Adamw

All you need to do is choose "Honda S2000" in the trigger setup screen.

Hi Alex, Sorry for the slow reply, I have just returned from holiday and am starting to catch up. Can you email me your files and a little description? I will take a look when I have a quiet patch.

Sorry for the slow reply. It was not the AFR target table I was talking about, it was the AFR target Overlay table. It is a fairly effective warning device when connected to a typical mild road car engine but I think for tuning a audio based device is a much better prospect. The human ear is very good at seperating real knock from background noise. If the budget can stretch a little further my suggestion would be to consider the Knockblock instead.

You must be testing wrong. It will output +12V when turned off, it will output 0V with aux set on test mode.

I have been in contact with this user via Tech Support email earlier today and am waiting for him to come back with the results of some of my checks. Probably no need for input from the forum community on this one just yet.

There are quite a few of these out there running. In the help file are settings for the 2NZ-FE, the 1NZ seems to share all the same basic settings.

A map and log would be a good starting point so we can see if injector pulsewidth is changing etc. How to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A What injectors do you have?

The Plex dashes have the termination resistor built in so you should be ok there. Correct that the CANPCB cable is not twisted but I have never seen that cause a problem, it is only ~150mm long. Can you attach your .pclr file so I can take a quick look at your settings.

This is not a typical three wire/two coil type valve. It is the subaru type which has a driver built in. It has constant ground, ign switched +12V supply and a single PWM signal pin. Looking at the key position on the connector drawing it appears you have it reversed In your photo of valve, top pin would be XU2 - Gnd Centre pin is XU3 - +12V Bottom pin is XU1 - ECU Aux output. Im not sure what ECU you have? If you have an Atom or Monsson then they are always lowside drives (ECU sends out ground when turned on). On some of our other ECU's Aux 5-8 can be set to highside drive (12V) or lowside drive (gnd), check yours is set to lowside. Most likely your setting is correct and you are just seeing odd voltage since the wiring is reversed.

The should be run as 2 separate wires direct to the engine block (connect to the same bolt). No that will be good, the J121 is good for about 7 or 8 amps from memory. For ITB's you will be better using TP. You can get bolt on TP kits for DCOE's from Webcon and Burton etc. If its a road car you can get a big improvement in drivability with 3D ignition, if its a race car that spends most of its life >70% throttle then less so.

See this thread, sounds like you have the same problem with some wires connected to the RS232 pins. http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/7624-can-port-connection-issues-and-jzx110-ethrottle/

Our plugin ECU's are made up of 2 PCB's, we refer to them as the "top board" and "bottom board". The top board has the main ECU electronics, the bottom board is basically just like an adaptor board that connects all the necessary I/O from the top board to the original OEM header. For the last couple of years all of our plugin ECUs use a G4+ Xtreme based top board so it has the E-throttle hardware on board. However in this case the bottom board doesnt connect the Aux 9 & 10 outputs to any externally available pins (also no E-throttle relay/Ethottle power supply routed). This is mostly because this car never had E-throttle originally and it wasnt a common modification back in the day when we designed this bottom board and it hasnt been revised since we added E-throttle to the Top board. Some of our more common plugins have had the bottom boards revised more regularly as trends change or features are added, for instance, WRX V7-9 and Evo4-9 ECU's now have the E-throttle outputs connected.

The Bosch idle valves found on BMW's and many other european cars are very convenient with simple hose type connections. You can get 2 and 3 wire versions but 2 wire would be the preferable one since you dont have too many spare aux outputs on the Atom. Expensive new but good value 2nd hand and rarely give any trouble. For the MAP sensor I cant think of too many good examples off the top of my head. Many 90's toyotas have them or the GM/delphi 1Bar might be options.

If you are prepared to send it back to NZ, it can be modified by adding a couple of wire links to give you E-Throttle capability. We can also give you instructions to get it modified locally but you will lose your warranty if not performed by us.

This "noise" you have here is more likely just due to the poor trigger design. Your engine position signal is coming from within a distributor that is connected via a loose mechanical coupling to a camshaft which is then connected to the crankshaft via a "rubber" belt. So you have mechanical backlash, valve train resonance and cam belt resonance all contributing to an inaccurate engine position signal. Converting to a crank mounted trigger wheel is the proper fix. The "RPM filtering" setting under trigger setup may help a little.

All looks good to me. The pin you labelled as IGT on the Atom would actually be "ignition 1". "G-" on the distributor should go to the "Shield/Gnd" pin on the Atom (rather than chassis ground). You may want to think about adding a temp sensor so you can control Fan etc but above would be the bare minimum needed to run ignition only.

Reading on a cell phone but that doesnt look right to me. If your initial crank speed was 6000RPM, and you had a continuous acceleration (ROC) of 18000/sec, then after 90deg (0.0025sec) the engine speed has increased by about 45RPM. That means the next crank tooth would arrive at the sensor about 0.00012sec earlier than the ECU had predicted it would (Based on the last two teeth). I might be wrong and am struggling to show it clearly in words, but I can only see room for the potential of about 0.5deg error in this example.

This should be no problem to control. 12V & Ground, then any spare aux 1-4 to the "signal" pin. I dont have a pinout for that valve so you will have to work that out yourself.

It looks like you have most of the basics right to me. A couple of things you should change; turn off the IAT trim table (generally not needed with modelled mode.), Turn off the AFR/Lambda target overlay table (not doing anything). Upgrade to latest firmware. Turnoff CLL during tuning and try using the mixture map a little. It looks like you need a bit more work on the fuel table just above idle and light cruise as you have a fairly lean area (assuming diff Fuel pressure is controlling well).

When you blip the throttle the idle valve will return to whatever position is in the base position table. If the base position table is incorrect then the engine RPM will settle outside of the control range so closed loop will never engage. It appears your base position table hasn’t been tuned at all. You need to switch idle control mode to open loop and tune the base position table properly before switching to closed loop. There is a guide in the help file.

The bottom screenshot above shows that ignition 4 is on when DI3 is on, so the ECU seems to be doing what it’s meant to be. If your AC clutch is not engaging when PCLink shows AI4 is on then you likely have a wiring issue. You can set AI4 function to “Test(on)” mode to check your wiring.

Please attach a copy of your map

1. Yes, in “multi group” injection mode the injector drives are fired odd/even, so just connect one bank to inj drive 1, and 2nd bank to inj 2. 2. The Atom inj drives can do about 5A each so just one drive per bank is needed. 3. I would guess the distributor just has an 8 tooth “chopper disc” inside? If so this will be fine. Even with the distributor you could still have the Atom control ignition advance which will often give you better idle control than air valve alone. To do wasted spark you would need some different chopper wheel to get a “sync” reference. You might just be able to cut one tooth off to make it 8-1. You will probably want a MAP sensor and may need an ignitor if you want to control the coil (not sure if these engines already have an ignitor fitted).

The knock pin is the only one missing in the current PC Link release. It has been included in the next release. Our plugin pinouts usually only show the pins that are relevant to the installer/end user, there often others that are connected but are dedicated to things like main relay control, power, grounds etc. If you need something more specific you can look at a FSM or email your question to [email protected] and we may be able to give more detail.

Is it even powering up? Does the blue led light up?