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Adamw

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Posts posted by Adamw

  1. I would set up a new blank page in PC Link with a big digital gauge displaying AN Temp 3 raw voltage, sit the laptop somewhere you can see it then go around the loom and bend/wiggle/yank/stretch anything to do with the oil temp wiring - including where there may be ground splices and especially around the sensor connector and terminals etc.  That will usually find if there is a bad connection anywhere.  If that doesnt find anything then I would probably look at swapping the sensor next.

  2. This is just a common "LS2 truck coil".  

    In most cases the grounding on these coils is not too fussy and you can just ground both A and B to the same point on the cylinder head.  However to give a more complete explanation, I will add this info:

    Pin A provides the high current ground for the primary side of the coil as well as the return for the spark to the secondary coil.  So it is important that this is connected to the same cylinder head that the spark plug is sparking in and the wire is of adequate size to pass the current. 

    Pin B is a low current ground reference for the ignitor circuit, the original intent is that this pin should be connected to the same ground that the ecu ignition drive connects to when active, so that the coil signal wire sees the same voltage the ecu is outputting.  In the Link ecu this is the main ECU ground.  The ECU is typically grounded to the engine anyhow so this is often the same location as pin A.      

  3. Your problem now is now just tuning.  Your log shows you need 21.4% idle position to idle at the target speed, however your base position is 25% and you also have a dashpot offset of 5%, so as soon as you touch the throttle the idle vale opens to 30% which is too far open to allow the RPM to drop back under the lockout.  Set the dashpot to zero initially, follow the instructions in the help file to tune the base position, then experiment with the dashpot if you have undershoot entering idle conditions.  

    2Rrfmr8.png

  4. A high error on two temp sensors occurring at the same time would suggest a bad ground.  Either a loose ground connection to the sensors somewhere or something like a bad engine ground so starter current is passing through ECU ground when cranking etc.   Set up ECU logging to run all the time, recording the raw voltages on the temp pins as well as the bat voltage, temps, fault codes etc, then you will have a log saved in memory that you can download next time it happens.  

  5. Lol, that's a little more than I was assuming.   That's getting up there for sure, you might be pushing your luck even with R35 coils at more than 300Hp/cyl.  Although im quite surprised the K series coil actually made it to that power level already.  Are you running a 16V system?  I assume now we are talking methanol, a very fat mixture and 50psi+.  I would be leaning more towards an IGN1A for an application like that, as it would give you a bit more headroom for when things arent perfect - ie mixture goes a bit too rich or battery voltage drops etc.    

    I wouldnt put complete trust in the accuracy of the test results from PRP below but the general trend shown seems to fit with what I observe in everyday use.  I would put the K20 denso somewhere between around number 8-12 in this list.  

    UXJ8VpX.png

     

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