Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Sorry I must have opened the wrong file.
It still appears to be a mechanical issue to need this much duty cycle, it would be rare to ever see more than 60% DC on this engine.
Can you do another short log with proportional gain at 5.00, integral gain at 0.50 and base duty at 55%.
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Both your cam and crank sensors are wired back to front. You need to swap the +/- pins and the sensor plugs, then reset base timing.
For the VVT, turn off aux 2, turn it back on, when it pops up with the message asking if you want to set default axes etc you must choose yes. You then need to do the cam angle test to set the VVT offset correctly.
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It sounds like someone might be making up stories. Many hundreds of 1ZZ and 2ZZ's out there running Link ecu's, we have fully supported that engine including the VVT and high cam system (VVTLi) since G4 about 15years ago.
I just saw you have another post related to the same subject so im going to merge it into this one. We really need more info about what the actual problem is, and preferably a log and tune to help any further.
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@jdniss I think you should get your ECU back to Link for inspection, I suspect your MAP sensor is probably faulty, in your log the voltage on AN Volt 3 is a good 50mV or 10Kpa higher than it should be. Contact [email protected] to arrange.
@Brian B You shouldn't need to do any tricks like that with G4X as the offset is cleared everytime you do a cal. This was different in G4+ which could end up with a zero offset stored from a previous calibration that would cause subsequent cal to fail. So if a G4X doesnt pass MAP cal you either have a faulty sensor or an incorrect calibration set.
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You have used up your allowance, you can share a link using onedrive, google drive, dropbox or similar.
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I dont understand your question, the VVT control looks quite acceptable in this log, you are within <1° of target in most conditions.
What problem are you trying to solve?
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Use the alarms feature to turn on LED's. In this example below I would have #1 LED flashing red when Antilag or cyclic idle is active.
The status values arent very clear in the aim settings as they are only a maximum of 4 letters. So, this is what they mean:
- OFF = switched OFF
- A AL = Armed and antilag active.
- OFF2 = RPM is below 500.
- SA C = System armed, cyclic off.
- A CA = Armed and cyclic active.
- C C = Cyclic cooldown active.
- D CA = disarmed, cyclic active.
Another option you can use instead of the LED's is Icons on the screen, example below.
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The USDM denso pinout changed in 2011 so I think that is what you may have there. Get your dealer to get in touch with Link, they will possibly refund it.
I believe the >2011USDM pinout is quite different to the rest of the world, the only way to make it work would be to repin the harness or get someone to make an adapter loom.
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3 hours ago, Mekanic Caleb said:
So my sensor ground should only have all the sensors ground wires looped in but not grounded to any engine point, only back to the ecu?
Correct.
3 hours ago, Mekanic Caleb said:So I’m using the pinout on my link software where I do not see a 3S pin,
Clearer copy below.
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There is no factory oil pressure sensor. Most likely it has a pressure switch for the warning light. You will want to keep this for the light to warn the driver and add a pressure sensor, either by teeing into the same port or finding another.
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4 hours ago, Fintank11 said:
When I open the calibrate menu the car instantly shoots up to approx 3000 rpm before I make any adjustment but when I exit the menu it idles around 1100.
I assume you mean the set base timing tool? That would be expected behaviour because when you open that screen the timing is locked to whatever you have set in the "lock timing to" field at the top. The ecu can no longer control idle speed with ignition timing when you have locked the timing.
You didnt answer any of these:
22 hours ago, Adamw said:Do you have the timing light connected to an HT lead between the coil and spark plug? Is it a non-advance timing light? With the set base timing screen open so the timing is locked, if you rev the engine does the timing mark stay relatively still or does it drift off the mark significantly (say more than 3deg)? Are you hitting enter when you change the offset and the numbers turn blue?
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No thats not normal, it looks like it has had a mis-soldered component that eventually got bumped off. Contact [email protected] to get it replaced or fixed.
However, that missing cap is only part of the decoupling before the 5V regulator, it will not prevent the ecu from connecting or working, so I suspect this to be more a coincidence rather than your actual problem. We should do a bit more diagnosis first.
Do you have blue LED's glowing with the ecu plugged in and ignition on?
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They dont have oil pressure or coolant pressure connected to the ecu from factory. I don't even think they have an oil pressure gauge standard do they? Most likely you have an oil pressure switch for a warning lamp which is not much use for logging.
