Adamw

Yes you can do PWM controlled by a 2D or 3D table. Are you sure you need PWM though? Most servo or motor type actuators would need push/pull.

DANBOB, can you do a PC log with all parameters recorded - do this with ignition on, engine off. I would also like you to do a trigger scope with engine not running. Email both of those and a copy of your .pclr to: Include a little note referencing this post and we'll see if we can spot what is causing the issue.

It is not a preconfigured input. It is just a place for the settings that are specific to ethanol sensors (i.e normally DI's dont have fault settings etc). So you still need to set up a DI just as you have shown (except dont forget to turn the pull-up on!), then you can make further tweaks in the "ethanol sensor" settings menu item if required to make it behave they way you want.

No way really to use this type of interface with our present ecu's. You can wire a global fuel trim pot to an analog input but you are not going to be able to apply that trim to a specific cell or save/store etc. Have you tried tuning via the mixture map function?

They used to call these a "knobs box", most ecu brands used to offer them but they went out of fashion about 20 years ago. I do still find doing injector timing or ignition timing with them a little easier since you can do big changes quickly but for fuel mapping you just need to learn your hot keys... Space bar jumps to the active cell. Q to increase, A to decrease. If you have a lambda connected then use quick tune manual mode and hit F10 - job done. For those that dont know what I'm on about:

Hmm, my message appears to be sent. I just resent it. Please tell me more on PM about what you are trying to log and I will see if there is a way to do it.

Anthony, I have given you my email via PM. ".pclr" is your map/cal/tune file. I'm not sure I fully understand what you are trying to do, although when I get your log that might help explain it. Why do you want to see voltage?

Hi Mike, The top part of this query I will reply to via PM as some of it relating to how the plugin interacts may be privileged info. For Inj8, it connects to both pin 19 & 6 directly so you can take your pick. Either will do exactly the same. Some of that table above is wrong from the info I can see. If you tell me where you found it I will get it corrected so it doesnt confuse someone else in the future. Our schematic shows it like this: Inj7 = Pin 18 Aux2 = Pin 104 Aux5 = Pin 35 Aux 6 = Pin 4 Any of the Aux 1-8 can do PWM fuel pump control. They are very similar. The difference is a temp input has a pull-up resistor connected to 5V so that a resistance type sensor is converted to a voltage. You can use a AN Volt channel to measure temp if you connect an external pullup, but it is more difficult to do the reverse (use a Temp input as a volt input).

Simon's link works for me but it may be a permissions issue that doesnt let someone outside of Link to download it? Here are public shared links to the same documents: Manual: https://1drv.ms/b/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPixTQ00erP6j-ZVYV 4AG20V: https://1drv.ms/b/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPixVt_NrEOaxVzKuB The G1 Linkplus still uses the same trigger sub-board.

You can try - although I dont think this is your problem, the same "gap location" rules do still apply to hall triggers.

To give a little more info... There are many different scenario's or reasons for a piggy back type install but typically it is done where the aftermarket ECU cannot properly control or duplicate some function that the OEM ecu has. This would most commonly be features such as automatic transmission control, cruise control/DBW, or CAN comms to other modules in the vehicle such as the instrument cluster. The OEM ecu would typically only be left with the bare minimum function it needs to control, all other engine control will be done by the aftermarket ECU. The problem with many modern OEM ECU's is they have many saftey and diagnostic strategies built in that detect when for instance the injectors are disconnected. This means the installer needs to be very familiar with how the OEM system works so he can work out a method to "fool it" into thinking everything is connected and happy. Piggyback installs are often very difficult to get right and should only be attempted by a very competent installer.

