Adamw

Im pretty sure that would still be an error condition and it would output 170Hz. Best plan would be to plug one side and fill it with petrol. Should then show near 50Hz and 0%eth and sensor status should show "ok". If you know for sure it is a genuine Conti then I would say slim. On the other hand if it was cheaper than about USD150 then it will be a Chinese clone and the chances are much higher.

Sorry for the delay, I have had a few busy days. I just noticed that your trigger two actually flips upside down at 3000RPM. Here is your earlier one done at idle: And here is your 3000RPM: Can you try setting both trig 1 and trig 2 to rising. You will probably need to set base timing/trigger offset again.

Would you really want the sensor to show 100% ethanol if you had a tank full of water though? The fault value that is used when the sensor is in error condition is user configurable. Most users choose to use 0% as the fault value so that the safest ignition and boost map is used when the sensor is in error condition, that also means the leanest fuel settings will be used so it is a bit of a compromise whatever you do. You can view the Ethanol sensor status in the general runtimes.

The normal range is 50-150Hz for 0-100% ethanol, 170HZ means sensor error, usually contamination/water.

Yes, I think any of the baud rates should work and you can also use the Continuous-25Hz datastream setting in the ECU for faster updates but in my testing I didnt see any noticeable lag even with the slowest settings. I suspect it maybe more video related in your Android device but if it works with higher speed settings then no problem using those. I just thought there is no point running everything at max if it wasnt needed.

Im not sure where pin 37 came from but the NB sensors are connected to pin 29(front sensor) and 55(rear). It would be ok to repurpose one of these for your AEM. Note the X-series also has CAN bus so that would be a better way to connect it. If connected to an analog input you would set the function to "Lambda 1" and set the calibration to "AEM X Series" The Expansion loom is the easiest since it also has the 5V supply and sensor ground wires, but there are plenty of other spare analog inputs on the main connector if you want to do it that way. There are for instance the two original airflow meter inputs and the 2nd NB oxy pin.

Did you try rebooting the tablet and ensuring PC Link is not opened so the COM port is not reserved by PC Link?

It can be used but it is not normally recommended. If there is no built in calibration for your car (there should be 2 subaru and 1 evo option) then you have to find that data yourself or work it out empirically. Usually easier to use MAP.

Have a look at your target trim tables, you have ECT pulling 100Kpa out at all temps, IAT trim pulling 100Kpa out at normal running temps and gear trim adding or subtracting depending on gear position.

Yes, that seems to be your problem but the VVT trigger modes are generally designed to allow large movement between the cam and crank patterns, usually more than 100 degrees. I suspect your cam/crank phasing may be much different to the Mazda 3 that this triggermode was designed for. I havent had much time to spend looking at your trigger scope closely so I will do some work on that tonight. Just FYI, triggering and VVT control are two completely seperate functions. VVT set up has no influence on the trigger. The VVT offset is just to "zero" the cam position.

Typically you would have the sensor ground on both ECU's connected together so they are referencing the same ground. Then for all the sensors you would only connect the signal wire - not the ground (so just the signal wire from the crank sensor to Link ecu, etc) . Obviously temp sensors will need to be connected to Volt inputs, not temp inputs.

The ECU has no control over what TP the throttle body closes to when it switches power off in safety mode. It will close to whatever opening the OEM designed the spring system to achieve. The idea is this should only happen when the ECU cant control the throttle and the only option is to shut off power and kill engine.

If you read the title of this thread it says “A dashboard app for windows and android”. There is a reason iOS is not mentioned. iOS doesn’t support usb serial port or Bluetooth serial port so it will only work with a few ECU’s that have an Apple approved WiFi bridge. I though it would be pretty foolproof, I havnt had one problem connecting. Did you powercycle the ECU after storing the datastream settings and leave PC Link closed?

I did help Femi as best I could earlier. The tests that we could come up with using the only basic tools he had access to roadside (straightened out his key ring to use as a "back probe" lol) suggested the ECU was sending out ignition signals on all channels but it was far from conclusive.

Hi Thomas, No it is not a bonehead mistake on your part, there is a genuine problem in the firmware preventing 2 intake VVT cams on the Monsoon. This was more an oversight when it was designed they thought it doesnt have enough IO to support Vee engines with two VVT intake cams so they disabled some of the functionality. Of course we forgot about boxer engines with two intake cams. So this has been fixed in the latest firmware (not released yet). How close are you to running? I can possibly get a test version to you if it is ready to go now.

Trigger 1 is wired back to front. Swap the crank sensor +/- wires over. Note the ignition timing will change a little when you do this so you will have to set the base timing again.

I havent played with an old MXL for a long time so might be missing something obvious but I dont see a whole lot wrong. For the oil & fuel press, I think the "high value" setting might have an influence, try setting this much higher - like 5000. Set the measure unit to KPa also while you troubleshoot. Speed looks to be set up how I would expect it but you could also try the other 3 ECU speed channels to see if any of them have data. You may also have to disable the internal "SPD_1" channel.

These should all work out of the box. What problem are you having? Is this the old MXL, not a MXS or MXL2?

Oh, that one will be a problem unfortunately, I dont see a way to make that work. I think we will have to update our serial stream if this becomes a common problem.

In this case I think you probably are exceeding the threshold but just the logging is too slow and doesnt show some small/short spikes above the threshold. What frequency were you logging at?

The MX5 VVTi only has 4 teeth on the crank, very different to this one which is something like 36-1-1-1

Here's how you do it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_ynfTPGEdv66t1SfTVrf1hsk6QOM3AkX/view?usp=drivesdk

Here's a quick video showing how to change the units in the AEM dash: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPnEumPShw5Kmx3jaM I run out of time tonight to explain how to send the boost target so Ill try to remember to explain that later. Bump this thread if I forget after a couple of days (Friday night here now). For your idle problem I dont see much wrong but you do have unusually large DC numbers everywhere which suggests the valve is not responding as we normally expect. For instance your map has an AC step of 20%, whereas 5% is enough for most nissans. Are you sure the valve is even working? Does idle drop if you un-plug it? We dont get KA's down here so Im assuming the valve is similar to an SR or RB.

No way to do this sorry, all pressure parameters will obey the same display unit that is assigned in >options>units>options.

If you are referring to pin 103, then no, it is not connected to anything inside our ECU.