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Our internal notes list pins L, X, AB, AF & AJ as power grounds. Ideally these would all go to the same point on the engine somewhere, but if they are currently to separate points its not going to stop it from running.
3S is the crank sensor ground, and 3AB is the sensor ground for all other sensors.
Do the coils spark in test mode?
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A fuel map requires more resolution as there are often non-linear features and lumps and bumps in VE due to scavenging and resonance etc, you dont have any of these distortions for a target. In most cases you could probably get away with 6 cells or less for the target table.
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I would say the "stutter" is mostly the Limiter because the oil pump isn't working. It looks like it could do with richening up a bit - just increase the master fuel a little. Ignition timing needs to be checked.
Set up the staged injector sec/pri flow ratio as per the formula in the help file initially, but this will need proper testing under load to verify once you have the oil pump etc fixed.
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You should be able to order direct from Blink. Im not keen to attempt any more as I bricked the last one. Blink apparently recently changed the microprocessor on the 12button ones and they never mentioned the new micro is not compatible with the motorsport firmware when they gave it to me... It has to go all the way back to Italy to be fixed now.
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This would suggest the signal being received does not match the expected 60-2.
Can you reduce the arming threshold as suggested earlier. What sensor air gap do you have? Is the air gap reasonably uniform all the way around?
Can you unplug the ecu and tell me what resistance you have measuring between pin 7 & 8.
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15 hours ago, Brenmc said:
pin 8 and 9 / aux 5 and 6 have a resistance of 0.040
pin 21 and 22 / aux 7 and 8 have a resistance of 0.040
That would be a dead short, I would expect more like 30-50ohms. Are you measuring resistance between pin 8 & 9 with the ecu unplugged?
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If you are changing to a cable throttle you will no longer need an APS (pedal sensor), just a single TPS sensor on the throttle bodies. This can be connected to the original signal wires from the electronic throttle or you can connect to any other spare AN Volt input. In the software set E-throttle 1 mode to off and assign the Throttle position sensor source in the analog inputs menu.
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Firstly you have no cam sensor and are running wasted spark so 0 offset is the same as -360 or +360. So if it already runs with the offset at 0 then you should only need a small adjustment either side of zero to get the correct timing. Increasing the offset number will advance the spark and decreasing will retard.
Do you have the timing light connected to an HT lead between the coil and spark plug? Is it a non-advance timing light? With the set base timing screen open so the timing is locked, if you rev the engine does the timing mark stay relatively still or does it drift off the mark significantly (say more than 3deg)? Are you hitting enter when you change the offset and the numbers turn blue?
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Can you explain with a bit more detail, I dont understand the question well.
Are you using an Altezza plug-in ECU or a wire-in ecu? Are you fitting ITB's and you want them operated by an electronic throttle actuator?
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Yes I have seen this before just recently, it appears to be stiction/friction related where the TP is just sitting a little off target, but the throttle motor doesnt respond to a small change in DC. The integral continues to wind in more and more DC until all of a sudden it has enough torque to overcome the stiction so the TP does a big jump past target. Then the exact same happens again in the reverse direction trying to get back to target.
Good PID control generally relies on the process variable (TPS) to respond reasonably linearly to the control variable (motor DC), so you can see in your log pic below this is where the issue is coming from. Where my cursor is the TPS is 0.5% below target, motor DC is initially at -36.5%, the ecu increases DC all the way to about -17% with no TP movement at all, then suddenly with just the last couple of percent more DC, the TP jumps 1%, now above target.
I noticed this happening on one of our dyno engines a couple of weeks ago when I was at head office doing some testing so I played around with tuning and a few firmware strategies trying to solve it but run out of time without getting to the bottom of it. I initially thought it was the return spring "neutral position" that was causing it so got the firmware guys to code in a feed forward table etc with no improvement. More investigation showed it was actually well away from the neutral position. I was starting to suspect possibly there was some damage to the internal gears even though moving the blade by hand it felt reasonably smooth. It wasn't dismantlable so I haven't ruled that out yet. I have a few other ideas in the back of my mind but it adds tuning complication so I really need to rule out the mechanical possibilities then get a scope connected and spend a lot more time on it when I get the chance. Unfortunately that's not going to be for a while as I have a fair bit on at the minute.
I dont have a lot of good advice except try to get your normal warm idle outside of the TP range where this occurs. Change ignition timing and mixture etc to see if you can get it to idle with the TP half a % above or below this problem spot.
MAP calibration fails
in G4x
Posted
So what MAP sensor do you actually have?