Adamw
-
Posts
21,144 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1,374
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Downloads
Posts posted by Adamw
-
-
It sounds like you should contact [email protected] to arrange getting it back for inspection. The test report for your serial number shows it was at least all working correctly when it left NZ warehouse in 2019 and they are pretty difficult to damage, so make sure you are as certain as can be that it is faulty before sending back. Generally, when they fail they will fail as a short to ground so the injector stays open, it is not impossible, but also not very common to fail as open circuit as you describe.
-
The Dash2 only talks to other race technology devices directly - not ECU's. So to display ECU data on the dash you will need a Race technology CAN adapter as well.
If you dont already own the Dash2, I would be a little hesitant to suggest one personally. Everyone I have set up has always been a big ball ache getting them to work, the config files they provide are usually all messed up, all sorts of bugs and odd behaviour, and their support is not very good. The Dash2pro was a much better dash and generally a lot less painful but still not as easy as more modern options.
Attached is a startup map I made that shouldn't be too far off.
-
It is basically an adapter loom for a wire-in type ECU. The G4X Xtreme or G4X Fury would be the two intended ECU options capable of running that engine.
-
-
Im 99% sure that would be for a 36-2 crank wheel with reluctor like a 1ZZ or 1JZ etc. The sub-board for the 24 tooth + 1 sync toyota dizzy type trigger would have a trigger micro labelled SUB24 or SUB24NEW. Basically the same board you have but with different firmware.
-
@Brian B I suspect in your case the built-in "Link 3 Bar" calibration in the firmware might be wrong. At least with the little bit of testing I done today I was getting low values reported by PC Link vs what I calculate from voltage using the manufacturer's transfer function. I just asked the Firmware team to confirm so I will come back to you when I have an answer.
-
If you want to extend the USB tuning cable you would be better to use a generic computer store "active USB extension cable". A standard passive USB cable signal degrades very quickly as length increases, usually about 2M max for USB2.0, whereas active cables can go out to about 20M.
-
In >fuel>fuel setup>Injector setup>injection setup, are all the P&H/saturated settings the same?
-
Can the throttle stop not just be closed a little more? The idle valve is fully closed so the ecu cant bring the RPM down any more. The cause of the "RPM hang" is at the beginning of the log you have idle ign active so that is pulling the RPM down close to target, after you blip the throttle then idle ign is disabled, the idle valve is already fully closed so the ecu cant do anything further.
The connector on the CAN cable is a JST XA series.
-
16 hours ago, DerekAE86 said:
I'm curious, what's the theory behind this test?
I suspect the unstable idle is possibly due to the SPWA as the lambda bounces up and down by a whole lot more than the reported effective PW. You can see his reported Eff PW is bouncing between about 0.5 and 0.6mS (this reported value doesnt include SPWA). If the injector was perfectly linear then 0.6ms would be 20% more fuel than 0.5ms. If you add the SPWA figures on to that - at 0.5PW the SPWA is -0.066 and at 0.625PW the SPWA is +0.046 so you actually end up with a final PW of 0.434ms for the commanded 0.5 and final of 0.646 for the 0.6 commanded, or you could say 48% extra fuel/PW. Obviously those adders are there to compensate for an injector that is not perfectly linear, but perhaps those or the deadtimes are wrong and therefore adding or removing fuel where it doesnt need to be.
For the wall wetting I know it is disabled during start up so it is unlikely but I thought there could potentially be something triggering it either at shutdown or shortly after starting that causes the flooding.
-
The main fan will run at full speed when above the enable temperature with the base map settings. I will attach an example of how to do speed control below.
Change Engine fan 1 output to a virtual aux, enable a GP PWM and set its output to aux 1 with active state high. Use the virtual aux as the Sw parameter - (so the fan will still turn on/off based on the "Engine Fan 1" temperature setting and hysteresis). The stock ecu uses 3900Hz.
Then in your PWM DC table you can set it up to vary speed however you like (100% = full speed, and I suggest you dont go lower than 25%). In my example I have ECT on one axis and AC request on the other, so at 88°C the fan will run at 25% speed with AC off or 60% with AC on and the fan speed will ramp up if ECT continues to rise.
-
-
The settings in your map dont appear to match the log you have posted but Deondre has the main problem covered, the MAP lockout is too low so idle control isnt even working.
The log shows base position was 36% but the base position in your map is set to 60%, idle target is 850RPM in the log Vs 1000RPM in the map. It looks like your base position needs to be around 40% for 850RPM.
-
With innovate controllers the sensor usually hasnt failed, they just refuse to work when the frequency response gets slower. If you get error 2 or error 8 the sensor is likely still perfectly fine and will work with any other wideband controller, if you haven't thrown away already, save them as spares for when you have a decent controller.
Innovate determine oxygen content by driving the sensor completely differently than they were ever designed to be, rather than measuring the actual pump current required to keep the nerst cell near stoich they instead drive the pump at full current all the time, continuously bouncing current backward and forwards, then use the resulting duty cycle to derive how rich or lean it was. This can give very fast response and works fine when the sensor is new, clean, and its temperature is relatively stable, but age, temperature and deposits effect the timing a lot so the controller then justs reports the sensor has failed if it takes too long to see the response it expects.
-
Unfortunately I think this would suggest you have an internal hardware issue. I just checked on a Storm here and I get 120ohm across those 2 pins. It's pretty odd as the CAN is tested as part of its burn-in test and they are usually pretty indestructable. Possibly just a rare failure. You will have to contact [email protected] to get it inspected.
-
Can you also check resistance directly on the ecu pins B27/28. With Ign off.
-
Can you attach a copy of your tune so I can see the voltage, pressure and BAP being reported. How old is it? Is it one of the current models in the black billet case like below?
-
Only 1 fan is connected to the fan control module capable of speed control (Aux 1), the condenser fan (Ign 4) is just connected to a standard relay, it operates as a single speed only (the factory ecu could switch between 2 speeds on the condenser fan). In our base map the main fain is just set up as on/off, not speed controlled.
-
14 hours ago, Skeeed3r said:
which Protocoll i need ? CanOpen or J1939
The motorsport version is neither. Manual attached.
An example map attached, this was for a 4 button keypad, the 4 button statuses are received as CAN Dig 1-4. Button 1-3 are latched action, button 4 is momentary. Flashing LED when button 2 is on, solid LED's on the others.
Some adjustments you can make:
G4+ with 4 button blink motorsport keypad.pclr PKP2200SI_MS_UM_REV1.2.pdf
-
Is it a cable throttle and 4 wire stepper IAC?
-
Most plug-in ecu's dont have the high side drives on aux 5-8, so they will not have enough grunt to drive a relay high. You will need to change the wiring so that the ecu is switching the ground side of the relay coil.
-
As a test, try turning off wall wetting compensation and zero out the short PW adder table.
-
The link is restricted, go back into the sharing settings and set it to "anyone with link".
-
On the front side of ECU B plug, can you see both terminals are visible through the holes - ie pushed all the way home?
With the ignition off, and CAN lambda unplugged from the CANSS cable, do you get about 120ohms if you measure resistance between white and green at the DTM plug?
MAP calibration fails
in G4x
Posted
@Brian B We looked at this closer today. There is a bit of error at the high end of the calibration range but it is much less significant than I first thought and im not sure if it is enough to cause your calibration issue. I notice your 5V output is sitting a little lower than normal too which may be some of the error.
Can you try a custom linear cal like below to see if it passes MAP cal with this. If it doesnt can you go around and unplug a few of your other sensors to see if the 5V output voltage gets closer to 5.00V (it was reading 4.96V when your map was last saved).