Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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I dont see a lot of difference in the log, but there is only a small 1 second long patch where is is idling with the fan on so not much to work off.
I have noticed you can get a harsh feeling idle if idle ignition control is too aggressive, and derivative can add noise. So the first thing I would try is set the idle ignition derivative gain to 0, and if that doesnt improve it then try lowering proportional also. You will need at least 0.5 proportional for good idle control though I suspect.
If Idle ignition changes dont help much then I would say the issue is fuel related, you have quite large injectors so you can have a large imbalance between cylinders. The lambda only shows the average of all cylinders so if you have 1 or 2 cylinders that are lean it will not be happy. To test this you can change the lambda target table in the cells around idle area to 0.95 to see if it is happier.
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There is no specific "start up hold time" status, it is included is "startup". But I just done a quick test and it doesnt behave exactly how the help file explains it so there may be an oversight somewhere, not sure if the help is correct or the way it works is correct. Ill discuss with engineering next week.
It behaves more like a "minimum hold time" that starts timing from cranking for me. So, say I have hold time set to 2secs, if my engine starts straight away(starts quicker than 2sec), it holds for 2sec then decays. If my engine takes longer than 2sec to start then it continues to hold until the RPM is above 400RPM, then decays.
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Provided the ABS computer is no longer connected then it should just be connected direct to sensor ground and a DI. The voltage will need to go above about 1.5V and below 1.0V.
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CANXPAN is a CAN cable, not USB. USB cable needs to have a specific impedance and shielding for acceptable performance.
I would suggest something like this: https://amzn.eu/d/hp3HbNj with the normal tuning cable plugged into the back, or something like this: https://a.co/d/4Gdrzij with the end cut off and replaced with a CANF.
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Attach the tune and the actual log file, no one can tell you anything from a picture.
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All timing and engine control comes from the crank wheel. The ecu uses the first crank tooth after the missing teeth as the index to reference where TDC is. The cam sensor is only used to determine phase during startup - ie, is the next TDC exhaust stroke or compression stroke. Once the engine has started the ecu can keep track of crank position and doesnt need the cam.
If the cam sensor is disconnected/not working and fuel is set to sequential and/or ign is direct then it will only sync by "luck", approx 50% of start attempts it will sync on the wrong phase and wont start.
9 hours ago, powerboy said:Is there a special algorithm to track vacuum in the manifold while cranking?
Only in specific trigger modes in G4+. G4X has a user configurable MAP level sync strategy. Note however, if single throttle then MAP sync is only possible with 1 or 3 cyl engines or a 2 cylinder odd fire. With ITB throttles and the MAP sensor connected to one intake port you can do other engine types.
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Provided the open loop lambda correction is already enabled this will just look after itself without a 4D table. The equation load source = MAP takes care of the change in air density, the open loop lambda correction takes care of the richer target as boost increases.
If the turbine is restrictive you may need to enable a 4D MAP or MGP Vs RPM table to pull a little fuel out at the top end if it goes richer than target as the turbine starts to effect efficiency. But usually if you do, most of the table will be 0 with just some small negative values in the bottom right corner at high RPM/high boost.
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Ideally you want ecu, coils and injectors all connected to the same source so the ecu is applying the correct deadtimes and dwell times. But that would mean the wiring to the ecu and injectors would have to be big enough to handle the "fuse" current that the coils require which isn't always practical.
So I would generally connect the ECU and injectors to an ADIO. Coils to a High current output. E-throttle supply will need to be its own ADIO. All the other aux stuff (VCT, Flex, Lambda) is quite low current can go to a single ADIO, or even the same one as ecu.
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Can you give a bit more detail. Is it a new install or has been running fine previously but is now giving errors? When does the error occur? Where did the sensor come from? Error 49 is often an indication of a fake sensor with incorrect pump cell resistance. Can you provide a log and the tune.
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21 hours ago, Clattie said:
On a side note though, what does that percentage value do? Wouldn't you want it at 100% all the time?
Some APS and TPS sub sensors dont cover the full range of movement, they might stop reading at 70% for example, so in this example you would set it to 70%. Since yours reads the full range of motion it needs to be set to 100%.
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Yes, that will be fine.
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Yes, BMW, VAG, Volvo etc. Usually 200Hz, Min clamp 20% or higher. Fully closed is around 15-20%,below that they start to open again. Available in 2 and 3 wire.
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A VR sensor is fine. Pull-up should be off. The arming threshold is around 1.7V so it may not be outputting enough voltage. Did you test at reasonable speed?
You will really need an oscilloscope to see what is wrong with the signal to diagnose.
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That is a stepper motor. You will need a Storm, Fury or Xtreme for the aux 5/6/7/8 highside drives to control that, as well as power wiring as per the ECU hold power diagram in the help file.
A solenoid type valve is much easier and only needs 1 or 2 auxes. The Bosch ones are common with convenient hose tail type connections in both straight through and right angle configurations.
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You only need to adjust the master fuel to bring the mixture right. To bring the idle down, make the numbers in the idle base position table smaller.
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Pretty wierd they call it a 36-1 when it doesnt have a "-1".
If you need to remove the tooth yourself, then turn the crank to 90BTDC or 90ATDC by hand (just roughly be eye is fine) and remove the tooth that is under the sensor at that position.
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On 7/25/2023 at 8:46 AM, Clattie said:
I'll pull the plugs out tomorrow and see if they spark.
Did you do this yet?
48 minutes ago, Clattie said:I also noticed fault code 77 which was a tracking fault on the APS, How can I resolve that issue?
Hard to tell without the map, but since the accumulator counts up when you push on the pedal and recovers when at zero, my guess would be the AP Sub 100% setting is not set to 100.
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Is the ecu going to be powered from the PDM also?
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The trigger looks ok to me so I suspect the "noisy" RPM in the log is real. I notice your lambda is all over the place, very rich in some areas, very lean in others, are you sure it is not misfiring?
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Although the WRX1/2 ECU could do it, this particular ECU is quite limited with the amount of spare IO it has so it would be a bit of a struggle. Most of your Auxes and DI's that will be needed for AVCS are already used for other functions.
What is your intention for throttle body? You may gain 1 aux if you use the V9 throttle and idle valve.
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Is the MAP sensor really a Link 4bar? It has a little more vacuum than I would typically expect in overrun?
Your fuel table is a complete mess. I would start again with these changes:
- Zero out warmup enrichment in the 70degC column since you are running at ~77.
- Put some values in the accel fuel cold correction table, 1.0 at operating temp and above, tapering up to about 5.0 at the lefthand end.
- Simplify the fuel table, you dont need a million cells. Start with 1000RPM columns and for rows start at 20kpa, with 20kpa increments rows up to 100kpa then 40kpa rows above that.
- Make the IAT fuel trim table 2D.
Confirm your trigger offset, yours seems a bit odd. You have a trigger error at about time section 4:47, this may mean the arming threshold is a bit high or it could be rotor phasing due to the offset.
I would suggest looking at one of the HP Academy or Evans performance courses to learn some fundamentals before tuning.
V8 independent throttle bodies controlled by single E-Throttle actuator
in G4x
Posted
A sensor on the motor and one on the throttle shaft typically doesnt work because you need a near perfectly linear relationship between sub and main, and linkages that work in an arc rarely give a linear relationship.
Provided the linkage to each side is close enough to mechanically identical then you could probably get away with a TP sub on the throttle shaft on one side and TP main on the other side. However, I would probably just put a dual track TP sensor on one throttle shaft to keep it simple.