Adamw

I will bring this one to @Simon ‘s attention to see if he can help. I think I have heard this issue reported before so I suspect we may have a polarity setting wrong in the base map. I can’t help much further with what I have access to on holiday.

Some of these engines have very low voltage from the cam sensor at cranking speed so your arming threshold table might need some adjustment. Please unplug the coils (so it doesn’t start) and do a trigger scope while cranking. Save as a log file and post that here.

Try the basic setup below. Set "upshift digital input" to the DI that is connected to the Clutch switch. Leave downshift digital input set to off. The gear detection/gear ratios will need to be set up and working first. With these example settings below; when RPM is >3000 & <9000 & TP is <30%, you will get a 25%throttle blip for 100ms everytime the clutch is pressed. Note, upshift gear cut will not work if you have brake switch in series, I would try using just clutch switch only initially and only add brake switch if needed.

It’s pretty simple to do your own, see the video in this other post for the basic process:

You can use any aux 1-5 for the vvt solenoid. I also suspect your idle valve may actually not be what we call a “3 wire” type. I think it maybe like the Subaru type that has 12V, ground, & signal? Have you got any info about it or a wiring diagram? if you have 24-1 crank and 1 tooth on cam then it should start and run, just leave the vvt solenoid unplugged. I don’t think you will be able to get vvt to work if you have changed to a 24-1 crank trigger.

All our ecus have one built in so nothing needed at ecu end, but the Link CAN lambda doesn’t (to allow multiple lambdas on same bus). So you should add a 120ohm resistor near the far end of the bus. Having said that if your bus is less than about 2 meters long then it will usually work fine without the termination at the far end - always best to do it right first time though.

A clutch switch will not be suitable to activate a downshift blip since you will also use clutch for upshifts, stops, etc. a brake switch is not suitable either as you often brake without shifting. Even if you wired them in series so both clutch and brake need to be depressed together then you would get a blip on start line and every time you engage a gear from neutral etc.

Sorry, no. Distance parameters are not something we have in the firmware at present and I can’t think of any other incrementing type parameter that we could use as a workaround in this case.

You will need some means of indicating a downshift event. This is difficult with an H pattern gearbox as the direction of gearlever force can be in either direction. The ecu can’t tell whether you are doing an upshift or downshift. Downshift Blip really needs a sequential shift pattern to work.

I believe there is a problem with OpenGL that the surface graphs use (3D maps) when running xp. Unfortunately I don’t know the workaround of the top of my head and am overseas on holiday. If you have another pc that has something newer than xp something you could try would be open up pclink, delete the surface view then save the layout. copy that layout to the laptop with XP and I think it would work. As for your other question, a G4 cannot run the G4+ firmware.

Hi Yuto, Have you already completed the TP and AP calibration procedures? Does the throttle blade move when you run the TP calibration? When in "ON" mode, the ECU will shut down the Ethrottle power (aux 6) if there are any significant errors, so the fault 74 is just caused by this and it is normal behaviour.

Hi Brad, I haven't been able to download your log, not sure if I have an internet problem here or if your attachment isn't working but never mind. could you try sharing them via OneDrive or google drive etc? Wasted spark ignition often creates a lot of electrical noise so with low resistance leads I would defiantly have some suspicions of this. Have you still got your old leads to try?

Timmy has it correct.

If you are wanting to run dedicated E85 full time (not a variable blend or flex fuel) then I see no reason why you could not achieve just as good drivability as petrol. Consumption may need to be considered if you do 4 hrs of driving a day.

You need to explain better what the problem is. Are you saying the ecu is staying alive after you turn the key off?

Link is closed for holiday until 3rd Jan. Send an email to tech @ linkecu.com. I’m presently lying by a pool in Thailand with a cocktail in hand. I only have cell phone access so can’t help with pinouts from here.

Polarity would be low for a fuel pump with a normally open relay if wired as above

I assume we are talking Evo 9 Mivec? If so the mivec cam position is done by a separate sensor to the trigger “sync” so you are free to change the trigger. Note you will need to remove one tooth from the exhaust cam if you are changing to a generic multi tooth or missing tooth crank. Benefits of a higher tooth count is more correct/stable ignition timing during fast transient conditions so if retuned you can often run more timing before the knock limit is reached.

Aux outputs are “low side drives”, this means they switch to ground when “on”. 86 needs to go to ignition switched +12V.

Yes, sounds odd, but it’s due to capacitance of the wire. By making it shorter you reduce the capacitance to a level that the RS232 chip can’t detect.

Another option is to cut the CANDASH cable shorter than about 200mm and then run only the can h/can l from there. If the rs232 wires are shorter than 200mm they won’t interrupt pc comms

If you are using a Motec pdm along with a keypad then as far as I can see you already have full compatibility as the pdm handles most of the keypad logic such as flip flops, multi stage presses etc. If you give us a list of what you want to configure I will be happy to take a look and setup some examples.

Who made the cable? Are you sure it only has two wires inside?

For the CAN problem it sounds like you must have more than just the two CAN wires connected to the plug. If there is a wire connected to the RS232 pins (even if not connected to anything at other end) it will interrupt PC comms. For the Ethrottle, there is a pinout for the Toyota clutched TB in the help file, (common 3SGE or 2JZ) I’m not sure if the 1JZ is the same.

Engine speed is an easy one, it is sent as a 16bit number with a resolution of 1 and a smallest value of 0. So: 0x0000 would be 0RPM 0xffff would be 65535RPM Some other parameters get a little more tricky to allow finer resolution or negative values, there is a handy tool called the test calculator on the CAN setup utility that allows you to look up resolution and offset for any parameter.