Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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You only get a limited attachment allowance, you can share the file using onedrive/google drive/dropbox or similar
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Your APS is still showing 1.1% in that log. I wonder if there is a maybe ground issue causing the APS voltage to change a little when the engine is running. Can you do another log, but this time start the log recording before you start the engine, then start the engine and continue logging for say a further 20 secs. Attach log and your most recent tune.
You can temporarily set your idle control APS/TPS lockout to 2% for now so idle control works, it would just be better to get that smaller for drivability.
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I would bridge direct to the ground pin in the expansion connector with a paperclip or similar to rule out the ground and wire.
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The idle APS lockout is the value of pedal position that is used to determine if the engine is idling or not. This is a fixed value that you set and should be around 1%. It has nothing to do with calibrating the sensor.
You need to calibrate the actual pedal position sensor as I suggested above. The APS should read 0% when your foot is off the pedal and 100% when you press the pedal to the floor. Yours is currently reading 1.1% when your foot is off so idle is never going to work.
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You havent calibrated your APS, it is still showing 1.1% at rest, it should be zero.
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Ok, the problem is the idle control integral is too high, but it also looks like your APS hasn't been calibrated, so you should first do that and a TPS cal.
In E-throttle settings, set e-throttle mode to set-up mode. Go to >E-throttle 1>Throttle position sensor and run through the calibration, then go to >accelerator position sensor and do its calibration. Set E-throttle mode back to On when done. Do a store.
Go to idle speed control and change the APS lockout to 1.0% and the integral gain to 0.05.
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That should work. So you are just touching the DI8 and ground wire on the expansion loom together? What function is the DI set to?
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I suggest returning it to Link. It still has a warranty and will likely be a free repair provided it is not damaged due to some misuse. They are difficult to replace without damage to surrounding components and depending on the specific hardware versions they may replace them all. After repair it will be run through the same production testing as a brand new ecu to ensure everything is operating within spec and calibrated, as well as re-conformal coating etc.
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I cant see how a diode would achieve anything.
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A injector output is low-side drive with no pull-up resistor, possibly your autometer tach had a pull-up resistor built-in and the TCM doesn't.
Normal aux outputs have pull-up resistors built-in, Inj auxes and Ign auxes dont.
So you could either add an external pull-up resistor into the wiring, or you could move your tacho wire to Aux 2 or 3. The CE light would work fine connected to Inj 5.
This is how you would wire an external pull-up:
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Is it a supra plug-in? Do you have anything plugged into the CAN 1/RS232 port? Do you have a Link ecu showing in windows device manager when the USB cable is plugged in?
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In G4+ plug-in ecu's the E-throtttle frequency was fixed at 500Hz. In G4+ wire-in ecu's that have onboard e-throttle control the frequency is adjustable.
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4 hours ago, truekid said:
Not sure what I did, but I added parameters to stream one which was ethanol and boost target.
You should not even have a stream 1 turned on as I showed in my picture above.
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The cluster gets its speed from the ecu, not the abs. Is driven wheel speed reading correctly in the ecu software now?
Can you attach your most recent tune.
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32 minutes ago, jnfurniss said:
I don't really have a tune other than the base tune that is installed on the ECU.
That's what I want, the tune file from your ecu and a log.
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Do a short PC log showing the behaviour and attach that and a copy of your tune here.
Have you tried adjusting the master fuel?
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18 hours ago, jnfurniss said:
My car will idle for 5-10 seconds and then dies because the goes to about -55 MGP (kPa) of 45.9-46.3 at about 600rpm. I can hold the rpms steady around 800 and make adjustments on the mixture table, but I feel like I am missing something.
Sounds like not enough fuel. Have you adjusted the master fuel? Attach a log and your tune.
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On 7/9/2023 at 7:34 AM, AGalecki said:
It was just easier for TPS since it shows right in the window. The help section just says to set them and appears that the Analog window is the best place to get the values.
Hit F12 and go to the analog tab of the runtimes screen.
On 7/9/2023 at 7:34 AM, AGalecki said:Is there something wrong when there is a light humm from the Throttle body when it is powered on?
It is normal. If it bothers you you can set the "run when stalled" mode to quiet which turns the throttle motor off when the engine isn't running.
On 7/9/2023 at 7:34 AM, AGalecki said:For the APS, I matched the Main and Sub to the voltages on the matching AN voltages, is it over closing and being damaged?
You might have to reword this, not sure what you are asking.
