of samples to 1, and maybe open up the active zone area to get the effect you want.

As far as I can see the immobiliser has no effect on ignition power in this car. Coil power supply is completely independent of ECU.

Ok, ecu and dash configs attached below. A couple of comments about your ECU setup: You didnt have any CAN set up so I dont know what CAN port you have wired the dash to. I have assumed CAN 1 and done all set up on CAN 1. AN Volt 6 is set up as a temp input but your cal table 7 is set up for KPa units. You will need to set this to °C for the CAN to work properly. AN Volt 7 is set up as "Alternator %" but the cal table 9 is again set up for Kpa units. You will need to set this to % for the CAN to work properly. Also the error high value on AN Volt 7 needs to be set to non zero to allow it to work. The error high value on AN Volt 10 needs to be set to non zero to allow it to work. o_dd new CAN.aemcd7 O_dd new CAN.pclr

Most likely your engine will use the "Ford Duratec VCT" trigger mode. It is 36-1 on crank and 5 teeth on cam.

Correct, there is no such function available at present.

Sorry I just forgot about you after the weekend. I will take a look when I’m at work later.

Sorry I dont understand what you are reporting here, can you try to explain it a bit more.

Load in the monsoon map, set up all inputs and outputs to match your wiring. Copy all settings from the 1ZZ page in the help file to the relevant fields in your map. Adjust injector settings to match what you have. That should be about all that is needed.

The fault would indicate either the signal wire is shorted to ground or the 5V wire is broken. The first step would be to check there is 5V at the TP sensor. AN Volt 1 is pin 35 (link numbering) or 3G (mazda numbering), it should be a black and green wire. You can check there is voltage on this pin at the ecu and you can also check it has continuity back to the TPS plug.

A pull up wont help, the coil itself is basically a very strong pull-up (like probably <1ohm) to 12V. I suspect the problem will be the oscillation or "ringing" that you get in the primary waveform so the ecu will see multiple "teeth" for some spark events. The 400 odd Volts will possibly damage the ECU also, so this is not a good idea. Like I said earlier probably the easiest option is to remove the ignitor off the side of the distributor so you can get direct connection to the reluctor. Another option maybe a coil/tacho interface device such as this: https://wiki.autosportlabs.com/CoilX

I dont have a map to offer, but if you dont get any further joy from other users on the forum here then you can give me a ring here at link one night and I will log in with team viewer to help you get it running. You will need wifi access near the engine. Im here until 9PM NZ time most weeknights.

Connect the gnd on the ECS to gnd on the expansion loom. Connect the Vout on the ECS to DI6 on the expansion loom. Connect the Vcc on the ECS to a switched +12V source - doesnt necessarily need to be ECU. Some dealers have told me they actually power the ECS using the 5V wire on the XS loom but we havent yet tested that enough ourselves to recommend it as an acceptable/reliable option.