Adamw

Yep, looks good so far.

In multipoint group mode the injector drives are fired in 2 groups, all even drives fire together and all odd drives fire together. Whats the injector resistance? If low impedance, does it have a ballast resistor?

The odo and speedo arent driven by the ecu at all, the gearbox speed sensor connects directly to the speedo.

Density doesnt look right, the other 2 are in the ball park. Density for petrol is generally around 0.745, pure ethanol is around 0.789, so you should be 70% of the way between those two. So about 0.776 by my count.

This would suggest it is mis-syncing - the cam sensor isnt working or isnt being seen so it will sync on the correct crank rotation approx 50% of start attempts and on the wrong phase the other 50% of attempts (roughly). You really need to get an oscilloscope on the crank and cam sensor to see what is going on.

No, it hasnt been implemented in G4+ firmware.

Hmm, thats a very odd one. Im suspicious there maybe a hardware issue here. Can you try removing the ecu from the car and powering up on the bench, then trying to connect - just to eliminate power supply issues. You can power the ecu up on the bench by clipping power on to the big TVS diode like so:

The switching thresholds on the DI's are fixed by hardware, not user adjustable. From memory it needs to rise above about 1.8V to be considered active, and fall below about 1.0V to be considered inactive. A pull-down resistor connected to ground might be enough to solve it. Another option you could possibly use an analog input (can measure up to 5.0V), use this voltage as a condition in a GP output/virtual aux, which you can then assign as your Brake switch source.

I would try to trace the original wiring first rather than just replacing with new ground wires. The reason for this suggestion is say for example the poor ground is due to something like a corroded ground strap on the engine, then just replacing the wires to the ecu isnt going to solve the problem - and the bad engine ground is likely going to other problems. So in my opinion it would be best to try to determine where the issue is first, if that becomes difficult to diagnose only then try running new grounds.

0-5V = 0-1250C

Sorry, I kept forgetting to come back to this. Im going to have to talk to some of the smarter engineers to see if they can suggest something. Its got a very odd circuit on this input and I dont really understand how it is meant to work.

I dont really want to even guess with the difficulties in the electronics world at the moment. My feeling is less than a year but thats about as specific as I could be.

Ok, it sounds like you may have a bad connection somewhere. A scope would certainly make your life easier.

This is not a subject I that I have ever researched much so I dont have much to offer. Only that I have seen cars with a sensor or switch on both the low and high side - or only on the high side. But I have never come across one with only a sensor on the low side.

So it appears you have a broken/disconnected or high resistance main ground. Pin 1 should be very near 0V at all times.

Yes, it would need 720 sync for semi sequential.

16/33/34 are nearly always related to power supply. Your battery voltage is very erratic - I think that is the first thing I would look at trying to improve.

If you are sure you are getting no pulse from pin 110 when injector 5 is in test mode then contact tech support to get the ecu inspected. Make sure you are using an LED test light or similar so it is fast enough to see the very short pulse.

Set to semi-sequential, Inj drive 1 to Cyl 1&7 Inj 2 to Cyl 2&8 Inj 3 to Cyl 3&5 Inj 4 to Cyl 4&6 It will then effectively be sequential/timed injection, 1 cyl of the pairs will get its fuel 90deg earlier than ideal, the other cyl will get it fuel 90deg later than ideal.

It would work but modifying the board will void your warranty.

Can you please just follow instructions and answer the questions. We are going to be here forever if you keep randomly changing stuff with no logical diagnosis. Is it showing 100% tps when the throttle blade is closed or open?

Are you saying it will run on either offset?

Scope looks fine/normal from here but would need the actual file to confirm. Have you used the injector test function? What voltage do you have on the injector 5 wire at the ecu connector?

Ok, I can see what is causing that error now. At the point I have marked with an arrow below, the ecu has removed power to the throttle motor (DC goes to zero), when this happens the ecu expects to see the throttle blade move towards closed due to the return spring, but you can see that both the TPS sensors stay at 100% after this point. So this either means the throttle was already closed, or possibly the mechanism is a bit sticky so the spring alone is not enough to move it closed? Does it appear to be working correctly now or is it working in reverse of the pedal?

One potential problem you have there is the trigger 2 edge occurs at almost the same time as the "sync tooth 2" that you have specified, it may potentially cross over that edge under some conditions. Change the sync tooth setting to 15 so it is well away from where the cam tooth occurs, then try your 2 offsets again, 348 or -12. Both will show the timing is correct, but only one will actually allow it run.