Adamw

Doesnt matter in terms of the ecu or CAN bus, but I have no idea if the trans is ok or not without it.

This scope has revealed a further wiring issue, which I will cover next, but the scope shows the ecu is happy with the trigger signal and would be commanding a spark. The new issue is when you reversed the crank sensor wiring, we see in the scope that your cam signal has also reversed. You can also see cross talk from the crank sensor on the cam signal. This means somehow you have the cam sensor wired in series with the crank sensor. Most likely you have the pinout on one or both of them wrong. Cam sensor pinout viewed looking into connector, Out=trig 2, Gnd= Sensor ground, S=Shield: Crank pinout:

Connect timing light to #1 lead, turn on individual cyl ign trim to single mode and put 20deg retard on cyl 1, if your timing mark moves your offset is correct.

attach another scope capture please

Could you possibly set up the laptop with a permanent team viewer or similar remote desktop access so we can log in and have a poke around sometime? Im assuming we can observe it crash without having an ecu connected etc?

They are pretty easy to spot in the log, you will see a big spike to high or low RPM and a step in trigger 1 error counter at the same time. I just noticed it appears to happen very close to the limiter and you have quite aggressive RPM limit settings, so it might be the harsh change in crank acceleration or a vibration from the limiter that is causing it. It is possible under hard acceleration you may not think you are reaching the limit due to tacho delay or damping. Can you try it with the limiter settings changed to below as a test:

Yes, splice the 12V and gnd. The internal pull-up is suitable for a GT101. Note the GT101 is only suitable for the 12T crank wheels, not the missing tooth options.

It shouldnt return to stage 1 during a shift, it should only drop back to or stay in stage 2. This means it is dropping below either the MAP or RPM activation values for longer than the deactivation time. So, most likely reduce the MAP activation or Increase the deactivation time out. I think you may have attached the wrong log as the only thing related to boost control in there is the target.

Pull the lid off the case and confirm the blue LED is glowing with the ign switch is on. If not then you are missing the main power supply.

Your crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity, you need to swap the +/- wires at the sensor plug. The cam sensor has a slightly odd waveform to it but the ecu is interpreting it correctly at least in this particular scope, so will likely be fine.

Do you mean the 6 pin CAN/USB connector? It is a LTW Ceres mini series.

Link dont make a GTO/3000GT ecu. I suspect it is possibly a Evo3 ecu, hand modified by them. Since we haven't done any of the applications engineering and have little info about this car, support such as providing a base map or diagnosis of something that doesnt work would have to come from them. As Confused mentions, they are a reputable dealer and I wouldnt expect any issues, just something you need to be aware of.

Even with your ignition timing at 0 your idle speed is 200RPM above target, when you touch the throttle, idle ign control turns off, advance returns to normal values so the RPM jumps up to a value higher than your lockout. So, it appears your throttle is open too much, you would normally aim to have the idle RPM sitting on target when the idle ign is sitting on about the target. For the problem with idle ign interfering with cruise, this is the main reason you normally have a speed lockout. But you may improve the situation by dropping the TPS lockout to 0.5% so idle control disables with the slightest touch of pedal.

There are no pins for Ign 5 & 6 on that ecu.

Signal ground is sensor ground.

Your fuel table is not suitable for modelled mode, you could probably just double the values in there as a better starting point. To do this, click the empty cell at the top left axes intersection and type "*2", then enter. Turn off IAT trim table and copy the example charge temp table out of the help file. In accel fuel set your cold correction table to 1.0 right across. In your idle actuator settings, change your integral gain to 0.05. I agree with Derek that it possibly sounds retarded and the trigger offset is a little unusual. Your offset of -352 would mean the sensor is sitting right in the missing tooth gap when the engine is at TDC, is this what you see if you turn the engine by hand to TDC?

"Trigger -" is sensor ground. You use the same signal wire and ground as you would for a hall sensor, the only difference is no power wire is needed. I dont know the BMW engine variations well, but usually a reluctor wheel design is different than a hall effect wheel. Reluctor teeth are typically sharper/pointy and the missing tooth cutout would be to full depth.

Digital inputs>GP Input>GP Speed. Set the source that it is wired to, set the calibration so the speed reads correct.

Attach a log.

You have the ECU CAN set to 1Mbit and the PMU set to 500K, you need to set both the same. I already said above that the fuel pump wont activate by the keypad alone, it is set up as an enable, not an override. The water pump should override from the keypad though. However, it is not my job to support a 3rd party product, you should seek help from ECUmaster if it doesn't function as expected.

It is pretty simple. There is a 3min video showing both the ecu and realdash setup the the realdash thread above.

Try these. In the transmit stream I have used injector duty cycle in place of torque as G4+ wire-in ECU's dont have a torque management function. IDC generally represents torque quite well, use the multiplier to achieve a realistic peak value and use the offset to zero out torque at idle. The ecu will receive gear position, oil temp (CAN TC #8), Torque reduction request (CAN DIG1), blip request (CAN DIG2), Neutral/park status, and speed (RR Wheel speed). For the torque reduction you can do it in various ways, but what I have done in the past for other transcontrollers is set up a virtual aux so for low torque shifts it uses retard only, for high torque shifts it does a cut (trigger the gear shift cut). For the blip just use the DI to switch E-throttle target tables. turbolamik receive stream ID1602.lcs turbolamik transmit stream ID1536.lcs

Fan outputs only activate when the engine is running. If there is no CAN your CAN function statuses will say "OFF", if there is CAN they will state "Inactive".

You can likely wire the sensor direct to a DI, it will depend how much voltage the sensor can generate but I expect it would be ok.

You need to use Ign 1-4.