Simon

Make sure you have the correct coil / igniter combo. The late coils had an inbuilt igniter but earlier ones did not. To check measure the resistance between the power and signal wire. If its low around 1ohm then you need an external igniter. Also check the voltage to the coils. If this is not 10 or more volts you will have a weak spark.

Hi David #2 is in there already. But have to admit its not covered in the help. The Set and Resume inputs perform this function. If Cruise is operating and you hit the Set input it will increase the speed. And the resume will decrease the speed. #3 is a current work in progress and should be coming soon.

Hi "Bob" We endeavor to take all feedback onboard. But with all things tasks have to be prioritized. We feel we have a working and effective traction control. However if we find there are people that feel improvements can be made or that what is offered is not up to expectations as time passes we will make improvements.

Correct on the firing order wiring and just sharing the output. On the Storm Black it does not apply, But on the earlier storm versions you can only use that pin for one or the other.

Hi Wockie Image attached from the help file. In your case there will be no igniter so will be wired direct to the coils in the same order.

You need to tune the ECU!!!! The MAP is purely a start up map to allow the engine to start. Every engine is different. You have an adjustable ECU its whole point is to allow you to tune to make the best power possible for the given mods / engine condition.

HR will be mint uses the same pattern as the non HR. We just had one done in a boat that had been converted to manual throttle.

You could try with no precrank prime. And increase crank enrichment. Ill leave it up to the tuners out there to comment more.

Reply sent.

Yep I would expect to see the signal shared this is relatively normal. Our inputs aren't able to switch as an output and should have no impact on the signal through to the factory dash. Unfortunately we don't have an actual sled to test on. And for us our experience is very limited as the product was produced where we were a contract manufacturer. All support was therefor intended to be through that dealer. Have you tried another track speed sensor?

You could try setting the Di2 as a wheel speed input any wheel will do. Then assign the driven and non driven speed source to the selected wheel speed. This is done in the chassis and body menu. You should then have a speed you can log off Di2 The speedometer you refer to I'm assuming is the factory dash? We have no connection to this at all so I assume it is fed direct from the sensor. So I don't think there are any settings that can be changed to solve this part.

Yeah part of the reluctance to add triggers now is due to the amount of odd one off type application requests. If the volume is there and its even 1 every couple of months then is much more worth while. Each trigger addition takes about 3 days of engineering time once all the testing is done so is a bigish task for each one. At this point in time its not going to be high on the todo list.

Hi Grant I have had a chat with the engineers and have to say its not going to be quick getting it in to the firmware, Got a bunch of other items further up the list. How many sales a month do you think could be picked up if we got it in at some point?

If you can attach you map we can have a go at simulating. If you set the Di to a GP frequency and see what the raw signal is doing. If you have a frequency reading after the track has stopped then the input is picking up something else other than the speed or it is getting noise from something.

Hi Jamm Did you follow up on the post as its easy to miss a post every now and then. Ill go have a look and see if we can answer it.

It will be 7bar then. Go for the 7 bar cal in PC link

Hi Clive On the closed loop there are short term trims that are reset at each power down, You can also use mixture map tuning where you use logged information to base fuelling adjustments from. Once these are applied the change is permanent. We don't offer support of MAF but generally a well tuned TPS with MAP overlay will give excellent results. Are you running 8 ITB with two motors to control or just 2 butterflies.

No should heve enough effect to stop you starting the engine. But it is going to have to be tuned from there

There are some good options from these guys http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=1815&DepartmentID=16&CategoryID=56&MenuID=sub7&BasketID=&RepID=

The I/O is very dependent on what you want to control. If you list all functions that require switching and it out numbers the available auxouts the solution is going up an ECU to get more I/O Or maybe go to wasted spark to free up 4 outputs.

The Atom is not able to control a stepper for idle control at most it can do a ISC solenoid 2 or 3 wire. With all AN volts used there is no way to bring in the TPS. TPS is a critical signal and I would be looking at getting it wired in even if it means loosing another input. It might be time to look at upgrading to the G4+ Storm black as for a V8 applications is a superb value option allowing 8 channels of fuel and ignition and stepper control and many more inputs. A loom is the same so no need to fully rewire just add on the extras.

If its a simple PWM signal that has the duty cycle varied not the frequency then yes it can be done with the G4 and onwards units. Ideally if you had a sample of the signal through the temp range we could confirm.

Hi Ross Think Sam has you sorted now?

Yeah it is a bit of a catch 22. I would only advise doing a piggy back on applications where there is factory systems that we are unable to control or CAN that is not supported. We cant be making the atom too powerful as we need people to have reason to go for the higher end ecus

The E throttle outputs on the Fury or Xtreme could drive the motor but there is no firmware to support its position control.