Jump to content

Can’t start car - anything I check through software


MichaelR32GTR

Recommended Posts

I have a link g4+ fury ecu, and I’m not sure if it could be related to my starting issues, hoping there’s something in the software that can tell me

 

its cranking over but can’t get it to start, all 6 spark plugs are wet with fuel when I try to crank it over, few pop and bangs in exhaust but won’t start 

 

firstly I have triple checked mechanical timing (rb26) I have been around these engines for 12 years and done this many many times, Inlet cam gear dot/mark matches backing plate timing mark, same goes with exhaust cam gear, and my balancer 0degree mark matches backing plate mark and piston at tdc.

 

I just put a timing light on and while cranking I locked it at 0 degrees and it’s spot on, locked it at 10 degrees to double check and was spot on again

 

i did an injector test from 1-6 and all are ticking/pulsating.

 

did an ignition test, earthed spark plugs against the head, could hear and see all 6 zapping away 

 

has fuel pressure while priming and cranking 

 

Checked trigger data in runtime values and cam and crank trigger are working 

 

I even tried abit of start ya bastard in the intake and that didn’t work just for a bang out the exhaust

 

i feel like I have exhausted everything but the ecu but I doubt something like that can just fail randomly 

 

any suggestions I’m all ears

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is there maybe a ground or sensor ground that was taken off during the process and forgotten?

If you took the coils out is it possible they might have been plugged back in the wrong order so spark isn't happening on the right cylinder?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah nothing on that side, double checked earths on back of head and they all good

 

also did a cold comp test as cars been sitting for weeks and was 150psi across

 

with the 35 gtr coil kit, each plug is the perfect length for that particular coil so very hard to get wrong but have checked 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems odd. If your timing light result is right then the ECU is receiving positional information, if your injectors and pulsing and coils are firing then thats all the basics to make an engine go.

When you connect to the ECU and look at all the live data - do all sensors appear to be working / giving accurate values? If a coolant sensor is giving an out of range reading maybe you're getting far too much or far too little fuel due to incorrect compensation to start the engine?

Be a good idea to attach a log file of trying to start the engine. Include a few second pause before and after cranking too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So after doing some reading and hearing timing could be out 360degrees

 

i added 360 to my current timing offset of -103 and started first go

 

how does this happen if all mechanical timing marks (cam gears intake/exhaust), and balancer all line up 100% to their timing marks, and  piston 1 is at TDC 

and also checking with timing light was spot on

 

I even marked my platinum racing products cam sensor with a white dot so it would go back where it was while diagnosing this past week 

 

would this need any further investigating or be a cause of concern 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The crankshaft turns 2 revs per engine cycle, if you are checking the timing on the crankshaft pulley then the timing will look the same whether you are sparking on the correct stroke or 360deg later.  The only thing that could cause that (assuming you are using multi-tooth trigger mode) is the cam tooth passes the sensor 180deg earlier or later than it did.  

So the mystery is how did the cam tooth move when you only took the turbo off for coating?  Or did you just miss mentioning that important bit of info?

The little cam tooth/lug thing isn't dowelled onto the pulley in those PRP kits is it - this could be bolted on 90 or 180 out if you had that off?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I changed the battery today and at same time changed the timing offset, 

 

over the coarse of the week I have been checking and triple checking everything Realy

i did have timing belt cover off, cam sensor and cam gears to 100% make sure cam dowels were there and in the cam gears,  all timing marks line up, piston on tdc with valves closed etc, to rule any movement out of the equation, amongst others things 

 

yeh I know that little prp cam gear pickup, I took a photo of it before removal and it went back on as it was, even got pics of the engine been built to confirm its in the same spot….

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The location of the cam tooth is the only thing that can change the timing by 360.  The trigger offset is the angular distance from TDC #1 compression stroke to the first crank tooth after that cam tooth passes its sensor.  For the offset to change by 360 it means the cam tooth or cam sensor has rotated by 180 cam degrees in relation to the cam lobes compared to the previous offset.     

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...