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If you load the supplied 1920 x 1080 or the 1366 x 766 layouts they were made by me based mostly on how my own laptop was setup. Everybody does things a bit differently though, im mostly tuning fuel and ign steady state on a dyno, someone road tuning fuel for example would probably use a mixture map page more or a separate page with a timeplot and fuel table together to tune from logs using the quick trim function.
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On 7/4/2023 at 11:51 AM, Timboj said:
I guess the remaining question there is why the hard limit at 25kph? I'd like to see a little higher as an upper limit as it's not unusual for me to be in neutral just above this speed when approaching a stop, but the dashpot is keeping the RPM above idle until I slow down enough.
Generally you dont want the ecu to control idle while the car is moving. The problem with having the idle control activating at a higher speed is when you are coasting in overrun (in gear etc), the wheels are driving the engine, the ecu can not control the engine speed by closing the throttle. So what happens is the ecu sees the RPM is above target so it closes the throttle more and more and retards the ignition trying to bring it down to target, but this has little effect since the car is driving the engine. As soon as you push in the clutch the wheels are no longer holding the RPM up, and because the throttle is now way too closed the engine instantly stalls.
It is not too common to shift to neutral during overrun so it is not something I have had to consider much. I dont really see it being an issue if the idle was a little high when coasting in neutral?
Its hard to tell much from your log without knowing what the driver was doing etc, but the common theme I see in it is you get a big undershoot when approaching idle then it bounces quite a bit higher than target. I think the undershoot is probably coming from over-run fuel cut and retard. Try turning that off or setting its deactivation say 500RPM higher so that is not interfering while you experiment with dashpot and idle approach.
Note the 350Z does have the clutch and brake switch wired in series to DI6 (used for cruise cancel) so you may be able to use that to add some further logic. Your neutral switch doesnt show any change of state in your log so im not sure it maybe it is only auto's that have that or if it isn't setup correctly.
For the accel fuel I think it may need higher sensitivity in the cells 2000RPM and below, and probably a bit more cold correction in the 40-60°C area.
- castillaricardo and Timboj
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The Ign Sw input is a safety thing so is purely hardware, no software involved in its function. It is high impedance though so only needs a couple of mA to activate.
In lowside drive mode the ecu aux outputs 1-16 are pulled up to 12V. So just set the aux 9 active state to high and it will activate the PDM Ign sw input no drama.
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I've moved your post to the G4X section.
Can you attach a copy of the tune as well. Have you set base timing and adjusted the master fuel?
6 hours ago, TCB91SX said:and it is an AEM IAT set up under the Delphi calibration, is this correct ?
Yes both of the common AEM IAT sensors use the delphi cal.
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13 hours ago, Zealou5 said:
But in the pinout diagram it just seems to list it as the ECCS relay not also the coil pack relay earth.
Yeah most RB25's dont even have that ign relay, but RB26's do just like what you have here, so just the diagram doesnt quite match your car, it appears to be wired how I would expect though.
10 hours ago, Zealou5 said:So i checked the voltage between pin 16 (as the earth) and pin 45. And there is a small amount of voltage almost negligible maybe? (see attached pic).
What I actually wanted is a voltage measurement on each pin separately. So multimeter black wire to a good chassis ground, multimeter red wire to pin 16, note down voltage, then multimeter red to pin 45, note voltage. And preferably do these measurements when it is not shutting down properly - ie ign switch is off but relays etc are still staying on.
Link G4+ ecu not resetting the ECCS and coil pack relay earths on ignition off?
in G4+
Posted
Pin 16 is not controlled by the ecu, it is a simple FET circuit on the adapter board that just grounds pin 16 when pin 45 has ign signal on it. This is why I want to know the voltages so we can determine which side the issue is coming from. Most likely it is something that has been wired to the ign switch circuit holding pin 45 high.
I cant imagine any scenario that the diode will solve. 1 side of the relay coil's should go straight to battery live. The other side to pin 16. For the relay to energise the ecu has to ground pin 16 so current flows from the battery, through the relay coil and back to ground. A diode is basically a "one way valve", so the only way the diode could work was if the current was somehow reversed when you switched off ignition - that would mean the relay coil would have to be disconnected from the battery and connected to ground instead and the ecu would have to be sending voltage out of pin 16 (there is no internal path from pin 16 to battery). The only explanation I can think of would be either the relays arent engaging at all now and instead everything is being powered up by a back feed through something else, or there is something else besides the ecu controlling the pin 16 wire, or those relays have been rewired so the 12+ supply side is not connected straight to battery anymore.