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It did stay connected but only 1 time for some reason. I've tried a couple times since and the ecu always disconnects

This seems to work decently well on my 5sgte. I am running a coil-on-plug setup, which is how I have individual trims and gains on a g4+.

So can you see any missing teeth on that crank wheel?

Does Lambda 1 status and Lambda 1 Error report any errors? Is Lambda 1 temp around 780°C?

Default EJ20 AVCS values in G4+:

That sounds a bit borderline considering a multimeter has quite a low update rate. Just reading back at some of your earlier posts in this thread, you mentioned you had done a test by grounding pin 16 with a bit of welding wire or similar - did the ecu stay connected when cranking when you done that?

45 drops from 12.5 to 7.73 while cranking

Hello, I have a supralink g4+ ecu in my supra, and I am considering swapping to a 8hp70 gearbox (from v160). I'm wondering if anybody knows if the Ecu is capable of talking with the turbolamik TCU. What would I need to make this work? Has anybody done it?

Ok, great. thanks guys! Will get a sensor and see if I can adapt the OE wiring without having to cut off the OE connector from the harness. I wonder what the corresponding plug for the Toyota connector would be... Also: Any pointers for a starting point on the other settings (window length, gain, etc) for these engines with that sensor?

Can some one post what are the default pid values for this or the intake only ecus please?

Nice to meet you. I am a newbie who recently installed LINK ECU. I am having trouble reading the cooling water temperature. The water temperature sensor is a genuine 180SX. As you can see in the picture, the analog temp is always 4.96v. （IAT sensor is not currently connected) The sensor has been inspected on its own and the resistance value is normal and seems to be fine. I have inspected the wiring and there is no 5v voltage at the sensor connector, and furthermore, there seems to be no 5v output from terminal 18 (AN temp1) on the ECU. I don't know if this is an incorrect ECU setting or if the ECU itself is malfunctioning. Can anyone please help me with this? I'm using translation software so the text may be strange. This is a question from Japan.

Maybe should I run a quick tune first? Maybe that's why my lambda target table 2 isn't correct?

This post here might help you better understand injection timing on a rotary: FWIW, I'm running the 130* injector timing figure from the Link S6/S7/S8 RX7 base maps in my single turbo 13B-REW FD and it's perfectly happy with that.

Hello Adam, thanks i'll have a look when i get time.

hey Adam thanks for replying, ok so I left my e-throttle feedforward at zero for now. Set my Ethanol sensor DI to rising active edge IAT fuel trim turned off, and VVT to the cam angle test calibration run. Why are my multifuel settings are wrong? I didn't even touched them. I thought the ECU would be plug and play after installing the necessary info as lambda and ethanol for example. I set my injector size to 287cc at 3bar which is OEM.. The size of my log file is too big so here's the google drive link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TPZYa3JY5sYiqp0JcMKrMV0k__y8h-ym/view?usp=sharing Oh and by the way the fan turning on by itself and lights on issue is gone, I don't have to worry about this anymore, it's just the tuning takes much more time. When I see the fuel table it makes me scared lmao. Do you think I can drive with this configuration for now just to take some logs? For the moment I am just parked and I don't move the car, just start and give some revs.

Having an issue with my lambda sensor... this is a Link Lambda on a Link G4+ ECU. When I start the car cold and read the numbers in laptop it is spot on with a secondary sensor I have - reading 0.95 <-> 1.05 After a couple of minutes (by which time the car has warmed up a bit) the numbers jump by about 9! So reads 9.95 <-> 10.05 The numbers still move richer and leaner as you'd expect, but they're offset by this large figure. If I stop car and start again, it remains at this high (lean) figure. Given it's worked for a ages and I've not changed the wiring, and it works when it first starts cold, ideas on the cause - what I should check? Or is it goosed? If so, why would it be goosed?

I have tuned the antilag etc off and tried it but still the same, i have tried to capture a log as well, not sure how good it is because i cant leave the engine running to long with the missfire as bad as it is and how rich it is lol Log 2024-04-26 9;25;47 am.llg

Hi guys, Have another question about above set up, has been working fine for a day on the dyno and a track day or so, then all of a sudden the keypad wouldn't power up, I know the output is okay because it shares it with the dash and it works perfect, only way to make it power up again was to unplug and replug the 4 pin DTM on the rear of the keypad?? Any ideas, I changed the CAN ID from 405 to 400 and stored, then changed back to 405 and stored again, and also added a power on delay of 0.2 seconds and now seems to be fine again at the moment, but trying to prevent it happening again Thanks in advance

Off topic but which was is the correct way to wire a radiator fan? 30 batt 87 fan 85 ecu 86 switched 12v Or 30 batt 87 fan 85 switched 12v 86 ecu

How come the picture has HT leads to the spark plugs? Were the coils changed later? Can you give us a picture of the trigger wheel.

coil and engine

in front just behind the belt pulley

There should be no dependence on the dash being present. The only 2 connections to the dash are tacho from ecu to dash, and speed signal from dash to ecu. Neither should cause a misfire. I would suggest doing a short PC log with the engine running and unplug the dash so we can see what else changes in the ecu when you do that.

Im having trouble understanding how to tune injector timing on rotaries. I’ve done as much research as I can and I can’t find all the details I need. I’m aware the end of injection is 180 degrees. However, the Link ecu instructions says to use the start of injection in order for the fuel cut function to operate correctly. On the base map, start of injection is 130 degrees. I’ve checked base maps from other ECU manufacturers and the injector timing are different on almost all of them. I’ve heard people say “Just keep playing with the timing until the engine is at its richest AFR and that’s the ideal timing.” Ok but is that at idle or 1500 RPM or what? I’ve read from other sources that the start of injection on a rotary happens at 440 degrees, yet the Link ECU will only let you set 360 degrees as the highest value. I’ve watched the Haltech rotary tuning video and they say start of injection is 270 degrees from idle to about 4,000 rpm then slowly increase to 330 degrees to redline. I’m in search of some solid advice because my concern is getting false AFR readings as a result of wrong injector timing. Basically fresh air and fuel being sucked into the exhaust then consequently blowing the engine. Thanks in advance.