The reluctor scope above does revel a potential problem but nothing I would expect to cause you high rpm issues: The missing teeth are very near TDC were crank decceleration is greatest. This can make the "gap" more difficult for the ECU to see. It is also not a great idea to have the missing teeth anywhere in the region of normal ignition timing (i.e 0-40deg) as engine position information is less accurate during the missing teeth event. The best location for the gap on a 4 cyl engine is somewhere around either 90° ATDC or 90 BTDC. Having said that, these factors would generally be more of a problem at low speeds so I doubt they are related to your problem. If it its not a big job to shift your trigger wheel about 90deg it will only be better. So I dont see any good reason why this reluctor sensor and wheel shouldnt work for you. I initially thought our trigger scope might not be very useful at high RPM with this tooth count but I just tried a 60-2 @ 8000RPM and our trigger scope still captured it accurately so at least we have a tool you can use for diagnosis. I suggest you go back to the reluctor, then if you still have trigger errors at high RPM then do another trigger scope at that RPM and we will see if that gives us any clues.

Can you post an image from your oscilloscope capture for us to take a look.

That should be all you need to do. I'm not sure what you mean here? The MAP limit table is just as it sounds - a limit for manifold pressure. Just like an RPM limit you set it to something above the normal maximum value that you run so that if something goes wrong (i.e wastegate hose ruptures for instance), then the MAP limit will cut the engine hopefully before it destroys itself. If you normally run say 200KPa boost then you might set your MAP limit to say 220KPa.

The ignition and injection would only be connected/controlled by the G4+. The stock ECU would not be connected to inj or ign at all.

I wasnt suggesting your car had a clutch switch from the factory, I was just trying to point out if you fit one you can use it for both flat shift and launch. You can activate launch by a virtual aux. The virtual aux can be triggered by vehicle speed or many other parameters. Yes.

I dont think the balancer OD is causing an issue yet. I still think we should be able to get your reluctor sensor working ok.

Hi Anthony, I think you have found a bug or problem with the AFR Avg parameter. In my testing it seems to be adding the two lambdas together but then not dividing by two to get the average. The Lambda average parameter works correctly though, so as a work around for now you can just log Lambda average but set your units to AFR and it will display averaged AFR. I'm not sure what is causing your decimal place problem, normally if using Lambda it will do 3dp by default and 2dp for AFR. I will need to see your .pclr and log to work that out.

I forgot to mention also you could probably use the same switch for both launch and flat shift - this might be something like a clutch switch or gear knob switch

Below is the pinout for the GTR expansion connectors. You might need 2 x XS looms depending on how you want these functions to work. For instance for Launch control, some users like to have this activated by a switch (a DI is needed), others may choose to activate it by existing conditions alone such as Vehicle speed (no extra DI needed). Any switches should have one terminal connected to GND and the otherside connected to a DI - notice the expansion connectors only have 2 x DI's in each connector so that's why I say you might need 2 x XS loom. Your wideband analog output would connect to GND and any of the "Volt" inputs.

You will not need to connect any of those inputs. I dont know what the oem ecu does with them but our plugins dont have them connected and everything still functions ok.

Not much wrong with those two scope pics, so I can only suspect the tooth size is a bit marginal for it to work reliably at high speed. Im assuming you do have the pullup turned on? Below is what the datasheet for that sensor says about tooth size, so to me it appears your wheel might be pushing the boundaries a bit for that sensor: Is it a big job for you to refit the reluctor sensor? I would like to see a scope of that if we could - if the sensor was sold with the wheel then you would expect them to be compatible...

What are your trigger scope files with .lnk extension? That trigger wheel wont work with a hall sensor since the "half depth" missing tooth will sometimes be seen as one long tooth. It should work ok with a reluctor sensor though. I would still like to see the trigger scope to confirm. Note when you do a trigger scope you can save them as a log file.

I have had a quick look at your .pclr and logs. As for fuel economy; There is not too much I see wrong in your basic setup but I think the main reason for poor fuel economy is just the fuel table is not well tuned so CLL is working too hard trying to correct the bad map. There is +/-15% CLL corrections in the log. You should turn off CLL until it is tuned properly. As for idle; One thing I notice in your log is the idle stepper is continuously winding in and out - this may upset your idle. I think it is caused by the AC step, I suspect AC request comes in over CAN bus in the vehicle? So for now I suggest you put zeros in your AC step table.

I will PM you our email address. Otherwise, share via onedrive, google drive, dropbox etc. If you want to reduce idle RPM at normal temp then you would reduce the highlighted values in the table below. However if you only see 20RPM error then I dont think you will get it much better.