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Posts posted by Adamw
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I would set up a new blank page in PC Link with a big digital gauge displaying AN Temp 3 raw voltage, sit the laptop somewhere you can see it then go around the loom and bend/wiggle/yank/stretch anything to do with the oil temp wiring - including where there may be ground splices and especially around the sensor connector and terminals etc. That will usually find if there is a bad connection anywhere. If that doesnt find anything then I would probably look at swapping the sensor next.
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On 7/16/2023 at 1:04 AM, Adamw said:
Can you do another short log with proportional gain at 5.00, integral gain at 0.50 and base duty at 55%.
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Closed loop is not active in any of your undershoot examples.
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The most common push/pull type I see used are Texense or KA Sensors.
Texense have a few variations with male or female threads and analog/digital output etc.
https://www.texense.com/en/products/pro-motorsport-sensors-1-1/gear-shift-devices-16/
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The CLL is not pulling much out in that area now so I dont think that is the remaining problem now. Im a bit unsure if the lean spike is now a cause or a symptom of the idle undershoot. What happens if you add say an extra 0.25-0.5% to the base position table for that temp?
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That will need a custom stream added. If you attach a copy of your tune and dash config I can set it up.
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In G4+ from memory only Aux 1-8 can do open or closed loop PWM FP speed. Aux 9-16 and inj/ign drives can only do x-over mode.
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It still looks like a wiring issue to me. Can you unplug the OBDlink from the OBD2 socket and measure the voltage between pin 5&6 and between pin 5&14 (with ECU on). Then, with ecu off can you measure resistance between pin 6&14.
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No, the TGV input is an analog input, you need a digital input for an ethanol sensor. You can connect the sensor directly to any DI without any need for any extra box.
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I have moved your post to the G4+ section. Please attach a copy of your tune and a log showing the problem.
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Im pretty sure the USDM cars changed to the Hitachi pinout in 2011, which is completely different to our ECU. It will likely be more than just the power wires that are different so it isnt really suitable.
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This is just a common "LS2 truck coil".
In most cases the grounding on these coils is not too fussy and you can just ground both A and B to the same point on the cylinder head. However to give a more complete explanation, I will add this info:
Pin A provides the high current ground for the primary side of the coil as well as the return for the spark to the secondary coil. So it is important that this is connected to the same cylinder head that the spark plug is sparking in and the wire is of adequate size to pass the current.
Pin B is a low current ground reference for the ignitor circuit, the original intent is that this pin should be connected to the same ground that the ecu ignition drive connects to when active, so that the coil signal wire sees the same voltage the ecu is outputting. In the Link ecu this is the main ECU ground. The ECU is typically grounded to the engine anyhow so this is often the same location as pin A.
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Both the crank and cam sensors are wired incorrect polarity, you need to swap the +/- wires at the sensor plugs.
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Your problem now is now just tuning. Your log shows you need 21.4% idle position to idle at the target speed, however your base position is 25% and you also have a dashpot offset of 5%, so as soon as you touch the throttle the idle vale opens to 30% which is too far open to allow the RPM to drop back under the lockout. Set the dashpot to zero initially, follow the instructions in the help file to tune the base position, then experiment with the dashpot if you have undershoot entering idle conditions.
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What specific coil are we talking about?
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Are you sure it is wired to CAN1? I notice you have the AEM device set up on both CAN1 and CAN2 in the ecu.
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The Atom doesnt do VVT control so you would need a Monsoon as a minimum.
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A high error on two temp sensors occurring at the same time would suggest a bad ground. Either a loose ground connection to the sensors somewhere or something like a bad engine ground so starter current is passing through ECU ground when cranking etc. Set up ECU logging to run all the time, recording the raw voltages on the temp pins as well as the bat voltage, temps, fault codes etc, then you will have a log saved in memory that you can download next time it happens.
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Have you tried using the same settings/profile as the gt86 with the link? Can you show us some pics of the wiring.
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The CLL functionality only allows either narrow band or wideband control, not both at the same time. The NB's would not be useful when there is positive pressure in the ex manifold anyhow. So if you want to do individual cyl control with sensors preturbo you will want pressure compensated widebands such as Link CAN lambdas.
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Lol, that's a little more than I was assuming. That's getting up there for sure, you might be pushing your luck even with R35 coils at more than 300Hp/cyl. Although im quite surprised the K series coil actually made it to that power level already. Are you running a 16V system? I assume now we are talking methanol, a very fat mixture and 50psi+. I would be leaning more towards an IGN1A for an application like that, as it would give you a bit more headroom for when things arent perfect - ie mixture goes a bit too rich or battery voltage drops etc.
I wouldnt put complete trust in the accuracy of the test results from PRP below but the general trend shown seems to fit with what I observe in everyday use. I would put the K20 denso somewhere between around number 8-12 in this list.
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Can you zero the CLL trim in the overrun/idle entry area to see if that helps the near stall.
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You need to hit enter after typing in the value, you should see it turn blue to show its been updated.
CAN data to external data logger, via OBD2 BT adapter
in G4x
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That all looks good to me. Nothing is leaping out at me yet. Can you attach a copy of your current tune.