Adamw

Your trigger pattern is basically the same as the Evo 1-6 but with trigger 2 inverted. Thats why I originally suggested swapping trigger two edge setting. After you reported that didnt work I was confused so discussed it with one the Engineering team today. The reason it didnt work is the sync point is "hardcoded" and it is actually looking for a certain combination of cam level and crank levels which now doesnt happen with the inverted cam. So apart from whats also been mentioned such as changing to the CAS or an electronic inversion, one other option is to grind one of the teeth of the cam wheel, then you could use "1 tooth per TDC" trigger mode.

Can you unplug PDM and Keypad and see if dash works? Are there any CAN errors showing in runtimes screen?

It is not so much the temp sensor calibration that is unknown, it is the value of the internal pull-up resistor in the OEM ecu that is unknown. You cant change sensors as this will upset at least the dash gauge etc. Those graphs above are closer to the Bosch Std NTC curve than the GM/Delphi curve you are suggesting. Since you have a Fury with configurable temp pull-ups you can move the wires to temp inputs if you like and change the software pullup value (external) until they read close. I suspect "3K3 external" will probably be the correct one.

You wont improve idle using cyclic idle or some type of limiter. Stick to the conventional tuning techniques and give it what it wants, you should not need to do anything extraordinary unless it is fairly extreme. As Steve says if MAP is unstable or no longer has a good relationship to engine load then change to a TPS based fuel table.

Assuming you have the 24 tooth distributor, settings like below will do. Im not sure of the offset.

In PDM global setup/CAN Inputs you have message 0 set up with an ID of 3E8 (1000dec), it doesnt look like you are using this for anything. Can you try removing this? The most recent firmware is 5.6.5.3389, can you go to help>about and check the PCLink version, if it is not 5.6.5.3338, then download the latest from our website.

What does this engine actually have for the triggers? Does it have a CAS off the back of the head with both trigger 1 & 2 inside or does it have a separate trigger on crank and cam?

I dont see much wrong with your ECU setup, except for very old firmware... My only other thought is perhaps the PDM or Keypad is sending a message out on an ID that is clashing with the dash. Can you attach your PDM config?

Edit, ignore my last reply, I was looking at the wrong PCLR.

You would have this radar sensor connected to a DI and assigned as a wheel speed. You would set that up as non-driven wheel speed in the speed sources menu. You would then need at least one of the driven wheels connected to a DI and assigned as driven wheel speed. Slip will be the difference between the Radar (road speed) and the driven wheel speed.

Yeah, sorry, as per my post on the previous page this was something I overlooked when testing initially. The existing serial stream doesnt output the "Lambda 1/2" parameters. I will have asked engineering to add this but it wont be for a while unfortunately.

The unknown with the temp sensors is the value of the pull-up in the stock ecu. Judging from the example temperatures you gave above Im going to hazzard a guess that the pull-up is about 3Kohm. Can you try changing your cal 1 set up to Volts rather than ohms and input the numbers below.

You would no longer have DI 7 wet/dry switch. The DI5 traction disable would still work.

Map cal table is wrong. I’m replying on a phone so can’t do a screenshot but input A should be 0.5v, not 0v

Yes, and the Evo 7 mode.

This trick is not documented well so just in case you didnt know of it I will paste it here:

Something definitely is not normal with that triggerscope. The phasing between the cam and crank looks quite different to what we expect. Maybe cam timing is out or the other thing I have seen happen is the crank disc put on back to front. Im not sure if either of these ideas will work or not but try changing trig 2 edge to rising. If that doesnt work you could try the Evo 7-9 trigger mode. You will need to re-do the base timing after either of these changes.

Correct, if you want to tune yourself then you will need some sort of wideband controller. If it is going to a tuner then you dont need one as they will use their own. There is no onboard wideband controller on the plug-in ECU's. Our CAN lambda is nice and gives extra functionality that 3rd parties dont but you are not limited in any way to just the Link CAN lambda, you can use pretty much any 3rd party lambda controller whether CAN based or analog output type.

Ok, attached your map modified to suit a 12pos switch connected to AN Volt 6. You will notice I have set up the knob as a GP Input and assigned a Cal table. This is so you see "knop position 0-11" on your Slip table axis rather than just 0-5Volts so it is a little easier to know where you are working when making changes. Slip table two is now the main table that will do most of the work. Slip table 1 is just used to get the highspeed/low gear limiter you had configured. I dont really know how much adjustment you wanted so I took a stab. In this example, position 0 will give you the same slip as your old dry table. Position 7 or 8 is most similar to your original wet table and turning the knob to 11 gives the most aggressive TC. TC Knob setup.pclr

The ECU is supplied with a USB tuning cable. If you use a windows tablet then you can use PC Link or Realdash for the display, if you go for Android then Realdash would be the easiest. Some reading for you here: http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8164-windows-tablet-power-from-usb http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/6447-link-g4-tablet-view http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8637-introducing-realdash-a-dashboard-app-for-android-windows/

What is on your slip tables now - are they 2D or 3D? Maybe attach your map if you dont mind

All WRX's (well at least up to 2007), have both a MAP and a MAF from the factory. As far as I know all of the GC chassis had it seperate from the engine with a hose connecting it to the manifold just like my photo shows. The "new gen" cars GD/GG chassis changed to a sensor that bolted direct to the manifold. That means there is a sensor connected to the ecu so we know it has one, but the problem is it's pressure reading is wrong and doesnt change when you start the engine. So either the sensor is faulty or the hose is off. Nothing, you dont even have a lambda connected by the looks.

Yes you can use that. You can put the AN Volt channel that the knob is wired to either on one axis of the main slip table, or if you need more variables you can set the second slip table to be always on then have the AN Volt on one of the axes in that table.

Maybe you have the pinout wrong then. Got a photo? If you suck/blow on the hose does the voltage/map change?

If its turbo then it will need a MAP sensor connected and working. MAFless is normal but MAP is needed if it is boosted. I dont know these cars well, but google images suggest you will find it around the strut tower somewhere, it should have a hose that connects to the intake manifold.